Region: Bangkok And Surrounds> Province: Bangkok> Location: Bangkok » Sukhumvit Asok to Ekamai

Upper Sukhumvit

Much like lower Sukhumvit, upper Sukhumvit is bustling and filled with options for dining and nightlife. While this area, particularly Thong Lo and Ekamai, tends to cater to locals and expats, for travellers looking for more than your typical tourist scene, this area has a great diversity of dining and nightlife.

The stretch pretty much beings with Soi Cowboy, which runs off Soi 23, parralel to Sukhumvit and just beyond BTS Asok. While Soi Cowboy is one of the main farang oriented red-light districts, there are several decent dining options in the vicinity of the soi.

Emporium is the next landmark -- the large shopping centre and condo is packed with shops, cinemas and more than a couple of yummy places to eat and this diversity of eateries has overflowed into the immediate surrounds -- take the BTS to Phrom Phong and you won't have to look far for food.

Soi Thong Lo, which branches off Sukhumvit at BTS Thong Lo, is another foodie favourite and is one of the most popular hang-outs in Bangkok. From the food stalls and fruit vendors at the mouth of the soi, down past numerous tea houses, barbeque restaurants, and a few upscale gentleman's club's, the road eventually passes by some of the trendiest restaurants, bars, cafes and shopping venues in the city before ending at Petchaburi Road. The street has become a favourite of the young and trendy yuppie Thai crowd with disposable income to spend drinking, dining, and shopping day in and out; even the Starbucks, built in a converted residence, is a happening place to see and be seen. While many tourists don't venture down this way, it is worth a visit to see how the other half of Bangkok society lives.

Further east lies Soi 63, better known as Ekamai. Much like Thong Lo, Ekamai's is loaded with restaurants and bars, although they are concentrated in some areas more than others, primarily along the sub-sois rather than on the main road itself.

Thai
Heading down Sukhumvit Soi 22, you'll reach a small sub-soi on the right where the tiny, but popular Ruan Thaptim restaurant sits. A few of the dishes are fairly average but on the whole the selection is excellent and the majority of the offerings are incredibly tasty.

Across the road and down Soi 23 is Baan Khanitha, a Bangkok institution which has recently opened a new branch on Sathorn Road. The Soi 23 branch is a Thai-style house set in a lovely garden. The food is very good although, like Lemongrass (see below), the prices are high. It's nevertheless a decent choice for good Thai food in an atmospheric setting.

Heading further along Sukhumvit, past Emporium you'll reach Soi 24 and Lemongrass, which is set in a lovely wooden house and serves great Thai food that is spiced down for foreigners' palates. The servings are very small, making the steep prices a bit of a sting but service is prompt and professional and imaginative flower arrangements are a nice touch.

A bit farther up Sukhumvit on Soi 36 is Vientiane Kitchen, an outstanding Lao and Isaan restaurant; one of Bangkok's highlights, both for locals and tourists. Set in a massive wooden house and courtyard around a large tree, the atmosphere is enlivened by performances of north-eastern and Lao music that isn't as tacky as it might sound. The food is great -- it comes very spicy -- and is reasonably priced.

Further east, satisfy your budget cravings at one of the food stalls located across the street from Thong Lo, just below the southeast exit of Thong Lo BTS. Ba mee mu daeng, khao mun gai, and a wealth of other great Thai eats are available for around 30-50 baht per dish. More than a few farang frequent the food stalls, so most of the vendors speak English well enough to help you order. For a little more atmosphere, walk a little ways down the left side of Thong Lo to Ana Garden, between Thong Lo 1 and 3, which you might mistake for a plant nursery. The owner is an interior designer who has warmed to the Indian/Thai theme that permeates the place, warmly decorated with beautiful paintings. The front has a pleasant restaurant which serves over-priced Thai and western food. The food can be very hit and miss -- we'd suggest Ana's for a drink and a snack more than a meal. Out the back of Ana's you'll find The Groove Kitchen, a cool dance hall where you can party after dinner to DJs spinning tunes seven nights a week.

