Region: Northeast Thailand> Province: Nakhon Ratchasima> Location: Nakhon Ratchasima

Nakhon Ratchasima

Isan is known for its spicy and delicious food and Khorat lies at the heart of it all. Food carts sprinkled about the city serve up fiery som tam, grilled meats, fried bananas, pad mi Khorat, and other delectable treats.

Though there's not much by way of western breakfast spots besides those at hotels, there are plenty of places to get a delicious meal. The Morning Market, just across from the train station, has all sorts of goodies to fill you up. Try a raisin-coconut waffle washed down with strong Thai iced coffee or opt for a simple omelette with rice. If you're feeling more adventurous, various bite-sized fried gems come with tasty dipping sauces. Don't miss the delicious fried chicken and grab a doughnut or two for the road. Friends Bar, tucked in front of M in Korat, offers chewy baguette breakfast sandwiches, but doesn't open until noon most days and not at all on Mondays. They also serve traditional pub food and drinks while you catch up with the ex-pats in town. A pool table and small book exchange make this a multi-tasking establishment. VFW, in the Siri Hotel also serves up breakfast sandwiches in a diner-style environment. Burgers, grilled cheese and fries are also on the small menu.

For the best pad se-ew in town, head east of Ya Mo on Atsadang Rd. After about two and a half blocks, sandwiched between moped dealer and bridal boutique is this family run gem of a spot. There's no sign, menu or regular hours, but the crowd during lunch is a testament to their food. If it's closed, head around the corner. To the right, you'll find House of Music, a self-described steak shop and music zone, though easily half the space is dedicated to computer part sales. Used guitars decorate the walls and offerings include chicken, pork, and beef steaks all served with salad. Grab a fresh fruit smoothie out front to wash it all down. Turn left instead and you'll find Coffee and Cake. In addition to the obvious, this cute cafe has quite an extensive menu and some offerings that are more creative then your standard coffee shop fare. The lemongrass omelette is unusual and delicious. Fried mama noodles have a distinct curried flavour and their fried rice is peppery and tart. For a tasty snack, get an order of their shoestring fries and a latte frappe with Oreos.

For more traditional fare, head down Yommarat Rd. Secluded Rabiang Pa is soothing with its tree-lined courtyard and bubbling fountain. The menu resembles a reference manual in weight and scope and has both pictures and English listings to aid in decision-making. Standouts include the fried fish, an addictive veggie laab -- be sure to make your spice-factor known -- and several varieties of tom yam that arrive piping hot and stay that way with glowing charcoal briquettes.

A short distance away is Rabiang Kaew that has both in- and outdoor seating. This pretty spot is decorated with simple rich woods and lush plants. The delicious food features an array of fresh seafood options -- the grilled shrimp and seafood soups are especially delicious. Large servings make for good sharing. Bring a friend, order a Singha, and enjoy.

Korat Buri is just a bit farther down the road and provides, as is the trend on this street, a lovely atmosphere in which to dine. The sprawling restaurant has an almost park-like setting and the upstairs seating is reminiscent of a tree house. The limited English menu offers such standouts as a savoury curry served in a hollowed-out coconut and grilled seafood. Drinks here stray from the standard and offer cocktails like Manhattans and some of their own invention like Frozen Bamboo. Live music adds to the ambiance.

A few streets down, the Charoenphan Bakery Building is hard to miss with its bright orange and brushed aluminium exterior. This multileveled bakery complex contains a similarly modern-looking mixed-use interior. The first floor houses pastries of every denomination and a small coffee kiosk. Upstairs, a sleek restaurant serves upscale Thai fare and, of course, delectable baked goods for dessert. The third floor is home to the only yoga studio in the heart of the city so you can work off your lunch. Classes cost 150 B and are offered at three different levels.

In a different part of town by the train station, Ban Thip Restaurant stands out as a stellar choice. With its warm yellow interior and garden setting, Ban Thip has literally dozens of tantalising options. The Chicken with Cashew Nut is drenched in a thick, tasty sauce and the Spicy Mango Salad stands out with shreds of green mango, thinly sliced red onion and a delicious tangy dressing. Another top choice is the green curry with its harmonious blend of the sweet and spicy flavours characteristic of the dish. The owner and staff are a delight and are happy to prepare all of their selections meat-free -- a rarity in these parts. Be forewarned that they are occasionally prone to an off night, though the food is usually a hit.

Around the corner is 17 Sisters, a sidewalk eatery that does a brisk porridge business. If porridge isn't your thing, sample one of their many stir fries that enlist a breadth of vegetables yet unmatched elsewhere, alongside tender pieces of fried ground pork. Upon special request, they'll prepare their amazing version of panang curry that is otherworldly.

Across the street, Swedish-owned Pizza Shop has a loyal farang following and a comprehensive menu that features everything from pizza to steak and potatoes. Though the conversation's good with story-swapping ex-pats, better pizza can be had elsewhere.

Down the street, Barista has a good selection of fresh-brewed espresso drinks and a great spread of homemade cakes and pies. If you catch them when they're fresh, they're the best in town. Try the chocolate pie with graham cracker crust.

Past the train station, another coffee shop, Eat Me Bakery has the standard beverage offerings plus a full menu with English translation. Food is simple, but good and there are plenty of options for dessert. The cornflake cookies are delicious and the ice cream is richer than most you'll find in town. The have a second outpost by the Ratchaphat University, on the way to the Dusit Princess.

