Eat and meet

Khao San Road and surrounds

Khao San Road and the surrounding areas is the centre of the backpacking universe. Consequently it is overflowing with eating options from 10 baht noodles to McDonalds, and more recently, a growing number of tastefully decorated, yet still relatively expensive Thai and international restaurants. Furthermore, Thai people love to eat and drink simultaneously, so most bars tend to serve food late into the evening and certain venues cannot be simply categorized as a bar or a restaurant.

Throughout the day, but particularly in the afternoon or evening, you can always save a few baht by eating on the street. Falafel stands abound, as do mobile street vendors who sell pad Thai noodles, meat on a stick, soup, and other simple but tasty treats all for 50 baht or less. However, while street food is incredibly cheap, most guesthouse restaurants charge a premium for simple Thai dishes; 30 baht fried rice sells for over 100 baht at many restaurants, so unless you are looking for something exotic, get your standard Thai fare on the street or get higher quality Thai food at legitimate restaurants such as Hemlock on Phra Sumen or even Yoongchang Lerdrol Bar and Restaurant, which serves a wide selection of fresh Thai dishes for 25 to 30B and is just around the corner from Khao San Road on Chakraphong Road. For better Middle Eastern fare, Shoshanna is probably the most popular Israeli restaurant in the area for good reason: the food is fantastic and well-priced. A generous serving of schnitzel, chips and hummus is 60B. It's located on a subsoi next to the Shell. Enter the soi and walk up about 40m, and Shoshanna is on the right.

As many travellers prefer not to eat meat, there are a number of restaurants that cater to them. Ethos advertises itself as a place for all things healthy and serves international vegetarian and vegan food, espresso, and fresh juices. They also promote free thought through books, flyers and discussion in order to inform you about healthy living, other establishments in SE Asia to eat and live healthy, and offer massage that should be a notch above many generic ones in the neighbourhood. Alternatively, you could try the nearby May Kaidee's Vegetarian Restaurant, a tucked-away street-side place in two locations near Khao San, that both do very good, basic vegetarian fare. You can learn to whip up the dishes yourself if you really like them, with cooking classes available.

Hippie Hi, the sister property of nearby Hippie de bar, has indoor and outdoor seating like the original. You can dine on decent Thai food while lounging upon sofas inside the old wooden house or outdoors in a small, quaint courtyard while listening to chill out music. The original Hippie de bar, just behind the fence, but actually one soi over, is a retro-inspired bar/restaurant that plays the same tunes, but is a bit livelier later in the evening.

Within the courtyard that houses Hippie Hi is the open-air dining venue, Tom Yam Kung, which serves decent Thai fare at fairly reasonable prices. Just beside Tom Yam Gung is the mysterious black building that houses It happened to be a closet, a clothing store/bookshop/beauty salon/cafe/cigar bar/restaurant, although not necessarily in that order. Like the other branch on Siam Square, this multi-story building is a funky, eclectic venue that has an expensive but impressive menu served upon dining tables in various rooms throughout the building. Crack open a bottle of wine and puff on a cigar in the Mafia room or pull up a sofa in the middle of the store for one of their fabulous deserts. Great for artistically oriented types or serious gourmands.

A growing trend in the Khao San area is the development of dining and nightlife complexes such as Sun Strip Plaza, located about halfway down Khao San. There is a Scoozi pizza and pasta restaurant, a franchise of the incredibly popular upscale Scoozi restaurant. At the Sunset Bar and Garden Restaurant you can dine on Thai or western fare in a lovely courtyard within the colonial style buildings that surround it or shoot some pool and drink a tower of draft beer. Alternatively, you can people watch at the Sabai Bar, which has happy hour specials that are so refreshing after a day of shopping or sightseeing. There is also a Starbucks within the complex.

Another such complex is the nearby Center Point Plaza, next to Family Mart, where there are clean and sturdy street-side tables and the Roof Terrace Restaurant, which is a bit too bright, but has live music seven days a week. It is otherwise unremarkable. Nearly across the street there is good music inside the huge open-air Center Khao San restaurant, which has pool tables and is ideal for watching sporting events. Upstairs is the areas only Irish Pub, Shamrock, which has a huge bar surrounded by stools and a multitude of TV's, again ideal for sporting events, as well as several pool tables and a electronic dart board. It's a decent pub if you are jonesing for a Guinness, but you're generally better off heading to Gullivers down the street if you're looking for a fun place to party.

