Coolie Noodles (in Thai: ba mee jap gang)

Everything a coolie needs

Photo of Coolie Noodles (in Thai: ba mee jap gang)

What we say: 4 stars

From the corner of Charoen Krung Rd and Plaeng Nam Road, turn left into the first alley on the north side of the road and look on the right for a man slinging big bowls of noodles around under a sign with a picture of yellow noodles on it.

Coolie noodles descend from a time when Chinese immigrants to Thailand were normally menial labourers, who at the end of a long day had earned a giant bowl of noodles, slick with pork fat, littered with green spring onions and hiding slices of roasted pork.

Even if you haven't spent the day hauling things, this bowl of noodles is a required indulgence. The chewy noodles are amazing, so pull up a chair to a rickety table and order: taamada or phiiset (regular or large), heng or naam (dry or in broth).

Those are all the options a coolie needs. Regular 30 baht, large 35 baht. Be patient -- the restaurant often draws long queues of locals waiting for tables and take-away.

MRT: Hualamphong (plus a long walk)
No phone, bathroom, or sink.

Contact details
Half way down the alley from Charoen Krung Rd, Right-side, close to Wat Mangon
Open: Daily 10:30-18:30

In depth review

Read a more in depth review of Coolie Noodles (in Thai: ba mee jap gang) on the Travelfish blog.

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