Region: Northern Laos> Province: Luang Prabang> Location: Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang

In a sidestreet adjacent to the Royal Museum, and with outside tables presenting a view of the Royal Wat, the long-running Phousi Restaurant has a good reputation, and rightly so. They do a wide range of Lao and specifically Luang Prabang dishes, both delicious and cheap. Highly recommended are the Chu Chi Pa, LPB chicken and eggplant with spicy sauce, and bamboo or lemongrass stuffed with minced pork. They also have a full drink list.

Several small open-air restaurants line the banks of the Mekong. View Kheam Khong has a seating area by the roadside, but also a larger, paper lantern-lit section further down the riverbank, towards the water and off the road. The menu is not as extensive as the other restaurants, but they serve traditional and local dishes very well, in a tourist-friendly setting. Evidence of the authenticity of their dishes and their fair prices can be seen in the number of Lao people often eating here. Highly recommended is the Luang Prabang sausage, the minced pork and tofu soup, and laap, a salad of minced meat and herbs. They do have a tofu version, but the pieces are a bit large and deeply fried.

A longstanding favourite with tour groups and independent travellers alike, L'Elephant serves mainly French-style Western food, and does it very well. Vegetarian options are well covered, as are good quality steaks and an Asian food set menu. Not for those on a budget, but well worth it for the sophisticated ambience and fine dining.

Under the umbrella of the 3 Nagas Boutique Hotel, 3 Nagas and Mango 3 Nagas are housed in old heritage-listed buildings and face each other in a blaze of warm lighting on the main street. One side serves authentic Lao food, while Mango 3 Nagas across the road serves fusion Asian and Western cuisine. The Lao side does an excellent job of presenting a menu of truly authentic Lao food, a rarity in Lao restaurants. While the prices are much higher than usually expected around Laos, the presentation and quality of the ingredients is first-rate.

In an elegant setting looking out over the Nam Khan, The Apsara arguably serves the best food in Luang Prabang. A limited but mouth-watering selection of Asian and Western fusion dishes are on offer, with an extensive international wine list. Definitely recommended for their whole fish in tamarind sauce.

Tucked away behind Phousi Mountain is L'etranger Books and Tea -- a charming bookshop, tearoom and gallery where you can buy, exchange or rent books, check out the current art installation or sit upstairs and read or chat. They show a movie each night at 19:00, claiming to favour art over action. A selection of light fare is served all day as well as an extensive tea and drink menu. A great spot to chill out.

Tamnak Lao -- Three Elephants Restaurant is one of the best restaurants on the main tourist strip. One of the few restaurants in town to serve a full range of Lao dishes, they are very popular with tour groups and can get very busy, so be sure to pack your patience. It's difficult to choose between fish steamed in banana leaves with lemongrass, the green curry with chicken and vegetables, or the eggplant with minced pork and garlic. They now also offer a cooking class, running for a full day at $25. It is best to book in advance. They also have a highly celebrated sister restaurant in Vientiane.

If you're looking to experience genuine Lao food, then a great find is Tamarind: A taste of Laos, directly facing beautiful Wat Nong temple in the old quarter. Open only during the day, they specialise in tasting platters for sampling a range of Lao foods that you won't see in regular cafes, including original fruit drinks unlike anything else in Luang Prabang. Also worth noting are the traditional Lao-style meals that can be ordered a day in advance. Certainly worth a try.

Tum Tum Bamboo has joined the Lao food scene and offers a delicious array of tempered-for-Western- palates selections right on the main strip. The ambience is lovely and dimly lit with paper lanterns and golden Buddhas grace the walls. The food is tasty and eclectic with choices ranging from traditional curries and soups to fusion salads that mix grilled meats or vegetables with condiments like pesto and dahl, topped off with the unlikely addition of potato chips.

Joma -- sister to the famed in Vientiane - has made its way to Luang Prabang and is equally charming and delicious. Their extensive menu covers everything from breakfast to dessert and you could eat every meal here and not be disappointed. Eggs are scrambled to perfection, bagel sandwiches are reminiscent of the best ones at home, the quiche is outstanding, and the lasagne superb. Portions are generous and many dishes are accompanied by a hearty salad. Dessert is sublime and highly recommended.

If you're staying on the Mekong - or even if you're not - hit Saffron for breakfast. Their coffee is reason enough (French press) as it is locally and organically grown and roasted on-site, but the food doesn't disappoint either. Breakfast choices are ample and this is one of the few places that serves actual granola and not soggy muesli. With baked goods aplenty and the refreshing river breeze, this is a great place to start the day. Lunchers fare just as well with an impressive 'build your own' sandwich menu and dinner diners will drool over their Luang Prabang specialties.