A bit up the street from the Ya Mo monument is Ming Ter, a small restaurant that is strictly vegetarian. Offerings change daily, but expect some kind of soy meat product and noodles or rice. They also offer veggie versions of som tam and fish kabobs and sell a variety of vegetarian products. The English sign reads Vegetarian. On the other side of the monument head to Chaodoi for a coffee break. The English-speaking owner couldn't be friendlier, the coffee's delicious, and there are plenty of magazines -- in English! -- to keep you occupied. Closer to Klang Plaza 2, Circle Restaurant serves up a small number of decent pizzas and pastas in a modern and elegant setting. The selection of Thai board and logic games helps to pass the time while you're waiting for your pie to come out of the oven.

On the west side of town, Cabbages and Condoms has traditional Thai fare. Though for a good cause -- the restaurant is run by the Population and Community Development Association -- the food is mediocre and the place is a bit out of the way.

For something different, head to Taj Mahal, the only Indian restaurant in Khorat. Their extensive menu includes soft and chewy nan -- try the garlic -- palak paneer, tandoori chicken, lentil dal, and curries of every variety. The pleasant space is air-con and has free WiFi if you're so inclined. For a Tex-Mex experience, Big Chili serves up burritos, nachos, quesadillas, and terrific margaritas. Prices are on the steep side and food is average but provides a nice change of pace when you can't bear to look at another plate of noodles. For the best pizza in town, make your way to the residential district north of town, known as Joho (take songtheaw #6 to it's terminus, then walk a bit and take the first left and walk a bit more -- or just grab a tuk tuk --believe us, it's worth the trip). Dr. Pizza may indeed be just what the doctor ordered. Wood-fired pizzas are prepared in an authentic brick oven and arrive piping hot and chewy-crisp. Salads and pastas are also on the menu, but with such terrific pizza, why waste your appetite on anything else?

Two night markets also have an impressive spread of local favourites. Wat Boon Night Bazaar, not to be confused with the virtually foodless Manak Road Night Bazaar just up the street, offers noodles, grilled meats and fish, soups, and traditional salads. Nothing is more than about 50 B and it's a pleasant place to stroll. For more excitement, Sav One has over 100 dining choices and is sure to please every palate. The sprawling market sells everything from knockoff handbags to miniskirt-clad bunnies, which ensures there's plenty to see after you've filled your belly.

For drinks and nightlife, a good place to start is Yommarat Rd. With plenty of recommended eating options, it provides a good transition from dinner to drinks. Grab an after dinner drink at Korat Buri -- let their full bar and live music get your evening underway. After a few, head next door to Bule Saloon and be transported back in time as cover bands play favourites from the 60's and 70's. Different bands play every week so be sure to check the schedule outside. Many more bars are further down the road -- walk a bit and you're sure to find something that tickles your fancy. On the other side of town, a stroll down Yho Tha Rd. presents a quieter vibe with bars dotting the street at regular intervals. In the same neighbourhood, Chom Surang Yat Rd. is home to Korat Texas. Though you may be the only one there, the vintage Aerosmith and Bon Jovi may be enough to keep you occupied while you sip your Singha. To get your groove on, head back towards the monument on Chom Surang Yat, The Fun Factory plays hip-hop until the wee hours of the morn. Other clubs and bars abound.

17 Sisters: 473 Suranari Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily, 18:00-3:00.
Ban Thip: 972 Pho Klang Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Tel: (044) 244 896 Open daily, 11:00-21:30.
Barista: 650 Muangya Centre, Suranari Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily, 10:00-21:00.
Big Chili: 158/8 Chakkri Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily, 17:00-22:00.
Bule Saloon: 264 Yammarat Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima.
Cabbages and Condoms: 1 Suep Siri Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily at 17:00.
Chaodoi Coffee: 14 Atsadang Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily, 14:00-22:00.
Charoenphan Bakery Building: 143 Mahat Thai Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily, 11:00-21:00.
Circle Restaurant: 105/1 Chom Surang Yat Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open Mon - Sat at17:00.
Coffee and Cake: 190/4 Manak Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily, 10:00-22:00.
Dr. Pizza: 1236 Rattanabhithan Rd. Joho. Open daily 17:00-21:00.
Eat Me Bakery: 3/34-35 Mukkhamontri Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily, 10:00-21:00.
Friend's Bar: 86 Soi Lampru 2, Suranari Rd. in front of M in Korat, Nakhon Ratchasima. 17:00-23:30, Closed Mondays.
House of Music: 107/5 Manak Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily, 11:00-21:00..
Korat Buri: Yommarat Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily at 17:00.
Korat Texas: Chom Surang Yat Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima.
Ming Ter: 698 Ratchadamnoen Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily, 8:00-17:00.
Morning Market: Mukkhamontri Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. across from the train station. Open daily, 6:00-11:00.
Pizza Shop: 430 Suranari Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Tel: (044) 261 251 Mon - Sat 17:00-22:00.
Rabiang Kaew: Yommarat Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily at 17:00.
Rabiang Pa: 284 Yommarat Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily at 17:00.
Sav One: Mittraphap Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. on the way out of town towards Bangkok. A # 6 songtheaw will get you there.
Taj Mahal: 1936/4-6 Mittraphap Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. Tel: (044) 263 631 Open daily, 11:30-23:00.
The Fun Factory: Chom Surang Yat Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima. across from Klang Plaza 2.
VFW: Pho Klang Rd. in same building as Siri Hotel, Nakhon Ratchasima. Open daily.
Wat Boon Night Bazaar: at the end of Mahat Thai Rd, Nakhon Ratchasima, Open daily from about 18:00.