By far the most popular of the all-in-one dining/nightlife complexes is build in and around Buddy Lodge. In addition to a coffee world and a McDonalds, there is a decent restaurant/pub with a large menu of both food and drinks on the second floor. Far in the back, behind the McDonalds is Brick Bar, which has pool tables, live music, and a good mixture of Thai and Farang patrons, although the clientele is a bit heavy on the masculine side. The mixture of Thai and western pop music, occasionally from such popular Thai bands like Modern Dog, and its clean, professionally run bar makes it a happening and fun place to party.

Silk Bar is a good example of the aforementioned bar/restaurant combo. It has an outdoor terrace beside Khao San road that is ideal for people watching and an indoor disco ball illuminated indoor area with a pool table, Jagermeister on tap, and after 9pm the lights dim and the DJ starts spinning tunes. Popular with Thais and westerners alike, it offers great international and Thai food at good prices; the Silk Bar Salad, a tasty Thai take on a salad, is 90B. As Silk Bar serves both food and drinks, and has the large street-side deck it's really better as a warm-up bar and restaurant prior to serious partying elsewhere.

Some other bars that follow this Thai theme of sitting around a table with a group of friends eating and drinking throughout the night are Molly Bar, a popular live music venue on Rambutri, which draws greater numbers of Thai's indoors and Farang outdoors. The two story brick and wood building has old wooden furniture and is decorated with hundreds of retro rock and roll and hippie photos. Upstairs is a pool table and archway windows from which you can watch the band; Barlamphu, also on Soi Rambutri, does reasonable Thai food at good prices and has street-side seating which is a pleasant place to watch the world go by. But be warned: the Eagles-crooning cover bands can be awful; and Dong Dae Moon Bar and Restaurant, comprising of a good Korean restaurant downstairs and pumping bar upstairs that boasts a decent pool table and DJ along with an outdoor area where the drinks are poured and the view over Wat Chai Chana Songkram makes for great people watching. The music is a good mix and played at conversation-enabling volume. Finally, there is Lotash Seed, the great bar/restaurant, with a tasteful contemporary Thai style designed interior. This building previously was the popular Dali Bar; The new Lotash Seed is a great improvement. A wide selection of Thai food including dishes that the average tourist will rarely see on a menu such as Mieng Kum -- 100B, and Banana Flower Salad. There is a good vegetarian menu, shakes, cocktails and more. Upstairs is a nice chill out room to hang out with Thai-style cushions and Kantok tables. Don't to forget to check out probably the nicest toilets around Khao San.

Although it's a bit of a walk from Khao San, Ad Here is worth searching out. The bizarrely-named blues and jazz bar has a great welcoming atmosphere that attracts Thais, tourists and expats in equal number. A resident blues band with a loyal following plays nightly from around 10pm. Occasional special events and frequent jams by other locals ensures a bit of variety for the regulars. Beers and cocktails are reasonably priced at 60 to 70B and the food is tasty and equally inexpensive. Definitely worth a look for blues fans, but try to arrive before the band begins at 9:30 as the small venue fills up quickly around that time. To find this bar, walk down Chakraphong Road from Khao San Road towards Samsen, go through the traffic lights, over the bridge, and it's the first bar on the left. While you're in that neighbourhood, just next door is Baghdad Cafe. Slip into this bar, close the door and leave Banglamphu behind. Surrounded by Middle Eastern ornaments and photographs and while listening to tunes from the region, suck back a Sheesha pipe and enjoy a Turkish coffee. A pipe costs 120B and gives an hour or two of enjoyment and conversation. No food.

