Phonsavan

Phonsavan

The menu is limited at Keo Kong. The laap has a little kick and a lot of zest, the spring rolls are fresh and tasty, and the curry is creamy with well balanced flavours. The atmosphere is pretty cool, with a wooden balcony in the front garden offering cushion seating on the floor. Old bomb casings and war remnants decorate the garden, and one particularly large example serves as the fireplace for a small open fire on busy evenings. At night they often screen a documentary about the war and its effects, particularly focusing on the local devastation. It's a good place to meet other backpackers, particularly if you're looking to join a group tour of the Plain of Jars the next day.

At the top of the T-intersection, next to and associated with Saing Tavanh Guesthouse, sits the Saing Tavanh Restaurant. It's a largish place: a mix of family home and working restaurant. The menu is extensive, with plenty of variety and lots of very Lao dishes. The menu even includes fresh cow dung, beef with pickled eel and the local speciality of swallows served baked, fried or stewed. Plenty of food more palatably described is also available. Particularly good is the stir-fried asparagus, and the tom yum, although the vegetable spring rolls are a little disappointing. Worth a try -- at least for a look at the bottles of rice whisky lining the walls, all filled with different health-giving herbs.

Opening early and serving the best western breakfast in town, Craters Pub and Restaurant offers an extensive western and Lao menu. There are also Thai favourites which are well cooked. Located next to the MAG museum/information point, this central location means that Craters sees a great deal of trade. The craters theme runs through the entire bar, from the large bomb shells at its entrance to the photo history on the walls of mine clearing in and around the area. Prices are reasonable, but a little higher than shop restaurants in the neighbourhood; however the food is served to a high quality. Give the burgers a miss, they were the one blot on the gourmet palette.

The Phonsavan nightclub is an enigma on the world club scene; it has been through so many incarnations that it isn't really sure what kind of club it is. Currently it is a jack of all trades, offering live bands, western style DJ music and a karaoke of sorts. Located on the edge of town, but well within walking distance, the music is ear splittingly loud, the clientele are Phonsavan's bright, young things and the drinks prices are reasonable (for a late night venue). It opens at 20:00 and shuts between 01:00 and 02:00. It will delight some, bemuse a few and annoy others, you pays your money, you makes your choices...