Nong Kiaow

Nong Kiaow

Not too surprisingly, dining in Nong Kiaow is limited with most restaurants serving generic Western fare and Lao staples toned-down for tourist tastes. Most restaurants are attached to a guesthouse, but there are a couple notable exceptions.

Formerly Vinat Restaurant, Deen's specialises in Indian food and, oddly, Malaysian-style fried rice and noodles. We ordered a mix of veg and meat curries and, while yummy, the different dishes came out tasting pretty similar. Still, Deen adds some much welcomed variety to the Nong Khiaow dining scene and prices are very reasonable (10,000 kip and up for veg dishes, 20,000 and up for meat).

Opposite Deen's is Vongmany, a long-running restaurant with a big menu of generic Asian and Western fare plus a small book exchange. Cold beer and an array of cocktails make Vongmany a popular spot after dark when it's lit up with paper lanterns.

Though it's one of the newest spots in town, Delilah's has shot to popularity with its specialty coffees and delicious baked goods, such as bagels and pies. Close to the bus station and boat landing, it's a great spot for a light meal plus sells packaged Lao lunches for takeaway.

Another spot near the bus station is Nong Khiaw Bar Restaurant. Most of their business seems to be takeaway drinks and ice cream from the coolers in front, but their menu includes some tasty vegetarian fare on top of the usual rice and noodle dishes. With great prices and plenty of tourism info, this place is a good stop on your way into town.

For a seriously cheap meal, look for the Vegetarian Buffet near Le Cinema that starts up around 18:00. For only 10,000 kip you get a selection of fried noodles, rice, pumpkin curry and stir-fried veggies. The sign claims the buffet is daily, but this is only true during high season.

Of the guesthouse restaurants, CT Restaurant is better than most with baguette sandwiches, pizza, Western breakfasts and generic Asian fare. It's no JoMa Cafe, but their baking — chocolate brownies, cinnamon rolls — are pretty good. There's a small book exchange, sundries, and a rack of dusty bottles of wine and Lao spirits.

Sunset Restaurant does up some of the most authentic Lao dishes in town like spicy salads and stews plus, as the name suggests, it has unbeatable views in the early evening. You also might be able to surf the internet as you enjoy your meal: ask the owner Church if it's working.

The most expensive hotel in town also has one of the best restaurants, and River Side Resort delights the palate with traditional Lao dishes like coconut-milk curries and rich pumpkin soup, or Western selections like pastas and toasted baguette sandwiches. The setting is particularly lovely perched on a deck overlooking the river and the house wine hits the spot both in terms of taste and price. Meals are served during set times, but drinks and internet access (PCs or WiFi) are available 7:00-22:00.

CT Restaurant: Southeast side of bridge on the river. T: (071) 252 919. Open daily 07:00-22:00.
Nong Khiaw Bar Restaurant West side of bridge on the main road. T: (071) 253 933 Open daily 07:00-20:00.
Nong Kiau River Side Resort Northeast side of bridge on the river. T: (020) 570 5000 Open daily 07:00-22:00.
Deen's Restaurant East side of bridge on main road. T: (020) 214 8895. Open daily 08:00-23:00.
Vongmany Restaurant East side of bridge on main road. T: (020) 244 4132. Open daily 07:00-23:00.
Vegetarian Buffet Near Le Cinema 18:00-20:00. No phone