Another hidden gem not immediately on or beside Khao San proper is Phra Nakorn Bar and Gallery. This trendy bar and restaurant has four levels to wind through. The airy downstairs bar is a pleasant spot to begin with a drink, while the second floor art gallery allows a glimpse of some home-grown art. The third floor lounge area features a pool table, but the prime location is the rooftop, where you can while away the night over a meal with friends overlooking the stunning Golden Mount. A bit tricky to find, but only a stone's throw from Khao San. It's on the opposite side of Rachadamnern. Head down Tanao Road and then take a right down Soi Damnoen Klang.

Even farther afield is The Silver Spoon, a very good Thai seafood restaurant set right on the Chao Phraya River and is an excellent dinner choice. The place itself is a bit ramshackle and if the river is high, the lower floor can flood quickly -- but upstairs is always safe.

Back on Khao San, decent pub grub and cocktail choices as well as a handy location at the western end of Khao San Road have made Gulliver's an institution among backpackers, English teachers and locals alike. Be sure to check out the happy hour times. A new level upstairs with more pool tables and room for grooving opened recently. Be warned: it's sometimes difficult to distinguish the freelance working girls (and katoeys) from friendly locals out for a good time.

 

Just a few doors down is the even newer Gullivers 2. If you've got a group of friends and want to shoot some pool, this larger more stylish edition of Gullivers is ideal. Sadly, it lacks the corner location of the original, but this makes it a great place to watch sporting events as they have a big screen TV, multiple plasmas, and are unlikely to be full. Upstairs is Mayompuri tropical bar and restaurant, set within a gorgeous open air brick courtyard filled with tropical plants, fountains, and large fans that keep you cool and keep the mozzies at bay. The food is nothing extraordinary, standard Thai and Western fare, but it's by far the most romantic atmosphere on the block.

When it starts getting late, the serious partying commences. There are a number of clubs that feature live music or rotating DJs nightly, and are packed with Thai's and Farang nearly every night.

Lava Club is a cavernous, underground, dimly lit, somewhat seedy club ideal for getting your groove on. Alternating music depending on the evening, but a very mixed crowd of Thais, backpackers, and expats get pretty intimate in this small, crowded dance club. No bags allowed, no guns, drugs, etc. You know the scene. Next door to Lava is Immortal which is similar to its neighbour but is a bit smaller and a tad seedier, Unlike Lava, Immortal features live music on weekdays that includes reggae, rock and roll, and Thai extreme metal, in addition to predominately hip-hop DJ's on the weekends.

On the soi connecting Khao San to Rambutri is Suzie Pub, whose brick walls and old wooden floor are reminiscent of a western saloon; it's dark, crowded, and full of drunken revellers, all of which contribute to wild-west spirit. There is a strict ID policy as the place is extremely popular with young Thais who don't mind getting mixing it up with the odd Farang who stumbles upon the place. Whisky all around and shake your rump at this legendary party pub.

One of Khao San roads largest and most popular dance clubs is The Club. Tucked down a small soi is a towering three story club, which plays trance, tribal, drum and bass, and house on a rotating weekly basis. 150 baht cover includes one drink, although most patrons don't seem to stop there, drinking and dancing until they're grudgingly ushered out around 1:30am. Check out their website for listings, including occasionally visiting international DJs.

To check out the local artsy university scene and some of the up-and-coming Bangkok DJs check out Cafe Democ, on the circle surrounding Democracy Monument. This small, crowded two story club is where many local DJ's made their name, and events include visual displays and art adorned walls. Check their schedule before popping in as it is often dead on regular nights.

Finally, while late night clubs come and go, Gazebo on Chakraphong Road is the mid 2007 place for after hours partying. There is an outdoor, rooftop sheesha smoking area that features live reggae and indoor club area that hosts international DJ's in a dark smoky room ideal for dancing and mingling late, late night style. While it's uncertain if they will be able to continue serving untill the wee hours of the morning, the club is certainly worth checking out nonetheless.

