Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai has hundreds of restaurants scattered throughout the city, but the area between Tha Phae Gate and the Ping River has the highest concentration.

Tha Pae Gate area
Around Chiang Mai's Thapae Gate area there are literally hundreds of decent eateries ranging from kao soi and fried rice to Mexican burritos and English breakfasts.

On the corner of Thapae Rd opposite the gate is the Art Cafe, a decent place to pass a meal whether it be breakfast, lunch or dinner. The eggs benedict is a highlight dish if you're there early, and later in the day their Mexican and Italian dishes prove popular. It's not the cheapest place, nor the most authentic, but the huge range on the menu means everyone can find something they like. Opposite is a branch of Starbucks, which needs no introduction, and a little further down Thapae Road on the opposite side to Art Cafe is JJ Cafe, which is also popular at breakfast and lunch times with its Thai/Western menus.

Continuing down Thapae Rd, Rattana's Kitchen (opposite Soi 4) is somewhat of an institution. With a cooking school attached the added bonus is that you can learn how to cook the dish you just ate. The food is uniformally delicious and also excellent value; the kao soi is a true delight. Noi's Kitchen &Garden further down the road just past soi 4 is a basic Thai outlet with a pleasant garden at the back. The menu isn't anything awe-inspiring, but the fruit shakes are definitely worth going for.

On the corner of Chiang Moi and Chaiyapoom is the legendary Mike's Burgers, which is somewhat of an institution with the local expat crowd. The burgers are guaranteed to fix any cravings that a trek in the hills may have inspired, and it's open until 3am so makes for a good stop off on the way home from the bars.

Crossing over the moat and into Ratwithi Rd there's an abundance of bar/restaurants which serve the usual blend of Thai/Western menu's. The UN Irish Bar is a good spot for sandwiches and light lunches; they have a decent but slightly overpriced bakery onsite which turns out some super baguettes and rolls. Opposite that is The Wall, a bar dedicated to the rock music of Pink Floyd, although they also play some Stones and Bowie. If you're into good music and fancy a cooked breakfast followed by a game of pool, this is a decent pick.

At the junction of Ratwithi and Ratchapakinai is a small area of beer bars which mainly focus on Reggae music. Tucked on the side of this area is the Salsa Kitchen, a great Mexican place which serves enormous portions. If you like live music you can soak in the sounds of the surrounding bars, and drift onto them after dinner.

Heading northwards up Ratchapakinai, beside the Sumit Hotel, is arguably the best vegetarian restaurant in Thailand, May KaiDee's. May has been cooking vegetarian food in Thailand since 1988 at her Khao San Road outlet in Bangkok, and this is the Chaing Mai branch. The food is nothing short of exceptional, with the Pumpkin Hummus and the Penang Curry both coming highly recommended. Food is served with delicious brown rice.

Back on Moon Muang Road and there's dozens of decent eateries from north to south. Up at the north end on the corner of Soi 9 is Cafe 999, where you can order almost any Thai Food that you could think of, plus a few western favourites such as club sandwich. It's cheap and cheerful, the only downside being that sometimes when it's busy there is a wait for food. A touch further north from here is The House. Set in a fabulously restored house, stylishly decorated and offering contemporary cuisine with a bit of an Asian twist. We loved the tortillas wrapped around grilled vegies and the imaginative cocktails and friendly staff rounded out the experience. Its close proximity to the gorgeous Ginger next door makes this a must-stop on any serious shopping trip to Chiang Mai, and a worthwhile splash out for backpackers.

On the opposite side of the Moat is Miguel's Tex Mex, a Californian style baja Mexican where you can get burritos, enchiladas and tostadas. The food is good, if slightly expensive. Heading south from here about 100 metres you'll come to another branch of Rattana's Kitchen (between Chaiyapoom Soi 1 and 2)

Around the area of Moon Muang Soi 2 and Soi 3 are a smattering of small eateries. You'll find many street carts selling things like Pad Thai, Som Tam or satay, and of course the usual Thai style hot dogs and fish balls. Also along here is Mad Dog Pizza which is pretty self explanatory, and likewise Jerusalem Falafel, which as well as selling Falafel has various pitas and schnitzels.

In Moon Muang Soi 2 opposite the Top North GH is Pum Pui Italian, a classy eatery set in a plush garden with plenty of style. The food is top draw, with pizza's, pasta and delightful mains all recommended.

Last but not least is Aroon Rai, on the Kotcasarn Rd between Loy Kroi and Thapae Rd. Having served the local community for years it's still as popular as ever and whether you opt for the traditional kao soi, pork with garlic or the excellent chicken curry on rice you'll get a tasty and cheap dinner; most dishes are around the 50B mark.

A short walk from here is the THC Roof Top Bar. This popular bar and restaurant is smothered in low tables and axe pillows, creating a great spot to relax over a cold drink while the sun goes down. They have a good vegetarian menu and drink prices are reasonable. It's a popular traveller spot. Downstairs is a hemp textiles shop.

Aroon Rai: Kotcasarn Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 276 947
Art cafe: Thapae Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 206 365
Cafe 999: Moon Muang Soi 9, Chiang Mai.
JJ Cafe: Thapae Rd, Chiang Mai.
Mad Dog Pizza: Moon Muang Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 206 839
May Kaidee's: Ratchapakinai Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(089) 137 3173
Miguels Tex Mex: Chaiyapoom Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 874 148
Mikes Burgers: Chang Moi Rd, Chiang Mai.
Noi's Kitchen and Garden: Thapae Rd, Chiang Mai.
Pum Pui Italian: Moon Muang Soi 2, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 278 209
Rattana's Kitchen: Thapae Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 874 173
Salsa Kitchen: Ratwithi Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(086) 137 0359
Starbucks: Thapae Rd, Chiang Mai.
The House: Moon Muang Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 419 011
The Roof Top Bar: Kotchasarn Rd, Chiang Mai.
The Wall: Ratwithi Rd, Chiang Mai.
UN Irish bar: Ratwithi Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 214 554

Around the night market
If you're not sure what you're in the mood for, or if you have a group of people with differing tastes to please - or if you're just after some genuine, freshly cooked quick Thai food -- Chiang Mai's night markets are by far the best place to grab a bite to eat.

At night, on Moon Muang Road around Sois 6 and 7 a collection of movable stalls spring up selling variations of noodle soups, stir-fries, fried rice and noodle dishes. Prices are dirt cheap, generally between 20 to 40B a dish. The food is tasty, fresh and speedily cooked. Anusarn Food Court, behind the Night Market, has a range of food mostly freshly made to order. There's a lot of fresh seafood, with fish packed in display on ice or tanks with live shellfish to choose from. A little more expensive than other Thai street food, a meal here is still relatively inexpensive.

Galare Food Court in the Night Market is divided into two sections, catering to two different entertainment shows. One half serves food from a mix of nationalities. Food is either freshly cooked, for more traditional Thai street foods, or pre-cooked and heated up. From about 7.30 to 9pm, musicians play northern traditional music while women dance on stage in traditional outfits from different northern Thai ethnic groups. More expensive, the other side of Galare Food Court serves more specifically Thai food. This side shows performance Thai boxing in the early part of the evening, and later a katoey or drag queen show.

Located in the heart of the Night Bazaar area of town, Piccola Roma does great, if a little unimaginative, Italian food in an authentic setting. Servings are huge, but they would want to be given the steep prices. You'll get as good Italian food elsewhere in Chiang Mai for less, but this place is very conveniently placed.

The Red Lion is a family-orientated English-style pub that is a bit of a hang out for some of the resident expats. Typical pub grub available. The location is slap in the centre of the night market and is a premium spot for people watching, as well as having a decent pint of your favourite beer.

Crossing the river onto Charoen Rat Rd brings us to the Brasserie. Brasserie is a Chiang Mai favourite for many, as is resident guitarist Took, who nightly pumps out classic Hendrix, Dylan, Cream and the like. Thai and western food is available, but this is definitely more of a place for drinking and gets very loud. Other outlets along this stretch include Riverside; This hugely popular place perched on the banks of the Ping River has drawn big crowds since 1984. The usual Thai standards are well executed. Weekends can get very raucous.

Also on Charoen Rat Rd, The Good View is another renowned and very popular Chiang Mai restaurant. Food can be very good or very ordinary, so this place generally works better as somewhere to drink rather than eat. If you eat, go for the open area out back.

On Charoen Prathet Soi 6, "Le Spice" is a vibrant and colourful eatery serving Thai and Indian cuisine, both with aplomb. Its location just off the night market make it an excellent choice for dinner after walking around the hectic stalls.

Heading out of the market area and back up Loi Kroh road you'll find a bunch of eateries serving all sorts of cuisine; plenty of Thai restaurants of course, such as the excellent Le Bistrot, (part of the Suriwongse Hotel), which serves Thai specialities from 150-200B and western food from 200-600B, or perhaps a pub style dinner at the Hungry Horse, which serves anything from green curry to their legendary 1 kilo steak. Also worth noting here is the 400 gram burger, coming in at a reasonable 250B. There's a free pool table at the back.

Le Bistrot: Loi Kroh Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 270 051
Le Spice: Charoen Prathet Soi 6, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 234 962
Hungry Horse: Loi Kroh Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 279 742
Piccola Roma Palace: 144 Charoen Prathet Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 820 297
Red Lion: 23 Loi Kroh Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 818 847
The Brasserie: 37 Charoen Rat Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 241 665
The Good View: 13 Charoen Rat Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 241 866
The Riverside: 9-11 Charoen Rat Rd, Chiang Mai. T:(053) 243 239