Hanoi

Eat and meet

Street food

Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su

Great for pho

10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem District

The advantage here is that the pho is just as good or better than what you might just happen across elsewhere, and the hygienic standards are decidedly better. You'll pass by the kitchen and get a look for yourself on your way to the tables, which are solid wooden numbers with standard sized ... read more
Pho Cuon Hung Ben

No problem getting a seat here

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh District
T: (04) 3829 2040

One of numerous pho cuon joints around the junction of Nguyen Khac Hieu and Ngu Xa, on Truc Bach island, Pho Cuon Hung Ben seems to continually expand. This means there's usually no problem getting a seat. Seating at number 26 is on small stools, whereas 20 metres away you'll find some higher ... read more
Dong Thinh Nha Hang Mien Luon

Fried eel

87 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem District
T: (04) 3836 7943

Don't let the thought of fried eels put you off trying this delicious local dish. The eel in mien luon is cut into thin strips and deep fried in a light batter -- it could really be almost anything. Mien is a type of noodle made from arrowroot or canna root and is quite distinctive from pho, bun ... read more
Bun Bo Nam Bo

Rub shoulders with the locals

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem District
T: (04) 3923 0701

This place is popular with local office workers and it's a frenetic scene at noon. Just squeeze into a seat on a shared bench and they'll bring you a bowl of noodles, beef and herbs topped with crispy fried onions. Order some nem chua -- fermented pork rolls wrapped in banana leaves -- on the side ... read more
47 Ma May

Don't wear white

47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District

Always full to overflowing with a mix of locals and foreigners, 47 Ma May, on one of the liveliest streets in Old Quarter, serves up bo nuong, a DIY grill-style dish. Order a platter of raw meat and veg, along with any extras such as bread and fries, and cook it up on the red-hot griddle pan. ... read more
Xoi Yen

Give it a go

35 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem District
T: (043) 825 1755

Xoi is a kind of Vietnamese sticky rice, topped traditionally with shavings of lotus root and roasted garlic. Nowadays though, they'll put anything you like on top: chicken, pork ribs, fish, eggs and so on. It's a quick, warm, belly-filling meal. The specific place we're steering you to, Xoi ... read more
Bun Cha

Delicious!

47c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung District

Mai Hac De, south of Hoan Kiem and near Vincom Towers, is lined with eateries, and a few of them offer bun cha. Although not as central as the more famous bun cha place on Hanh Manh, 47 Mai Hac De serves up delicious bowls of dipping sauce and pork and the nem (fried spring rolls) are a truly ... read more
Banh Cuon Pho Ly

Simple but moreish

39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem District

Banh cuon are rice flour rolls usually stuffed with ground pork, prawns and mushroom. The pho ly version served at this eatery, on an oft missed alley between Ma May and Luong Ngoc Quyen, differs from that, in that it is simply wide strips of flat noodle topped with slices of grilled pork and ... read more

Vietnamese

Net Hue

A taste of Hue in Hanoi

204b Hang Bong Street
T: (04) 3938 1795

A wide range of tempting dishes from Hue are available at this wonderful place on the edge of food street. The bun bo Hue is delicious, and a meal in itself, but you'll struggle not to order up a selection of the other delights, which include banh nam and bun thit nuong (noodles with grilled beef). ... read more
Quan An Ngon

Popular traditional Vietnamese food

18 Phan Boi Chau
T: (04) 3942 8162

Don't expect a quiet romantic dinner as this place is as noisy and raucous as Hanoi itself. Sit inside or at the shared tables outside under a web of sail-like awnings. Surrounding you on all sides are little food stalls dishing up specialties like green papaya salad, fresh spring rolls, clams in ... read more
New Day

A wonderful combination of beauties

72 Ma May, Hoan Kiem District
T: (04) 3828 0315;(04) 926 2436

New Day is one of those places that seems to attract a mix of local Vietnamese and visitors throughout the day. Its appeal is aided by the roadside tables but it's the consistently good authentic Vietnamese food that keeps people coming back. Cheaper food can be found at street stalls but if ... read more
Highway 4