Ana Garden - Between Thong Lo 1 and 3, bangkok. T: (02) 391 1762. Daily: 17:00 – 24:00 (restaurant) / 20:00 – 01:00 (Groove Kitchen nightclub) http://www.anagarden.com
Baan Khanitha - 36/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Bangkok. T:(02) 258 4181. Daily: 11:00 – 14:00 and 18:00 – 22:30.
Lemongrass - 5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24, Bangkok. T: (02) 258 8637. Daily 11:00 – 14:00 and 18:00 – 23:00.
Ruan Thaptim - 4 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Bangkok. T: (02) 663 5115. Daily 11:30 – 24:00.
Thong Lor Food stalls – Sukhumvit Soi 38 (across from Thong Lo), Bangkok. Daily 18:00-24:00.
Vientiane Kitchen - 8 Sukhumvit Soi 36, Bangkok. T: (02) 258 6171. Daily: 12:00 – 24:00. http://www.vientiane-kitchen.com

Other Asian
First comes Koi, a franchise of the uber-trendy Los Angeles bar and eatery, hidden away on Soi 20. Koi's creative and expensive fusion Japanese food is certainly palatable, but it's posing with cocktail in hand on one of the many models nights that makes this socialite mecca particularly fun.

Soi 23 is home to arguably Bangkok's top Vietnamese restaurant, Le Dalat Indochine -- a great place to sample some authentic Vietnamese cuisine. The atmosphere is an intriguing blend of formal and kitsch, while the prices are reasonable and the service attentive.

Further east, cravings for the sub-continent can be satisfied at one of the best Indian restaurants in the city, Himali Cha Cha, which is set just a skip down Soi 31 and easy walking distance from BTS Phrom Phong. The restaurants namesake, Cha Cha, used to cook for the Indian Prime Minister Nehru. While Cha Cha has passed on, his recipes, served in an elegant Indian decorated dining room, are exemplary and you need not be the leader of a nation to afford it; prices are reasonable and well worth it.

Koi – 26 Sukhmuvit Soi 20, Bangkok. T: (02) 258 1590. http://www.koirestaurantbkk.com
Himali Cha Cha – Sukhumvit Soi 31, Bangkok. T: (02) 259 6677. Daily 11:00 – 15:30 and 18:00 – 22:30.
Le Dalat Indochine - 14 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Bangkok. T: (02) 661 7967-8. Daily: 11:30 – 14:30 and 17:30 – 22:30.


Italian & European
Just inside a sub-soi running off Soi 22, you'll find Govinda -- an excellent little Italian vegetarian restaurant. The homey atmosphere, friendly staff, and incredibly tasty cuisine makes Govinda popular with locals who are aware of this little gem, hidden in the back left corner of the soi.

On the other side of Sukhumvit, Pizzeria Bella Napoli, on Sukhumvit soi 31, is one of the best pizzerias in town. Their pizzas are excellent, but the pastas are equally tasty, served in deep-dish bowls that have pizza dough stretched over the top and are then briefly cooked in the pizza oven -- great for finishing off the last bits of sauce!

Fancier Italian can be found at L'Opera, a bit far down the maze of soi 39. it's a venerable and long-running Italian restaurant and a great choice for reasonably-priced and solid, if unimaginative, Italian fare. Lunch-time buffets, in the bright, greenhouse-like glass roofed dining room are a good deal. If you are around in the evening, pop in next door at Opera Riserva 1983 winetheque, where you'll find in-the-know expats rather than tourists in this great tucked-away wine bar, which has knowledgeable staff, excellent wine and a convivial atmosphere. The cheese plate is fabulous and the pizzas look good.

Fancier still is Thong Lo-based Beccofino. Owned by master chef Angelo and wine expert Kit, Beccofino is a great place to dress up for and wallow in luxury. Tastefully decorated and with friendly staff, appetizers start at around 200B and main dishes at around 300B, all made with imported ingredients. A full-blown Italian feast with wine and dessert will run into the thousands, but you'll be glad you splurged when you're letting out your belt.

For German food, swing by Bei Otto on Sukhumvit Soi 20. it is one of the most genuine German establishments in Bangkok and its Tyrolean atmosphere is matched only in authenticity by the selection in the small delicatessen.

Mes Amis is an outstanding French restaurant that is well worth hunting out towards the end of Thong Lo Soi 5. The superb French food is served in an intimate atmosphere, the wine list is reasonable value and the desserts are to die for -- what more could you ask for -- with slightly lower prices we could afford to eat here more than once a year.

Beccofino - 146 Sukhumvit 55 (Soi 4), Bangkok. T:(02) 392 1881. http://www.beccofino.co.th
Bei Otto – 1 Soi 20 Sukhumvit, Bangkok. T:(02) 262 0892. Daily: 11:00 – 24:00. http://www.beiotto.com
Bella Napoli Pizzeria – 3/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31, Bangkok. T:(02) 259 0405. Daily: 11:30 – 14:30 and 17:30 – 23:30.
Govinda – 6/5/6/6 Suhmuvit Soi 22, Bangkok. T:(02) 663 4970. Wed – Mon 11:00-15:00 and 18:00-24:00.
L'Opera - 53 Soi 39 Sukhumvit, Bangkok. T:(02) 258 5606.
Mes Amis - 102/3 Thong Lo Soi 5, Bangkok. T:(02) 260 6445-6. Daily 11:30 – 14:30 and 18:00 – 22:30.
Opera Riserva 1983 winetheque - 53/3 Sukhumvit Soi 39, Bangkok. T:(02) 258 5601.

International
Located on the corner of Soi 23 and Soi Cowboy is The Old Dutch. Although it's open all day, the greasy breakfasts and late night grinds, including grilled onion covered burgers, are its highlights. Surprisingly for the area, it's not sleazy and the primarily western food is not bad. The prices are reasonable, the staff friendly and the free newspapers a bonus.

A bit farther afield is Kuppa, on Soi 16. Kuppa is one of Bangkok's flasher cafes and a fine place for a lazy Sunday brunch. The coffee prices will break a backpacking budget, but the place is difficult to fault. Among the international fare on offer, their roast beef sandwiches are notable, as is their seafood pasta. The dinner menu is a bit pricier again. Great desserts.

Wander a fair way down Soi 20 and you'll find Tamarind Cafe, a very trendy cafe/restaurant that has gone for the concept of healthy, vegetarian, Asian-Western fusion. The cafe is an incredibly pleasant place to spend a few hours or have a quick meal. It also hosts photography exhibitions and examples of the works are dotted around the walls above the comfortable couches. Although a little expensive, the food is superb, even for those who usually crave meat, and it has won several local awards. The Malay Quesadillas and waffles and ice cream are both worth a try.

For a little livelier atmosphere, check out Senior Pico at the Rembrandt Hotel – accessible from Soi 18 or 20. Besides tasty, if pricy, Mexican food, Senior Pico has live music Tuesday through Sunday that often gets patrons up out of their seats and onto the dance floor in front of the stage.

A little down Soi 22 you'll find Larry's Dive, a beach-themed western restaurant, that has passable burgers and sandwiches, and sub-par tex-mex, but which a good number of expatriate North Americans swear by. Free wi-fi and decent happy hour are a couple reasons to check it out.

Also located on the soi is Bourbon St., a Cajun bar and restaurant that has its official address on soi 22, but is more easily approached from the alley between The Dubliner and Mambo Cabaret. Bourbon Street has good Cajun and Creole cuisine and pretty tasty eggs benedict. They also have free wi-fi and a nightly happy hour.

Within the Emporium shopping centre there's all manner of eating options, but of particular note is Greyhound, the original trendy eatery that started it all. A starkly decorated space that's breezy and usually full, it also has a seating area outside along the mezzanine level of the shopping mall which is a great vantage point from which to watch the Bangkok hi-so crowd shop for their Gucci's. The menu features a wide variety of dishes and the staff is attentive. Starters begin at about 70B and mains at about 150B

A good five minute cab ride down Thong Lo (depending on traffic), is the J-Avenue complex and surrounding neighbourhood. In addition to a number of authentic Japanese restaurants and a roof top beer garden that is open during the winter months, there is a surprisingly comfortable Au Bon Pain sandwich shop, and a branch of the popular Thai chain Greyhound. Greyhound serves reasonably affordable food in a laid-back atmosphere. This one might have benefited from a larger space, but it's still a great place to enjoy a good meal on their outdoor patio.

