Region: Central Region> Province: Central Area> Location: Arab Street and Bugis
Arab Street, Bugis and Bencoolen
Arab Street
You'll never go hungry in Arab Street or its vicinity. Famous Islamic and Zam Zam restaurants on North Bridge Road, across from the Sultan Mosque, are veritable institutions of Singapore Indian Muslim cuisine. The former known for its briyani, and the latter for its roti prata and murtabak (try the mutton murtabak!). On Bussorah Street (street leading from the boulevard of the Sultan Mosque) alone, Malay food such as mee soto and nasi goreng at the Kampong Glam Cafe is cheap and comforting, while Alaturka serves up authentic Turkish, and next door at B Bakery wonderful mains and pastries are available in a modern Aussie-style cafe (try the strawberry shortcake, lemon tart meringue, sticky buns and sticky date cakes); numerous vegetarian items should keep vegetarians happy. A must try: teh tarik (milk tea, 'pulled') from an unnamed drinks stall on Baghdad Street, across from the Kampong Glam Cafe.
Arab Street proper is where the action first began at Cafe le Caire (also known as Al-Majlis), where shisha and exemplary Arab cuisine go hand in hand.
Haji Lane behind Arab Street is the hippest alternative playground for the city's youth. Think chilled out cafes right by Egyptian restaurants, bars that double up as indie cinemas, and fashion boutiques that also sell great ice cream. Al-Tazzag does reasonably good Egyptian at reasonable prices, the shwarma, babaganoush, kebabs, and mixed platters are good value. Sit outdoors on a rug by the alley smoking your shisha while Egyptian music pumps away ... Haji Lane is where it's at.
As most of the cafes and restaurants in the area do not serve alcohol (they are Muslim), Pitch Black and Blu Jaz are de facto pitstops for a pint (or a shot). The charming Pitch Black is a cafe, screening room and art gallery -- musicians play here every last Sunday of the month, and film screenings are ongoing: check the schedules at the website. Blu Jaz has the most extensive list of alcohol and other drinks, and food standards are above average. Indie musicians and DJs also play here regularly; the eclectically assembled bistro spills into an al fresco alleyway next to an artist's studio, and upstairs at Blu Jaz Too.
Further north into the neighbourhood, the gorgeous Cafe Samar is where one might go to sample Arab and Yemeni fare while listening to a traditional Arab band play 'live'; the ambience in this cavernous den would transport you instantly to the Middle East. For better and cheaper food, though, try the Lebanese delicacies at El Sheikh on Pahang Street.
For something different, head for Kandahar Street for Indonesian fare at Bumbu, and durian and strawberry rolls at Rich and Good Cake Shop.
Bugis and Bencoolen
Basil Alcove is one of the city's best kept secrets -- the young but experienced chef turns out contemporary European fare at street prices. Set lunch is a steal where $10 buys soup, large bowl of excellent pasta and a drink, but dinner is when the chef shines with more variety and amazing meat and seafood dishes, at a price that won't hurt anyone's wallet. Nearby Victor's Kitchen has authentic dimsum from Hong Kong at very reasonable prices.
For late night dining, Bencoolen Street's Al-Jilani, Fong Seng and Kopitiam foodcourt at Plaza by the Park offer Indian Muslim cuisine, nasi lemak and other varieties around the clock. The food courts at Sim Lim Square and Bugis Junction offer much variety and are generally well worth a visit if you're in the area, but if you're feeling adventurous, head through Bugis Village towards Albert Food Centre (opposite Fu Lou Shou Complex) where the old school hawker centre there will fill you up for very little. Many of the stalls here have Chinese characters only and the stallkeepers may only speak Chinese too; but the pictures should be sufficient. If all else fails, ask a local. Sample carrot cake, soon kueh, Indian rojak, and wash down with teh tarik, lemon sugarcane juice, or a dessert of ice kachang.
Alaturka 16 Bussorah Street
Albert Food Centre 270 Queen Street (opposite Fu Lou Shou)
Al-Jilani 127 Bencoolen Street
Al-Tazzag 24 Haji Lane
B Bakery 15 Bussorah Street
Basil Alcove 190 Middle Road #01-07, Fortune Centre
Blu Jaz (and Blu Jaz Too) 11 Bali Lane
Bumbu 44 Kandahar Street
Cafe le Caire 39 Arab Street
Cafe Samar 60 Kandahar Street
El-Sheikh 18 Pahang Street, 6296-9116
Famous Islamic Restaurant 795/797 North Bridge Road, (junction of North Bridge Road and Klapa Road)
Fong Seng 131 Bencoolen Street
Kampong Glam Cafe 14 Bussorah Street
Pitch Black 63 Haji Lane (for screenings and events, check out www.pitchblack.com.sg)
Rich and Good Cake Shop 24 Kandahar Street
Unnamed Teh Tarik Stall Baghdad Street, opposite Kampong Glam Cafe
Victor's Kitchen 91 Bencoolen Street #01-21, Sunshine Plaza
Zam Zam 697/699 North Bridge Road