Bush food without going bush

3 Hang Tre St, Hoan Kiem District
T: (04) 3926 0639

Highway 4 now operates out of five locations in Hanoi, with this one on Hang Tre being next to the original restaurant, which was knocked down in 2010. The menu is the same at each -- best described as Asian fusion, with an emphasis on the eclectic, and you'll find a wide range of dishes to suit ... read more
Ladybird

Cheap and good

57 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem District
T: (04) 3926 1863

This place seems to have become busier since our last write-up and was heaving with groups of diners on our last visit. It's a cosy place, with traditional paintings and carvings lining the walls, and a small terrace awaits the lucky few. The menu includes a good selection of Vietnamese food ... read more
Cha Ca La Vong

Traditional but not cheap

14 Cha Ca St, Hoan Kiem District
T: (04) 3825 3929

The original cha ca restaurant, this place continues to attract both Vietnamese and foreign custom Cha Ca La Vong serves just the one dish which gives it its name: fish served sizzling on a platter with dill sauce, fresh herbs, noodles and crushed peanuts. The ambience is undeniably authentic ... read more

Other Asian

Namaste

Rave reviews

47 Lo Su
T: (04) 3935 2400

The newest addition to Indian dining in Hanoi, Namaste gets consistently great reviews. The food is authentic and top notch, the restaurant's elegant and modern -- though a bit too bright to be cosy -- and the owner, Gopi, is usually on hand to help you get the most out of your dining experience ... read more
Izakaya Yancha

Sublime

121 Trieu Viet Vuong
T: (04) 3974 8437

If you're after Japanese then head to the area just north of Vincom Towers, where you'll find a few quality options. Izakaya Yancha is a particularly excellent choice, serving fantastic food in a warm and inviting environment. The downstairs is bar-style, where you can sit and watch the ... read more

Western

La Badiane

Simply amazing

10 Nam Ngu
T: (04) 3942 4509

Under the direction of French chef Benjamin Rascalou, La Badiane (French for star anise) serves up fantastic continental cuisine. For a real meat feast, try the carpaccio followed by the sublime Australian tenderloin. Many would agree that this is the best steak in Hanoi -- if not the world -- ... read more
The Cart

Tasty sandwiches

18 Au Trieu (enter through the alley just behind Au Trieu St)
T: (04) 3928 7715

At the Cart, try the succulent meatloaf with spicy black bean sauce or the crumbed chicken breast with lemon mayonnaise. Once you've put that away, wash it down with one of the many healthy fruit juice concoctions on offer. The carrot-cucumber-pineapple-celery mix is a great pick-me-up. Espresso ... read more
Cafe 129

Appearances are deceptive

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung District

From the outside Cafe 129 looks like your average coffee shop Take one glance at the menu though and it tells you it's not: omelettes, international fry-ups, nachos and vitamin-packed juices line the pages. It's all good and although the prices are higher than you might expect, the dishes ... read more
Saint Honore

Cake and breakfast heaven

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi
T: (04) 3933 2355

Located in the classy West Lake area, this old European-style bistro and bakery serves up some of the best baked goods and breakfasts in Hanoi. Mountains of sweet and savoury pastries and crepes or eggs benedict made from scratch are impossible to resist, but our favourite is the Saint Honore, a ... read more
DC Bistro

French fusion easy on the wallet

15A Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung District, Hanoi
T: (04) 3944 0288

A relatively new arrival from award-winning Hanoi chef, Didie Corlou, DC Bistro offers fantastic food in a more casual and less expensive setting than nearby La Verticale, also a Corlou creation. The restaurant occupies an old two-storey building that features a wine shop downstairs and a cosy ... read more
Puku Cafe

All night chillout

16-18 Tong Duy Tan
T: (04) 3938 1745

With its comfortable sofas, relaxing tunes, tasty smoothies and comfort food, Puku is a great place to kick back and relax This is the case particularly if you're looking for somewhere to update your travel blog, or just check your email. The terrace at the front offer a few tables, sought ... read more
Provecho

