Region: Northwest Vietnam> Province: Lao Cai> Location: Bac Ha

Bac Ha

The Congfu Restaurant remains a popular choice -- the speciality of the house is thit lon nuong, which is simply grilled pork, but many attempts at western dishes are on the menu, especially breakfasty eggy, meusli, bready, banan-pancakey selections. Noodles and spring rolls are also on offer. Congfu now has a posher incarnation (with the same menu) on the ground floor of the Congfu Hotel, with market views from your dining table.

The Thanh Son Restaurant, across from the bus station, serves up similar fare, but has a very colourful, cheerful interior and features some pleasant streetside tables from which to watch the crowds go by. Look for starters like pumpkin or potato soup, and veggie dishes are also available. For a more adventurous dinner, try Hoa Ngan Restaurant, which serves up lau de (goat hotpots) -- there are more market views and they are open very, very late.

The Hoa Ngan should not be confused with the Ngan Nga, at the hotel of the same name around the corner, which offers quick breakfasts for foreigners on their way out of town, or cold drinks for the ones settling in for the evening, at some tables right on the street. The Hoang Yen Bar across from the Sao Mai Hotel is another entry in the same category, and good tour services are also on the menu.

Cong Fu Restaurant: Near the Market, Bac Ha. T: (020) 880 254 893. Hours: 06:00-21:00.
Hoa Ngan Restaurant: T: (020) 880 736. Hours: 08:00-02:00.
Hoang Yen Bar: Sapa Green Travel: Across from the Sao Mai Hotel, Bac Ha. T: (0912) 005 952. Hours: 07:00-22:00.
Thanh Son Restaurant: Across from the bus station, Bac Ha. T: (020) 880 407. Hours: 06:00-22:00.