Ad Here the 13th: 13 Samsen Rd, Bangkok. T:(089) 0339070. Daily 16:00 - 24:00
Baghdad Cafe: 13 Samsen Road, Bangkok.
Barlamphu: Soi Rambutri, Bangkok. T:(081) 846 7548. Daily 17:00 - 01:00
Brick Bar: 265 Khaosan Rd, Bangkok. T:(02) 629 4477. Daily 18:00 - 01:00 http://www.buddylodge.com
Cafe Democ: Corner of democracy monument, Bangkok. T:(02) 262 2571. Daily 18:00 - 02:00. http://www.cafe-democ.com
Center Khao Sarn: 80-84 Khaosan Rd, Bangkok. T:(02) 282 4366. Daily 24 hours
Dong Dae Moon Bar and Restaurant: Rambutri Road, Bangkok. T:(081) 333 4280. Restaurant open daily 10:00 - 24:00, Bar 17:00 - 24:00
Ethos: 85/2 Tanao Rd, Bangkok. T:(02) 282 2748. Daily 09:00 - 22:00. http://www.khaosanroad.com/ethos
Gazebo Club and Restaurant: 3rd floor Jakrapong road around the corner from Gullivers, Bangkok. T:(02) 629 0705. Daily 20:00 - late. http://www.gazeboclub.com
Gulliver's Traveler's Tavern: Corner of Khao San and Chakraphong Roads, Bangkok. T:(02) 629 1988. Daily 11:00 - 01:00. http://www.Gulliverbangkok.com
Hippie de Bar: 46 Khao San Rd, Bangkok. T:(02) 629 3508. Daily
Immortal Bar: Bayon Building, Khao San road, Bangkok. T:(081) 750 0591. Daily 18:00 - 01:30. http://www.immortalbar.com
It happened to be a closet: 32 Khaosan Rd, Bangkok. T:(02) 629 5271. Daily 13:00 - 23:00.
Lava Club: 29 Bayon Building, Khao San Road, Bangkok. T:(02) 281 6565. Daily 20:30 - 1:30. http://www.lavaclubbangkok.com
Lotash Seed: Soi Rambuttri, Bangkok. T:(02) 282 7082.
May Kaidee's Vegetarian Restaurant: 117/1 Tanao Rd, Banglamphu and 33 Samsen Road, Bangkok. T:(089) 137 3173. Daily 08:30 - 24:00. http://www.maykaidee.com/
Molly Bar: 108 Rambutri Rd, Bangkok. T:(02) 629 4074. Daily 13:00 - 01:00
Phra Nakorn Bar and Gallery: 58/2 Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, Bangkok. T:(02) 622 0282. Daily 18:00 - 01:00.
Shamrock Bar: above Center Khao Sarn. 10:00 - 01:00.
Shoshana Restaurant: 86 Chakraphong subsoi, near Shell, Bangkok. T:(02) 282 9948. Daily 10:00 - 24:00.
Silk Bar & Restaurant: 129-131 Khao San Rd, Banglamphu, Bangkok. T:(02) 281 9981. Daily 12:00 - 06:00. http://www.silk-bar.com
Sunset Bar: 201 Khaosan Rd, Bangkok. T:(02) 282 5823. Daily 12:00 - 02:00. http://www.sunsetstreet.com
Susie Pub: 108/5-9 Soi Rambutri, Bangkok. T:(02) 282 4459. Daily 17:00 - 01:00.
The Cave: Khao San Road, Bangkok. T:(02) 629 5064. Daily 17:00 - 01:00.
The Club: 123 Khao San Road, Bangkok. T:(02) 629 2255. Daily 21:00 - 01:00. http://www.theclubkhaosan.com
Tom Yum Kung: Khao San Rd, Bangkok. T:(02) 629 2772. Daily 14:00 - 02:00.
Yoongchang Lerdrol Bar and Restaurant: Chakraphong Road, Bangkok.

West Banglamphu and Phra Athit Rd

The West Banglamphu area is an interesting neighbourhood, where two worlds collide; backpackers to the east and university students to the west. Along Soi Rambutri are a preponderance of backpacker lodgings with lobby restaurants and a number of bars catering primarily to foreigners, although there are a few Thai hangouts along the way, particularly the popular Bangkok Bar. The riverside road of Phra Athit is a popular hangout for Thai university students and a number of bars and cafes lining the road primarily cater to this clientele.

Rounding the bend towards the back side of Rambutri Rd, the most interesting venue is Gecko Bar, located at the intersection of Rambutri, Soi Chanasongkhram, and the entrance to Wat Chana Songkhram. This indoor/outdoor bar, with sidewalk seating, a casual atmosphere, and cheap drinks is an ideal site for people watching and relaxing with a cold one after a long day of sightseeing. The bar is an interesting mix of older expatriates, long-time visitors, and backpackers looking for bargain beers. Farther down the road is the area's only Korean Restaurant, Domi, run by Koreans, popular with Korean visitors, and undoubtedly serving authentic Korean cuisine.

The riverside road of Phra Athit runs from Thammasat University (to the south) up to Phra Sumen Park (to the north). Along the way are a number of cafes and bars that primarily draw students from Thammasat and other nearby Universities, as well as other young Thais and the occasional curious traveller. Most popular among foreigners is Hemlock, a Thai restaurant that doubles as an art gallery that showcases local artists' photography and painting. The restaurant's large menu consists of classic and creative Thai dishes at reasonable prices and is quite popular with a slightly older crowd of expats and working class Thais. The downstairs is more elegant and superior for people watching, while the service upstairs can be quite slow but allows you time to appreciate the artwork on display.

Another location along Phra Athit that draws a few Farang is Comme restaurant and bar. As the only establishment without an exterior wall, the open-air indoor/outdoor seating and interesting decor -- decked out with chunky motorbikes and retro art -- creates a more inviting atmosphere for foreign passers by to settle down in. Occasional live music could be an asset if you like ordinary cover-bands, which the clientele when we visited certainly did. Food is typical Thai student-bar fare, which is reasonably priced.

The remainder of the cafes and clubs along this stretch of road are popular student haunts. Bar Bali is a chic Thai restaurant with a glass-front wall and a few outdoor tables in addition to a small interior. Its exhibit of posters in the bathroom are about the most interesting facet of this place. To Sit, Indy, and Ginn Duum are the other popular student hangouts, each of which are dark, smoky, and packed with students, drinking, eating, and singing along to live Thai cover bands seven days a week. While foreigners don't often dare venture into these student enclaves, those who do will eventually overcome the gaping stares to be welcomed by friendly smiles and invited to rounds of toasts.

Along the river side of the road are two establishments quite different from the row of student bars and cafes. The Old Phra Athit Pier Restaurant is located, predictably, just beside the pier. Dining on a wooden deck, between the river and a beautiful peak-roofed Thai structure, the few lucky travellers who discover this restaurant are served delicious Thai food, by exceptional Thai servers. Farther up the road towards the park is Banglamphu Pier Bar, a hole-in-the-wall dive bar that has live open-mic style jam-bands and cheap drinks and is popular with punk students and the occasional intrepid traveller. The bar, however, isn't on the water, but on the road.

Finally, if you're looking for a pick-me-up, try Coffee and More, a cute cafe hidden behind a metal fence on the northern end of Phra Athit. Trendy Thai students and young professions sip excellent coffees and nosh on freshly baked cakes and pastries while perusing coffee table books and magazines provided by the cafe. In addition to the nice atmosphere and tasty treats, Coffee and More has one of the cleanest and most comfortable public bathrooms in the area.

Banglamphu Pier Bar Phra Athit Road, Daily 16:00-24:00
Bar Bali 58 Phra Athit Road, (02) 629 0318, Daily 17:00-01:00
Coffee & More 102/1 Phra Athit Road, Daily 09:00-21:00
Comme Phra Athit Road, Daily 17:00-01:00
Domi Korean Restaurant 28/8 Soi Rambutri Chaofa Rd, (02) 282 4361. Daily 8:00-23:00
Gecko Bar 25/3 Soi Chanasongkhram, (02) 282 2031. Daily 10:00-01:00
Ginn Duum Phra Athit Road, (02) 629 1177, Daily 18:00-01:00
Hemlock 56 Phra Athit Road, (02) 282 7507, 16:00-23:00 Mon - Sun
Indy Phra Athit Road, Daily 17:00-01:00
The Old Phra Athit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Road, (02) 282 9202, Daily 11:00-24:00
To Sit Phra Athit Road, (02) 658 4001, Daily 17:00-01:00