Eat and meet

Vientiane

The restaurant and bar scene in Vientiane has positively blossomed in the last couple of years. While the traditional tourist places continue to do good business, smart Western bars and cafes are cropping up all over town and attract a regular local crowd. Most are open all day, have a good selection of food and make for a great place to meet people and relax. For traditional French cuisine, Vientiane has so many places to choose from that it's almost impossible to decide, but a number of good options are clustered around Namphu fountain.

Cafes and bakeries
The Scandinavian Bakery is almost an institution in Vientiane and is particularly busy at breakfast and lunch. The small terrace outside is a lovely place to sit and watch the world go by and the noticeboards are full of useful information. Prices are reasonable and there are newspapers to read, and the upstairs area has cable TV and a less crowded dining area.

Joma Bakery and Cafe is another incredibly popular place to eat and has a large downstairs seating area as well as a room upstairs. They offer a great selection of fresh cakes, salads, pizza slices and build-your-own sandwiches. Newspapers and magazines are available to read and WiFi internet access costs 25,000 kip per hour. Le Banneton is another great place for both breakfast and lunch. Their pastries are fantastic and their baguettes are the real deal -- crispy-chewy outside, soft inside. Their panini sandwiches are the best in town and the French country ambience with plank wood floors, exposed beams, and jazzy music encourages lingering.

Lastly Le Croissant d'Or is a lovely little cafe just across the road from the side entrance to Wat Mixay. It has a decent choice of set breakfasts and some delicious cakes and pastries. A conservatory room is located at the back where there is also small open courtyard. The cafe sells a range of local Lao coffee, preserves and honey.

The Scandinavian Bakery - 74/1 Pangkham Rd T: (021) 215 231 Open daily 07:00 - 21:00.
Joma Bakery and Cafe - Setthatilath Rd (opposite Khop Chai Deu). T: (021) 215 265. Open daily 07:00 - 21:00.
Le Banneton Nokeo Koummane Rd. Tel: (021) 217 321 Open Mon-Sat 7:00-19:00, Sun 7:30-13:30
Le Croissant d'Or - Nokeo Koummane Rd. T: (021) 223 741. Open daily 07:00 - 20:00.

Western and international restaurants
Restaurant Le Provencal is an excellent restaurant offering some fine cuisine at midrange prices. The steak is superior and the pizza superb. They also serve bruschetta and some typical pasta dishes. If you want to splurge on a non-Lao meal this is a good choice.

Le Cote d'Azur is a smart, slightly upmarket French restaurant right on the riverfront serving a large range of authentic French cuisine as well as pizzas and pasta. Specialities include rabbit stew, duck and Provencal-style seafood. Good service and a lovely setting.

Dao Fa Bistro is a large cafe/bistro serving much more formal meals than its neighbour, Joma. The roomy interior opens onto a small terrace on the main road and the decor is smart and modern. The menu is fairly standard but they do serve up some wonderful healthy and hearty breakfasts. Happy hour every evening sees cocktails at half price, though they're about twice what you'd pay elsewhere to begin with.

Xayoh is a trendy pizzeria and bistro that also serves a handful of Lao and Thai dishes. The setting is lovely, but the menu is generic. This is a popular place for an afternoon jug of beer or two and a fairly good hangout come the evening.

Directly opposite sits the Lotus Restaurant -- a stylish international restaurant with a lovely atmosphere and dining available over two floors of a French colonial. Unlike many others, they do make an effort to offer some good Lao specialities.

One of the newer places in town is the Dok Champa, which has some lovely intimate private dining rooms as well as seating in a small garden. While most of the menu comprises a good selection of Lao food, they also serve up some Russian, Korean and Western dishes. The upstairs area has a beer terrace and a pool room as well as some more private dining areas.

For mediocre Mexican -- but hey, it's Mexican -- Tex-Mex Alexia offers the standard burrito-enchilada-fajita menu along with some not-quite-so-Mexican choices like pizzas and spaghetti. The live music is mellow during daylight hours and hopping at night.

For a traditional upscale French menu, Le Central serves the plats du jour in a quaint and tranquil setting that manages to feel both cosy and sophisticated. Prices are a little high, but they do offer a set menu for lunch that is quite a deal.

For charming ambience and an Asian-inspired French fusion menu, Le Grillon cooks up sweet and savoury pizzas, delectable soups, and an array of entrees accompanied by the requisite glass(es) of wine, of course. It's close to the French cultural centre, so swing by after catching a movie for a truly a la mode night.

Dao Fa Bistro - Setthatilath Rd. Open: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 23:00. Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
Dok Champa - Chao Anou Rd (opposite the Lao Orchid Hotel). Open daily: 11:00 - 23:00.
Le Central 077/8 Setthatirath Rd. T: (021) 2443 703. Open daily: 10:30-14:00 and 18:00-22:00.
Le Cote d'Azur - 62/63 Fa Ngum Rd. T: (021) 217 252. Open: Mon - Sat 11:00 - 14:00 and 17:30 - 23:00. Sun 17:30 - 23:00.
Le Grillion Lane Xang Ave.
Lotus Restaurant - Corner of Nokeo Koummane and Hengboun Rds. Open daily: 08:00 - 23:00.
Restaurant Le Provencal - by the Namphu fountain. T: (021) 219 685. Open daily 11:30 - 22:00.
Tex-Mex Alexia Fa Ngum Rd. T: (021) 241 349. Open daily, 9:00-23:00.
Xayoh - Corner of Nokeo Koummane and Samsenthai Rds. Open daily 08:00 - 23:00.

