Haad Sai Khao

Haad Sai Khao

Since all but a few of the resorts of Haad Sai Khao have their own restaurant there's no shortage of choices for eating in White Sands. There's also a few independent restaurants and bars along the beach and on the main road. Flavours become more international heading south and on the hill leading out of White Sands there are Italian, Korean and Indian eateries. There are also a few street stalls selling fruit, corn and meat on sticks for a late snack.

Nested right on the seafront a few doors up from Baan Thai Resort, Thor's remains a well known secret amongst the longer term visitors to Ko Chang. Thor is a colourful if not slightly eccentric Thai who has made a good reputation for himself due to his places great food, ambience and attitude. It's very laid back, and the menu isn't overly huge. The food however is very, very good. The creamy Massaman and Penang curries both received definitive thumbs up when we passed through, and let me tell you we've tried a few over the years; This was certainly one of the very best.

Owner of the Sea Gypsy Arts and Food Corner, Au, lived among southern Thailand's Sea Gypsies for years and this experience dominates his small restaurant. The tiny hut has hundreds of small watercolour paintings depicting Sea Gypsie scenes, mostly revolving around the beach, fishing and music. You can find your usual favourite Thai dishes here and there's an emphasis on barbecued food. It's on the beach, next to Sand Terrace Restaurant.

The elevated treehouse at Tonsai Restaurant has fantastic laidback island atmosphere in a way that the rest of Haad Sai Khao doesn't. While some of the seating is at tables, the majority consists of floor cushions and hammocks. Funky music wafts, and mobiles and drapes sway in the breeze. The menu is terrific, with interesting and original Thai/western fusion dishes and plenty of old favourites. Deep fried shrimp with tamarind sauce, roasted duck curry and battered Vietnamese sausage are just some of the offerings, and none over 100B per dish. The food, particularly the salads, is delicious. The cocktail list is extensive and inventive. The best part (aside of the great taste) is that it's very reasonably priced and one of the cheapest restaurants at the beach. It's a few metres up a small lane besides SP Place, opposite side of the road from 15 Palms.

Occupying a prime spot at the whitest, sandiest part of White Sands Beach, 15 Palms offers a broad selection of food stuffs at reasonable prices. For early risers the Full English breakfast comes in at 160B and is pretty decent, complete with a large mug of tea. There's a pool table, and plenty of big screens for the latest sporting event, as well as BBC news during the day. The bar has a broad selection of spirits, as well as some decent imported beers and ciders for those feeling a little homesick. Unfortunately one drawback is the nearby sewage canal which can smell terrible on a bad day. If the wind is going the wrong way then the foul odours can reach the restaurant.

Going more local, a small pocket of street food stalls near Sangtawan Bungalows do cheap, tasty meals. Traditional Thai and Isaan food such as laap, papaya salad, simple stir fries, fried rice and noodles are all cooked and served at outdoor stalls for between 25 and 50B a plate. Popular with Thai students and those on a budget, these stalls are a great change of pace from the more full-on tourist restaurants, not to mention easier on the wallet. Look out for NongBeua about midway along the strip (they have two outlets), probably the best of the Isaan offerings, though watch out for an over zealous use of chilli.

From the outside Jinda looks like any other roadside eatery, most of the frontage obscured by poster-like advertising of their menu. The menu itself is enormous, with virtually anything you can think of being listed... well ok, they don't sell sushi or escargot, but if they have oodles of Thai curries, pasta dishes, steaks, chops, BBQ seafood, muesli, sandwiches, spring rolls, salads, Vietnamese dishes... the list goes on. So much so that if you can't find something on this menu that you like, you may as well pack your backs and go home.

For thoves with a craving for Indian, sub continental delights are your fingertips at Spices of India. The design of the open-air sala-style is worth a photo in itself. With its Hindu paintings and gaudy jewels hanging from the ceiling the restaurant looks like the set of a Bollywood musical. There's also a brightly coloured Indian swing for patrons to sit on for a few happy-snaps after their curry. it's located on the left side of the main road as you head south out of White Sands Beach. If you're looking for something less oppulent, occupying a small building near the top of the hill south of White Sands Beach, Taste of India is like a no-frills version of the elaborate Spices of India up the road. The chef's specialties include the masala and chicken birgari, and the management also leases a few guesthouse rooms out the back for around 500B night.

A nondescript little restaurant on the main street, Prignam serves decent Thai, a sprinkling of international and a number of seafood dishes at fairly reasonable prices for Haad Sai Khao. Although movies screen at night to entice customers, their biggest business seems to be the tourist booking service for activities around the island.

15 Palms Haad Sai Khao, Ko Chang. T: (039) 551 095.
Jinda Restaurant Opposite KC Grande, Haad Sai Khao, Ko Chang.
Sea Gypsy Arts and Food Corner Haad Sai Khao, Ko Chang. T: (05) 8393 574.
Spices of India Haad Sai Kao, Ko Chang. T: (01) 9219 844.
Taste of India 6/16 Moo 4, Haad Sai Kao, Ko Chang.T: (05) 8163 033.
Tonsai Restaurant Haad Sai Khao, Ko Chang.

You won't be served any tapas with your cerveza at Tapas, the name's just a way of promoting a subtly Latin flavour. Just a simple hut on the beach with a few hammocks scattered around, Tapas Bar's raison d'etre is it's cocktails, which range from the basic to the extravagant. King of the drinks is the tapas dacquari, a sickly sweet mix of mango, banana, lime, cointreau and white rum. It'll set you back 160B, but you won't need many before you feel like doing a lambada on the beach. The Capirinha is also served very well. Great spot for sunset people watching.

Come the evening, and probably the best live-music venue on the island, Oodie's sprang out of a patch of reclaimed swampland around 1999. Music follows a three Rs curriculum of rock 'n' roll, R&B and reggae, and customers sometime get up and join the band. It's an atmospheric, open-air bar with wooden benches and quiet corners with couches on which to stretch out. The menu boasts an interesting array of Thai and French dishes, and does pizza as well. It can be really busy in the evening so be sure to turn up early if you want to secure a table.

The Sabay Bar has to be one of the biggest and brashest night time venues along the beach at White Sands. The roadside facade looks like something out The Flintstones. There's a huge room inside with a saloon-style upper deck from which to take in the nightly live music performances. The restaurant serves everything from fried rice to marinara pizza and there's also an outdoor bar. The Sabay also puts on monthly full moon parties.

Oodie's Place 7/20 Haad Sai Khao, Ko Chang. T: (039) 551 193.
Sabay Bar Haad Sai Khao, Ko Chang. T: (039) 551 097.
Tapas Bar Haad Sai Khao, Ko Chang. T: (01) 945 6478.