Wide variety

18 Hang Be
T: (0912) 223 966

The owners of the now shuttered My Burger My opened this new restaurant in 2011. As with the previous establishment, it continues to deliver solid Western fare, with some Vietnamese thrown in -- not surprising since the owners are an American-Vietnamese couple. Owner cum chef Daniel Hoyer has ... read more
La Place

A charming, peaceful spot

4 Au Trieu, Hoan Kien District
T: (04) 3928 5859

Head upstairs to the small roof terrace or the light and airy first floor of La Place. Upstairs is scattered with brightly coloured throws, propaganda posters and crayons provided so that children and the young at heart can draw on the brown paper table cloths. Unfortunately the food's nothing ... read more
KOTO

A great cause

59 Van Mieu
T: (04) 3747 0337

KOTO was established in to provide training and jobs in hospitality for underpriveledged street kids in Hanoi. Its current restaurant incarnation is set near the Temple of Literature, and is a convenient spot to drop by for a snack -- their cakes are well worth blowing the diet for -- or a full ... read more
Joma

Tasty bakery fare

22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem District
T: (04) 3718 6071

Despite a lack of motorbike parking, the Old Quarter branch of Joma has survived, and so it should. Bagels are chunky and squidgy, and one of their tasty sandwiches, accompanied by a side salad or soup, makes a filling lunch or light dinner. Drinks are good too -- the mint lemon freeze is ... read more
Au Lac do Brazil II

All-you-can eat barbecue buffet

6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh
T: (04) 3845 5224

For a meat feast served up with professionalism and decent wine, head to Au Lac Do Brazil. There are better places in town if you're after a simple decent steak, but for a fixed price here you'll get as much beef, lamb, pork, chicken, fish and sides as you can squeeze in -- and the beef is still ... read more
La Salsa Tapas Bar and Restaurant

A fine choice

25 Nha Tho
T: (04) 3828 9052

The menu here is a bit of a mix: while tapas dishes dominate, they also have a pasta menu and throw in a small selection of appetizers, salads and meat mains. It's a decent option for a change of cuisine or a group meal -- try for upstairs seating for a better atmosphere -- but opinion on the food ... read more
Gecko

Right in the heart of things

22 Luong Ngoc Quyen
T: (04) 3926 2382

Gecko's not the top value option it once was but the food's consistently decent. Add to this the pleasant atmosphere, good lighting, comfortable seating, decent drinks prices and relaxing music and you've got a solid choice for this part of town. The menu is extensive, with a selection of ... read more
Commune

Great food and a view to die for

20A Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho, Hanoi
T: (04) 6684 7903

Situated in an enviable position overlooking West Lake, Commune is a new edition to Hanoi's food scene that offers, well, just about everything. Come for a filling breakfast on a Sunday afternoon (served until 15:00 during the week and 17:00 on weekends), or stop by for a roast ... read more

Snacking

Cong Caphe

For coffee aficionados

152D Trieu Viet Vuong

Known unofficially as Hanoi's coffee street, you'll find a slew of cafes where Hanoi's youth while away the hours sipping strong cups of java. Order a classic caphe sua da (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk), settle in and watch Hanoi street life passing you by. A great place to sample the ... read more
Anh Hoa Bakery

Sesame topped loaves

38 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem District
T: (04) 3928 6689

Although plenty of bakeries are to be found in the centre of the Old Quarter, seek out Anh Hoa Bakery, on the corner of Phoung Hung and Tran Phu. This tiny place is worth the walk for the sesame topped loaves alone. But the deliciously beautiful cakes are enticing too and the staff is efficient and ... read more

Drinking

Hanoi Rock City

THE music venue in Hanoi

27/52 To Ngoc Van

Thank goodness for Hanoi Rock City, an accessible venue for live music and DJs. The main bar area is outside, and a good spot for a drink in its own right, and the music's on in the Red Room upstairs. You'll find good music, good beer, a good atmosphere, and it's open late. Check out their ... read more
Blah Blah

Intimate, friendly and well-priced

59b Hang Be, Hoan Kiem
T: (0972) 887 252

Named "blah blah" not because it's boring but rather due to it being a good spot to chitchat with other travellers, there's something about this narrow but cute three-storey bar/restaurant that we adore. It gets obvious points for the cheap Tiger beer served in frosty glasses (well-priced cocktails ... read more
Minh's Jazz Club

Go, man, go!