Lao and Thai restaurants
One of the few places to occupy a lovely restored colonial house, Kua Lao may be a bit on the pricey side but you do get music and dance performances as part of the deal. Most diners tend to come in large groups for the entertainment and the kitchen offers quite a decent range of Thai food as well.

Vilaylac is set in a charming traditional Lao house and serves Lao and Thai dishes, though watch out for their daily specials of fresh fish.

Makphet hires and trains former Lao street youth in the tricks of the restaurant trade. As if that wasn't enough to lure you in, the food is delicious and among the many Lao contemporary favourites are Lao style buffalo and potato curry, spiced Lao pork sausages, and grilled tomato, mushroom, and eggplant dips served with sticky rice. After dinner, check out their craft shop, Noi Noi, upstairs.

For a more elegant experience, Amphone, set in an absolutely gorgeous indoor/outdoor space, also serves contemporary Lao cuisine. The space in and of itself is reason enough to go, but fortunately the food delivers and an evening here is well-spent savouring dishes and lolling up the atmosphere. Amphone offers a few versions of a tasting menu that serve as a great introduction to Lao food.

Fa Ngum Rd is home to quite a few Lao/Thai restaurants such as The Shade, which attract a constant stream of travellers looking for some inexpensive but reasonable food. There's not really much to choose between them -- the food is decent enough and they're all open early for breakfast baguettes and coffee from around 07:00 right through the day till around 22:00 or 23:00.

Finally, there is a vegetarian buffet in an unnamed place across from the Cultural Centre that serves heaps of Lao, Thai, Chinese, and Indian favourites.

Amphone - On the small road beside Jazzy brick. Unit 37 Ban Xieng Gneun. T: (020) 771 1138. Open daily 12:00-14:00 and 18:00-22:00.
Kua Lao - 111 Samsenthai Rd. T: (021) 215 777 Open daily: 11:00 - 14:00 and 19:00 - 22:30.
Makphet - On the street behind Wat Ong Teu (parallel to Sethathirat Rd and the Mekong River front) T: (021) 260 587. Open daily 11:00-21:00.
Saovaly - Manthatulath Rd. T: (021) 214 940. Open daily: 11:00 - 14:00 and 17:00 - 22:00.
Vilaylac - On the road behind Wat Ong Teu. T: (021) 222 049. Open daily 08:00 - 22:30.

Vietnamese and Indian restaurants

Cheap and cheerful Indian restaurant Nazim is one more in this chain of restaurants in Laos. The menu offers standard inexpensive Indian fare, has quite a good range of food to choose from, especially for vegetarians, and the staff are generally attentive. This is a popular choice and the tables outside are probably best as the inside dining area can lack a bit of atmosphere at times. A second franchise now occupies the former spot of Just For Fun.

The ever popular PVO has moved from its city centre location to occupy the only permanent structure on this part of the embankment. It often gets quite full, especially at lunchtimes, when students come to enjoy the good, cheap Vietnamese food. The office next door rents out motorbikes, including some off-road models.

Cafe Indochine is probably one of the smartest Vietnamese restaurants in Vientiane, set in an old building on this busy road but beautifully decorated and oozing style. Daily specials are marked up on the board outside. Though it might be a bit pricier than most, it's definitely worth considering.

Rashmi's Indian Fusion combines the strange-sounding mix of Indian and Chinese cuisines, but somehow pulls it off. The restaurant upstairs is spacious and sleek and the floor-to-ceiling windows offer some picturesque views, though mostly of the Lao Plaza Hotel. Their daily lunch buffet from 11:30 to 14:30 is a great way to sample the goods.

Cafe Indochine - 199 Setthatilath Rd. T: (021) 216 758. Open daily 10:30 - 22:30.
Nazim - Fa Ngum Rd (next to Orchid Guesthouse). Open daily: 10:30 - 22:30.
PVO - Riverfront promenade (opposite BCEL exchange booth). Open: Mon to Sat 06:00 - 20:00. Sun 06:00 - 15:00.
Rashmi's Indian Fusion - 316 Smasenthai Rd. T: 021 251 513. Open daily

Noodles, baguettes, shakes and Vietnamese
On the small road leading out the back of Namphu lie a handful of local eateries specialising in noodle soup, with kitchens out front and seating inside. They have menus in English also listing dishes such as hot basil with pork and a variety of rice and noodle dishes. The food is fine and well-priced at around 10,000 kip a dish. Just a few years ago, this was the only kind of restaurant available in most Lao towns. Around the corner to the right on Samsenthai Rd, a tiny row of shops whip up a range of huge delicious baguettes for 8,000 to 14,000 kip. Choose your baguette size and fillings and eat there or take away. You'll also find a couple of brilliant shops selling fruit shakes, including the excellent Great Fruit Shake Shop.

