Region: Bangkok And Surrounds> Province: Ayutthaya> Location: Ayutthaya
Ayutthaya
Ayutthaya has a wide variety of places to eat and drink to suit all budgets and tastes, but because the island is spread out, it can seem to the newcomer that there is only one location. Those who venture further afield will not be disappointed. Take insect repellent to ensure there are no unnecessary distractions.
Starting around the backpacker area eating options are rather 'same-same'. While the food is tasty, all offer similar menus of toned down, priced-up Thai food, as well as western standards of burgers, steak, chips, pizzas and breakfasts etc. The small but charming Moon Cafe and Restaurant has street side tables and air-con restaurant. Further up the road Tony's Place is a large open-air place with soft lighting and a good place to have a long, relaxing meal, across the road, pavement side Chiang Restauant is a popular choice with live music most nights. This restaurant also does pricey-but-big, English breakfasts and allows inventive mix 'n' match options such as hash brown omelette with cheese. Up and turn right around the corner onto Pamaphrao Rd, 29 Steak offers, good steaks and similar options to the above. Down the road and to the left along Naresuan Rd, those needing a junk-food fix will be delighted to find a small sidestreet near Kasikorn Bank, where all the usual suspects sell burgers, fried chicken, and pizza.
If authenticity is what you seek, markets provide good Thai food using freshly cooked produce at very cheap prices. Opposite Kasikorn Bank is Chao Prom market, sometimes called the morning market but it goes on until mid-afternoon. A good spot for breakfast and lunch, here you can get a wide variety of excellent food, drinks, snacks and desserts. Most restaurants have menus in English, but if you get stuck just smile and point. The skills learnt from past games of charades may come in handy!
Ayutthaya also has two night markets. Hua Raw Market on U-Thong Rd to the North of the island has simple open-air tables and a great setting overlooking the river. The other is located at the end of Bang Len Rd near to Wat Matathat, this is the livelier of the two and where the locals go. The seating area here provides a good location to finish off a days exploring, or starting point to embark on a night tour of the floodlit temples. The park opposite provides the perfect spot for a picnic overlooking the lake, but be sure to bring insect repellent.
If the market food isn't spicy enough, a number of Isaan restaurants line the bank of a small lagoon on Patone Rd offering fiery dishes from northeast Thailand. Service is in keeping with laid-back Isaan culture and being popular with students, evenings can get pretty raucous. Flame-on!
For a touch of class, head down to the restaurants on the southside of the island. At the corner of Chikun Rd and U-Thong Rd a cluster of restaurants stretch along the riverbank. Although specialising in seafood, their extensive menus cover just about every culinary desire. This riverside setting is also a great spot for an afternoon beer. Just upriver from the ferry crossing, Sai-Thong River has a large terrace area with open air seating. An inexpensive menu and attentive staff make this a good place for an enjoyable meal. Down river and to the left of the ferry crossing is Ban U-Thong Restaurant (sign in Thai). With a similar menu and prices to Sai-Thong River the difference here is the scale of the place with its smaller terrace providing a more intimate setting. Next along is Ban Mai Rim Nam. At double the price it's the most expensive of the three, but in terms of quality food, extensive fish menu and split level open-air terrace, it certainly outshines its neighbours. The restaurant also has a boat for private hire should you wish to dine while cruising along the river.
A couple of blocks down form the backpacker area, another riverside restaurant that may be a little closer to your guesthouse is Bannkunpra Restaurant. An antique traditional Thai house with stylish modern decking, this place does a wide range of good Thai food at reasonable prices. Even further down the river, the pleasant setting of Pae Krung Kao Ayudthaya maintains its popularity as a riverside eatery best known for its huge grilled river prawns, rather overpriced at around 300 baht for just one. Be sure to toss your scraps over the side to stay on the good side of the squillions of fish in the water below.
For those who just can't get enough of the ruins, both Malakaw and Po Thai Restaurants on Chikun Rd, offer floodlit views of Wat Ratchaburana after dusk. The former is a restaurant with open-air and air-conditioned sections is a great spot to relax after a day of temple hopping. Offering both Thai and western staples, the Thai dishes tend to be toned down for the foreign palate, so ask for spicey if that's the way you like it. The latter specialises in Vietnamese food, and does Thai standards as well, neither of which are outstanding but the view of the ruins is good.