For the best pizza in town, head to The Pizza Luang Prabang. Their crust is chewy-crisp and their range of toppings is extensive. A close second is Scandinavian Bakery on the same road and with a similarly staggering selection ranging from 'Mr Bacon' to the Mexican-themed 'Amigo' with a menu that's organised in a sophisticated class system -- leave it to the Swedes. For a not-so-distant third, the pizza at Hive isn't bad and comes with a free Beer Lao for happy hour which just may make it the best deal of the lot.

Paradise, while it may not live up to the moniker, tries hard and gets points for that. Indeed, the courtyard is pretty and overflowing with verdant vegetation that hangs languidly from a high pergola and the menu - though generic - has a lot to offer by way of traditional Thai and Western favourites. The food is somewhat bland, but even that is overlooked in light of the sweet and helpful staff.

Pond View Terrace is a scenic little spot hidden from the street by swaying bamboo and set around a small lily pad pond. Palm-shaded tables are rustic and bench seating makes room for everybody, though it is equally well suited for a more intimate gathering. They serve a selection of tasty Western, Lao, and Thai dishes at very reasonable prices, though some portions are on the small side. Pond View is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner and is a great place to take a break and spend some time with a good book.

Couleur Cafe is a lovely place tucked away on a quiet street not far from the centre of town. The menu, featuring Lao and French dishes, is definitely a draw with choices from more regional fare -- curries and the like -- to French favourites with a spin like chicken filet mignon served with cream and grilled mushrooms. Be sure to save room for dessert. Even more compelling than the food is Couleur's atmosphere, which like its cuisine, gracefully mixes Asian influences with an upscale French flavour. The result is a languid and beautiful spot with antiqued ceiling fans and richly carved wood fixtures. Eat in the breezy interior or alfresco on the brick patio shaded by a tres French awning.

Blue Lagoon comes highly recommended and does much to meet expectations. The setting is tranquil and lush with greenery all around and soft lighting at night. The menu is eclectic, hovering between Asian classics and European delights, all artfully prepared and presented. Standouts include a steak cordon bleu and simmering Indian curry. This is a place to be pampered and pampering comes at a price. While theirs are higher than most around town - entrees range from 50 to 80,000 kip - it's a worthwhile splurge if you have the funds and half of what the same restaurant would cost at home. Their wine and drink list is extensive making it a lovely place to stop for a drink if you don't fancy a meal there,

Nazim is a well-known Laos chain (with franchises in Vang Vieng and Vientiane) and serves consistently good Indian food at reasonable prices. Centred on the main drag, it's not much for ambience and food seems to take a long time to prepare, but when it's delivered, the tasty dishes are piping hot and satisfying. All of the Indian standards are here, plus some lesser-known delicacies like masala dosa - a thin and crispy-chewy crepe filled with a savoury potato mixture.

And finally, for the steal of the century, a vegetarian buffet is set up nightly by the craft market. Options change daily but usually include an assortment of vegetables, noodles, and rice all for 5,000 kip/plate - and you fill your own plate. The best are the yellow potatoes - if you're lucky enough to score them. The price seems to fluctuate with the season, so if you're visiting during Pimai expect to pay more. The informal stand has tables for eating and also sells beer and other refreshment to wash all that food down.

