Eat and meet

Trang

Thanks to the city's multicultural community, Trang's dining scene offers a mix of Thai, Chinese, and Malay Muslim flavours. The most famous local speciality is kopii, wood-fire brewed coffee that is served in hole-in-the-wall cafes all over town. It's often taken with Chinese snacks, like dim sum and steamed buns, or with tasty grilled pork. Another dish to look out for is khanom jeen, cold rice noodles topped with curry or a fishy sauce. It's eaten with heaps of fresh green herbs and vegetables, which add a crunchy texture. Lastly, look out for the Trang cake -- a spongy delicacy that comes in coffee, orange, and durian flavours.

One of the best places to eat in Trang is the town's night market, which sets up every evening behind city hall. It's the best place in town to find khanom jeen, and you can also try barbecued chicken, Muslim curries, and fried fish dumplings.

Located almost next door to the train station, Sin-o-cha is a modern update on the local kopii shops. While their view of the parking lot isn't exactly attractive, they make up for it with clean modern decor, and friendly wait staff. In addition to the delicious local brew, they serve cake, pastries and Chinese steamed buns. If you're feeling hungrier than that, you can also order sandwiches or small Thai rice meals. Come early for their Western and Thai breakfasts, including rice porridge soup, pancakes, and muesli with fruit.

The restaurant in the lobby of the Koh Teng goes far beyond the standard of most hotel restaurants -- even drawing crowds of locals at lunchtime. The open-fronted restaurant has definite retro charm -- perhaps a better way to soak up the atmosphere at the Koh Teng's than by staying there. They have a simple English menu, offering chicken fried with cashews, beef and chili, and massaman curry among other general Thai dishes. Skip their kopii though -- it doesn't match up to the quality you'll get elsewhere in town.

With tables arranged under a thatched roof and surrounded by tropical plants, Ban Tanai is one of the most inviting coffee shops in town. They have an English menu, though it is a little confusing -- one item was listed simply as 'steam'. Instead, it may be better to wait for them to bring the tray of dim sum around, and pick a few plates that look tempting. Most drinks and dim sum cost around 20 baht, making it a cheap spot for a snack or a light meal. Their sign doesn't show their name in English, but they're not hard to find -- they're on Rama VI Rd, across from City Hall, and directly opposite a bizarre statue of two children frolicking with a dugong.

If you're craving Western fare, head to Wunderbar, on Sathani Rd. They offer burgers, salads and pizzas, along with a few Thai dishes, in a laid-back setting. It's also a decent place to get a beer in the evening, as it may be the closest Trang comes to having an ex-pat scene.