Finally, if you are looking for a meal served in an idyllic setting, Chow Praya Hut offers a romantic riverside location a few km out of town. The food at this outdoor restaurant (and hotel) is authentic Thai, not the tourist version that is found at the guesthouses in town and comes highly recommended.
Bars and nightlife
Due to strict policing in Ayuttahaya, most bars close by midnight so there's little opportunity for a late night out. So... start early!
The main hub of bars are to be found around the backpacker area. Moon Cafe and Restaurant has good music with the occasional band or DJ, as does Tony's Place. Across the road, Chiang House and the surrounding restaurants compete with live music and open mike nights and are usually the last to close. You will probably end up here at some stage and be beyond caring about the quality of singing by the end of the night.
Those with a taste for cocktails should head for Wa-gun-ti bar (up the road and left around the corner along Pamaphrao Rd, (just past Baan Lotus guesthouse) which has a predominantly Thai clientele seated amongst fairy lights and pot plants, or around the bar. An extensive range of cocktails at 80B a pop and mixed music makes this is a good place to start the night with a bang.
If Thai-style is to your liking, wobble across the road to Pak Soi bar (sign in Thai). Petit, tastefully decorated with colourful hanging lanterns and aged wooden tables this can be a place to experience Thai hospitality at its best (depending on who is in there). Regular priced drinks and tasty food to soak up the booze compliment the occasional acoustic acts and popular Thai music.
A little further afield is another Thai bar, By Yai Lek, run by twin brothers Mr Yai (big) and Mr Lek (small). Streetside tables, a fairy-lit courtyard, well priced drinks, good music and big smiles make this an excellent choice for a relaxing evening.
Those wanting a very quiet beer by the river should head for Rua Rim Nam (sign in Thai), whose spartan tables occupy a jetty just 10 minutes walk from the backpacker area. They also offer an inexpensive and varied menu. To get there, walk to the eastern end of Pamaphrao Rd and turn left into U-Thong Rd. About 100m on your right is a sign for boat trips to Bang Pa-In with the bar just beyond.
A couple of bars around the backpacker area have pool tables and there is also a snooker hall with 4 tables, air-con and bar just next to Thai Po restaurant.
A word on being invited for drinks -- just to avoid any confusion, Thai's will often 'invite' you for a drink, but as this does not have the same meaning as in the west don't be offended if you end up paying for it yourself.
29 Steak Pamaphrao Rd, Ayutthaya.
Ban Mai Rim Nam 33 U-Thong Rd, Ayutthaya. T: (035) 21 1516 F: (035) 21 1526 . Boat hire 1500B per hour (holds up to 40 pax) book 3 days in advance or call to check availability.
Bannkunpra Restaurant U-Thong Rd, Ayutthaya. T: (035) 24 1978
Ban U-Thong Restaurant U-Thong Rd, Ayutthaya.
By Yai Lek bar Khlong Makham Wang Rd, Ayutthaya.
Chiang Restauant Naresuan Rd Soi 1, Ayutthaya.
Chow Praya Hut 45/1 Moo 8 Baanmai T: (035) 39 8200 reservations@chowprayahut.com http://www.chowprayahut.com
Isaan restaurants Patone Rd, Ayutthaya.
Malakaw Restaurant ChiKun Rd, Ayutthaya.
Moon Cafe and Restaurant Naresuan Rd Soi 1, Ayutthaya.
Night Markets Open daily 17:00 to 23:00
Pae Krung Kao Ayudthaya U-Thong Rd, Ayutthaya.
Pak Soi bar Pamaphrao Rd, Ayutthaya.
Po Thai Restaurant ChiKun Rd, Ayutthaya.
Rua Rim Nam jetty bar U-Thong Rd, Ayutthaya.
Sai-Thong River U-Thong Rd, Ayutthaya. T: (035) 24 1449
Snooker Hall Open daily 08:00 to 23:00
Tony's Place Naresuan Rd Soi 1, Ayutthaya.
Wa-gun-ti bar Pamaphrao Rd, Ayutthaya.