3rd Floor, Hot Life Café, 65 Quan Su
T: (04) 3942 0400

If you're a jazz aficionado, you're in for a hefty dose of Trane and Bird with a side of Miles at Minh's Jazz Club. There's no cover, but the drinks are double what you pay elsewhere, so just nurse your beer and shout, 'Go, man, go!' Highly recommended. The band starts at 21:00 sharp and plays ... read more
Mao's Red Lounge

Decked out in red

7 Ta Hien
T: (04) 3926 3104

Popular with expats, Mao's is a tiny, two-storey bar at the northern end of Ta Hien, run by the likeable Mr Mao. Drinks are cheap, the music's a good mix and there's usually quite a crowd holed up there -- particularly after official closing time. Downstairs is home to the bar and can get mighty ... read more
Irish Wolfhound

Perfect on a warm day

4 Luong Ngoc Quyen
T: (04) 2212 6821

With streetside seating and an open plan that makes the inside feel like it's outside, the Wolfhound is a good alternative to nearby bia hoi corner. When you want a choice of beverage, more comfortable seating, music -- albeit sometimes bad music -- and a decent toilet, this is a good option. ... read more
Bar Betta

Great roof terrace

34C Cao Ba Quat
T: (04) 3734 9134

Not far from the Fine Arts Museum, Bar Betta is a quirky cafe bar hidden away up a narrow flight of stairs. The inside area is like Aladdin's Cave, full of retro treasures, and the roof terrace is a great spot for watching the stars -- when the smog clears -- or just chilling with friends and ... read more
Polite Pub

Pub-like

5 Bao Khanh
T: (04) 3825 0959

Bao Khanh used to be more of a traveller ghetto, and perhaps the worse for it, but that crowd seems to have shifted towards the Ma May area. The road's still full of bars and restaurants though, and Polite Pub is worth the trip. It's got a real pub feel to it, with beer -- Tiger and Carlsberg -- ... read more
Half Man Half Noodle

For the rockers

62 Dao Duy Tu
T: (04) 3926 1943

The refurbishment since our last update has brought with it additional space upstairs. Although downstairs retains the same slightly grunge-y look -- and aroma -- it's always had. But that's part of Half Man Half Noodle's appeal, as is the rock music, which makes a refreshing change from dance ... read more
Hair of the Dog

Buckets!

32 Ma May

The move from its original location on Hang Giay has been a positive step. The new location has more space overall and a comfy area upstairs, if you want to escape the dance floor and bustle of downstairs. This is a good place to head if you want to meet other travellers, particularly between ... read more
Phuc Tan Bar

Late hours

51 To Gian Alley, Phuc Tan

Phuc Tan bar, formerly The Lighthouse, is a big nightclub with a huge area for dancing, along with a patio out back with views of the river and Chuong Duong bridge. It's crowded, dirty and the toilets are rated as the worst in Hanoi but it's a popular spot for late night drinks and a dance, ... read more
Dragonfly

Shisha water pipes

15 Hang Buom

Once the party place to be for backpackers and young expats, Dragonfly seems to have lost out a bit to new competition. But don't rule it out: there's a pool table, a small, crowded dance floor, and the option of some quieter seating upstairs where you can kick back and smoke a shisha water pipe. ... read more
Bia hoi corner

Popular and cheap

Intersection of Luong Ngoc Quyen and Ta Hien streets

Things usually start off in the late afternoon at bia hoi corner, the intersection of Luong Ngoc Quyen and Ta Hien streets, just north of Hoan Kiem Lake. There are two outfits at the junction itself and a couple of other places just down Luong Ngoc Quyen, all serving fresh bia hoi for 5,000 dong ... read more