3 Nagas and Mango: 3 Nagas Sakkarine Rd, Ban Wat Sene, Luang Prabang, Tel: (071) 253 750 ; (071) 253 749. Open daily 10:30-14:00 and 17:00-22:00.
Blue Lagoon: Ban Choumkhong, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 253 698. Web: www.blue-lagoon-café.com Open daily 10:00-22:00.
Couleur Cafe: 48/5 Ban Wat Nong Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 254 694. Open daily 11:00-14:30 and 16:30-22:30.
Joma: Chao Fa Ngum Rd, Luang Prabang. Tel: (021) 412 792. Open daily 07:00-21:00
L'Elephant: Ban Wat Nong, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 252 482. Open daily 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-22:00.
L'etranger Books and Tea: Phousi Rd, Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang. Open daily, 07:00-22:00.
Nazim: Sisavangvong Rd, Ban Xieng Mouane, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 253 493 Open daily 11:00-21:30
Paradise Restaurant: 45 Phamahapatsaman Rd, Luang Prabang. No phone. Open daily, 08:00-22:00.
Phousi Restaurant: 29 Ban Choumkong, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 212 973 Open daily, 07:00-21:30.
Pond View Terrace: Wisunalat Rd, Ban Vixoun, Luang Prabang. Tel: (020) 554 5995. Open daily 07:00-22:30
Saffron: Khem Kong Rd, Ban Wat Sene, Luang Prabang. Tel: (020) 539 9557. Open daily 07:00-19:00.
Scandinavian Bakery: Sisavangvong Rd, Luang Prabang. No phone. Open daily 06:00-22:00 with pizza service starting at 11:00.
Tamarind: A Taste of Laos: Ban Wat Nong, Luang Prabang. Tel: (020) 777 0484. Web: www.tamarindlaos.com Open daily during daylight hours.
Tamnak Lao; Three Elephants Restaurant: Sakkarine Rd, Ban Wat Sene, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 252 525. Web: www.tamnaklao.net Open daily 9:00-22:30.
The Apsara: Kingkitsarath Rd, Ban Wat Sene on the Nam Khan, Tel: (071) 254 670. Web: www.theapsara.com. Open daily 07:00-22:00.
The Pizza: Luang Prabang Sisavangvong Rd, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 253 858. Open daily 08:00- 22:30.
Tum Tum Bamboo: Sisavangvong Rd, Ban Xieng Mouane, Luang Prabang. Tel: (020) 678 2373. Open daily, 07:30-22:00.
Vegetarian Buffet: Sisavangvong Rd, Luang Prabang. No phone, Open daily from about 17:00 to about 21:00 or until all the food is gone.
View Kheam Khong: 5/49 Khem Khong Rd, Ban Xieng Mouane, Luang Prabang Tel: (071) 212 726. Open daily 07:30-22:00.

Bars and entertainment
The backpackers flock to Hive, with its loud thumping music and live DJ. The front holds a small terrace with low tables perfect for a chat on a balmy night, and respite from the heat inside. A large cocktail list features the usual suspects as well as lower priced versions of the classics with a twist: they are powered by local lao lao or rice whisky. They hold regular themed parties, the best being at Halloween, New Year's Eve and Christmas, when the decorations transform the usual bar atmosphere into a festive and imaginative art installation made from recycled materials. Their happy hour every day from 17:00 to 21:00 features two-for-one drinks and free big Beer Laos with every pizza order.

Once known as Cruisin' Gate, Khob Chai did a turn as a gay club before taking on its current persona under new ownership. Now catering to a more mixed crowd, they still hold lady boy shows on special occasions. The drinks list is extensive, with an emphasis on Lao alcohol. Take-away canned beer is also available at a price.

Associated with Khob Chai across the road, Lao Lao Garden took off in early 2006 and is a great spot for backpacker fun, with an open-air layout, nightly bonfires and occasional live performance art (bring instruments and juggling balls to join in). They serve a wide range of food from traditional Lao-style 'barbecue' to western burgers and buffalo steaks. Their adjoining pool hall and sports bar deliver further diversions.

Further down the same road, The House is the newcomer to the scene and caters to the same palates. Drinks, food and open-air ambience are served at fair prices. Of note is their selection of Belgian beers.

Set in a beautiful French colonial around the corner, Martin's Pub has an extensive menu featuring traditional pub food along with some generic Asian dishes and a full range of drinks. Moviesare shown daily at 18:00 downstairs.

Pack Luck is one of a few new wine bars on the main tourist strip. As would be expected, it features an extensive wine list and has something to fit every budget. The interior is a deep red and sidewalk tables are candle-lit. Just about as warm and cosy as a glass of pinot. Baravin -- another just down the road from Pack Luck -- is the less atmospheric of the two and receives further demerits for its short pours. On the plus side, it has glasses for just a dollar.

Baravin: 59 Sisavangvong Rd, Ban Xieng Mouane, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 254 986. Open daily, 18:00-22:00.
Hive: Phousi Rd, Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang. No phone. Open daily, 14:00-23:30.
Khob Chai: Phousi Rd, Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang. Tel: (020) 997 0106. Open daily, 17:00-23:30.
Lao Lao Garden: Phousi Rd, Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang. Tel: (020) 997 0106. Open daily, 08:00-23:30.
Martin's Pub: Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang. Tel: (020) 5673 148. Open daily, 08:00-23:30
Pack Luck: Sakkarine Rd, Ban Wat Sene, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 253 373. Open daily, 09:00-24:00.
The House: Phousi Rd, Ban Aphai, Luang Prabang. Tel: (071) 255 021. Web: www.luangprabang-restaurant.com. Open daily, 17:00-23:30.