The banks of the Mekong
Frequent visitors to Laos are often surprised to find that their favourite, hastily cobbled together bamboo and plastic sheeting bar on the riverside has disappeared. Spates of temporary bar building are not uncommon but these unattractive places don't really add to the views and every so often the government insists that they are removed. However, given that the banks of the mighty Mekong make for a great place to sit and have a beer and a snack, you will invariably still find plenty of tables, chairs, barbecues and umbrellas hastily assembled just before sundown and then all neatly stacked away at around 22:00, stretching from the PVO building right up to the end of Fa Ngum Rd. They are a brilliant place to spend an hour or two and nearly all serve tasty barbecued fish, chicken, spicy papaya salad and sticky rice. This is a must-do Lao experience.

Bars
Sticky Fingers is a groovy little bar/restaurant on a sidestreet off the Mekong. The menu is varied, featuring mostly gourmet Western dishes with an array of ingredients not commonly found in the region. The food is expensive by local standards, but it's worth it. Try the antipasto, delicious dips, salmon steak or one of their yummy pastas. They also have weekly specials, and a hangover breakfast with or without a Bloody Mary. This very cool and relaxed place owned by two Australian women also has happy hour cocktails on Wednesday and Friday evenings that are not to be missed -- be sure to try the Som Tam Martini.

Another fun spot is Martini Lounge which occupies the space of the former Chicago Bar. On the ground floor, comfy chairs encourage lounging and a long bar lined with chic stools is stocked with all the favourites. Upstairs, a spacious mixed media space is used for mingling most nights but can be rented out for parties should you have that many travelling friends. Their Monday and Wednesday happy hour from 18:00-19:30 features two-for-one cocktails. Every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, movies are screened upstairs at 20:00 and on Thursdays, salsa lessons and dancing could add some spice to your stay.

Your afternoon is at risk in the almost legendary bar of Khop Chai Deu next to the fountain. Happy Hour every day till 20:00 means very cheap pitchers of beer'. The restaurant, set in a lovely French colonial building, boasts an extensive menu divided into Lao Traditional Cuisine -- Luang Prabang sausage, roasted chicken and Sindad; Backpacker's Experience -- fried rice and stir-fries; and Expatriate's Relief -- spaghetti, burgers and steak. They also serve Chinese, Italian and Indian food, all ferried in discreetly from other restaurants. Their tasting menu is a great way to sample a variety of Lao specialties all at once and even includes a glass of lao lao. The terrace outside is a wonderful place to while away a few hours and they often show sport on the TVs above the outside bar. Opposite Khop Chai Deu is also the pick up point for the Sabaidee Bus, which travels between Vientiane and Bangkok.

Full Moon Cafe is a great place to relax and attracts a regular crowd. The contemporary design, soft seating and good music add to the chilled ambience and the staff are excellent. Happy hours every day offer two for the price of one on standard cocktails and pitchers of beer, and the restaurant serves some splendid Asian and Western food at very reasonable prices.

Spirit House is one of the more upscale cocktail bars in Vientiane and without a doubt, one of the most sophisticated places yet. The interior is beautifully designed in rich, warm hardwoods to set a very peaceful and relaxed scene. They pride themselves on their cocktails which include some wonderful Scandinavian vodka concoctions as well as more familiar mixes. They also offer a range of tapas and sandwiches as well as meals such as steaks and burgers which can be eaten inside or on the small, rather hastily put together terrace right on the river's edge.

Jazzy Brick is another bar that buys into the trend toward a more sophisticated drinking experience. Situated fairly close to Nam Phu Fountain, it features a sleek interior with a mix of dark wood and -- what else? -- exposed brick. The rather strict house rules -- no shorts or singlets are allowed -- may deter some, but those who go are bound to have a more grown-up night then they've had in ages.

Sala Sunset Khouta remains one of the most popular of the scores of ramshackle riverside bars along the Mekong from the start of the dirt road. The rickety wooden platforms are set over the edge of the embankment and afford some lovely views of the river, especially as the sun is setting. This is a great place to wind down after a hard day's sightseeing.

Full Moon Cafe - Francois Nginn Rd (next to Sticky Fingers). T: (021) 243 373. Open: Mon to Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
Jazzy Brick - 47/1 Setthathilat Rd, Vientiane. T: (020) 771 1138. Open Daily, 18:00-late.
Khop Chai Deu - Setthatilath Rd (next to Namphu fountain). Open daily 10:00 - 23:30.
Martini Lounge - 96 Noeokumane Rd, Vientiane. T: (020) 752 9638. Open Mon-Sat, 18:00-01:30; Happy Hour Mon-Wed 18:00-19:30; Salsa Lessons: Thu 20:00-21:30
Sala Sunset Khouta - Fa Ngum Rd (right at the end of the dirt road after The Spirit House). Open daily: 11:00 - 22:00.
Spirit House - Fa Ngum Rd (continue on the embankment along the dirt road). Open daily: 07:00 - 00:00. http://www.thespirithouselaos.com
Sticky Fingers - 10/3 Francois Nginn Rd. T: (021) 215 972. Open: Tue to Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon.