Region: Northern Thailand> Province: Mae Hong Son> Location: Pai

Pai

Abodaya doesn't look much -- a small cluster of tables in the courtyard outside the eponymous guest house -- but the food is quite excellent. If you're searching for some authentic flavours and not dishes which have been toned down to suit western palettes, then Abodaya is where you should be heading. There's a full complement of Thai dishes while non Thai eaters are catered for with a western menu. The home made bread is also very good.

Another fine choice, especially for vegetarians, is Ginger's. Set a little out of the centre of Pai, it's worth the walk. Unobtrusive music, the sound of running water and floor seating create a lovely homey atmosphere. The menu offers a small range of house specialties: curries with tofu or soya protein, stir-fries, soups and a wide range of teas. The menu is interspersed with information about Thai ingredients and healthy foods. They also offer cooking classes.

Continuing with healthy fare, Good Life: Herb and Health Restaurant is a health-conscious cafe serving a range of breakfasts and other basic meals. The daily special of shakshuka and pita or baguette makes a filling and tasty breakfast. Prices are mostly under 40b. They sell herbs and do a good but small range of the ubiquitous shake, as well as 70 varieties of herbal tea. They also operate a Finnish-style sauna, which costs 100B for unlimited time.

Offering the self-proclaimed best food in Pai, Forestry 33 is a well-patronised joint offering a decent selection of Thai food. Service is indeed speedy, but the food, while decent, is uninspiring. The prices however are. With no dish coming in over 59B, and the majority of plates 25-35B, this is the king of the budget eats. A big chang beer is only 39B! You'll find it diagonally across from the bus station.

Duang's Restaurant is one of a couple of restaurants run by the same people as the guesthouse of the same name, this one on the corner of Pai's two main streets has a long menu of mainly Thai dishes but with some international offerings. They feature a selection of local specialties, most notably khao soi and khao soi yam. Prices are a tad higher than most due to the location, but then again the portions are a decent size. The fruit shakes which are only 20B receive 2 thumbs up.

More typical Thai fare can be found at the very friendly Meo's Restaurant, which is right next to the bus station. A family restaurant, Meo's is light on atmosphere but has a great menu, which uses Thai ingredients on a western base such as fried tofu and basil leaves in a pita pocket. Also has croissants and a wide range of shakes, often in combinations not common elsewhere such as mango, carrot, lime and yoghurt.

Right on the corner of Chai Songkram and Khet Khelang roads is the spacious Hut Ing Pai, an open air restaurant which serves all manner of delicious fare. Regular Thai dishes can be found for around 70B, but the fish and western specials are the star attraction. A decent fish fried with chilli will set you back in the region of 150B, and it's a large one too. Steaks, pork chops and other western meat dishes range from 150-200B. Bear in mind that Pai becomes quite congested during peak hours, so the roadside location can be noisy if you go too early.

Pai Corner Restaurant prominently displays a whiteboard covered with compliments, and this Thai-German run restaurant comes highly recommended. Praise is particularly strong for the pizzas and Thai curries which are indeed good, if a little sweet. A mix of Thai, international (with a strong German influence) and vegetarian dishes make this place quite popular.

Serving a full menu of international dishes with a strong European emphasis, Chez Swan heavily promotes the fact that they use imported meats, cheeses and wines. It's well recommended, if you're looking for a little western splash.

Bars and entertainment
Cool, gentle jazz tunes waft out over Edible Jazz's small open-air bar and cafe. A standard range of imported spirits complements a sophisticated coffee selection and a brief but varied and evolving menu. About seven tasty sounding items live up to their descriptions and can be followed by great cakes, including sticky date pudding and banoffee pie. Get in early on a busy night, as once the list of orders mount up, ingredients run out and waiting time increases. Plenty of ground level seating and often a camp fire to sit around. Closed during the low season.

Mellow Yellow is popular with the local expat community -- and the small but groovy bar can be quite jumping at times. They hold parties for special events which are widely advertised. On regular nights it has a more chilled vibe, as the name would suggest. Although they don't serve food, the staff who run the place will feed anyone who is hungry if you're there at the right time in the evening –- that being the time when they eat! The music is generally Reggae or chilled out dub.

Ting Tong Loungegarden boasts an atmospheric, candlelight, bamboo-style with banana palms in situ giving a natural feel to this small bar. The cocktail range isn't huge, but they do proper imported spirits at a reasonable price. Groovy rhythmic beats as well as a funky Thai crowd make this a chilled place to hang out.

Once a tiny laid-back joint, Bebop Bar is now a thriving complex on the outskirts of Pai. This bar is considered by many to be a potent sign of how things have changed in Pai over the past couple of years. The location means that unless you're with a group, have your own transport or are staying at one of the few nearby guesthouses, it's a little isolated to be out at late at night. Live music is played nightly, mostly in the rock and blues genre but the occasional trance/dance music nights are held here too, for a minimal cover charge.