Almost across the street from J-Avenue on Thong Lo is the Playground concept store, a combination art gallery, shopping, and dining space, which hosts the occasional fashion show or artistically themed cocktail party. Browse the collection of design themed books or the vast magazine collection, try on shoes and clothing from international brands such as Camper and X-Large, or grab some food at one of the several restaurants in the complex. Sonie's Playground is a branch of the Italian/Japanese restaurant Sonie's, which has expensive foods available at reduced rates in the form of lunch specials. The peppered sashimi salad with crunchy shrimp rolls is a particularly good deal. There are also branches of Kuppa, of soi 16 sandwich fame, and Vanilla Restaurant, which has a classy dining area and an eclectic menu of snacks.

Rounding out the international flavour of Thong Lo is Woodstock, which relocated from Nana Entertainment Plaza several years ago. While Woodstock has lost a bit of its grungy, rock and roll vibe as an oasis of normalcy within the red-light complex on Nana, it saved a number of its classic rock posters, upgraded to a nicer (free) pool table, and replaced its extensive CD collection with an mp3 jukebox. To patrons of the former location, Woodstock has lost a bit of its charm, but the tex-mex menu remains the same, as does the quality, and it's still a popular hang out, despite its remote location.

Bourbon Street - 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (Behind Washington Square), Bangkok. T:(02) 259 0328. Daily 07:00-01:00. http://www.bourbonstbkk.com
Greyhound (Emporium) - Second Floor, Emporium Shopping Complex, Sukhumvit 24, Bangkok. T:(02) 664 8663. http://www.greyhound.co.th
Greyhound (Thong Lo) – J-Avenue, Thong Lo 15, Bangkok. T:(02) 656 1192 Daily: 11:00 – 22:45. http://www.greyhound.co.th
Kuppa - 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, Bangkok. T:(02) 663 0495. Tue-Sun 10:00 – 23:30.
Kuppa@Playground – 818 Sukhumvit 55, 3rd floor, Bangkok. T:(02) 714 9517. Daily 9:30 – 23:00.
Larry's Dive - 8/3 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Bangkok. T:(02) 663 4563. Daily 08:00-01:00. http://www.larrysdive.com
Senior Picos – Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18, Bangkok. T:(02) 261 7100. Daily: 17:00 – 01:00.
Sonie's Playground – 818 Sukhumvit 55, 3rd floor, Bangkok. T:(02) 381 9425. Daily 11:00 – 22:30.
Tamarind Cafe – 27 Sukhumvit Soi 20, Bangkok. T:(02) 663 7421. Mon-Fri 15:00-23:30 Sat-Sun 10:00 – 23:30. http://www.tamarind-cafe.com
The Old Dutch - 9/3-4 Sukhumvit Soi 23, Bangkok. T:(02) 258 9234.
Woodstock Bar and Grill - 44 Thong Lo Soi 13, Bangkok. T:(02) 715 0202-3. Daily: 11:00 – 01:00. http://www.woodstockbkk.com
Vanilla Restaurant – 818 Sukhmuvit 55, 1st floor, Bangkok. T:(02) 714 9652. Daily 10:00 – 22:00

Bars & nightlife
The Dubliner Irish Pub is located directly on Sukhumvit, next to Mambo Cabaret (incidentally the most popular transvestite drag show in town). The Dubliner is hands down the best Irish pub in the city, with a lively crew of regular customers returning for the live music, quiz night, ladies night, occasional pool tournaments, and very hearty pub grub. The three-storey joint boasts an open bar on the ground floor, a dining area up a level, and a sports-bar style area with TV and pool table on the top floor. Walking towards Soi 22 you will pass Flyers pool hall, which has two floors of tables. The tables on the second floor are better quality, but it's the only respectable pool hall in the immediate area so it's good for a few games of stick.

Unless you are in the mood to check out the dancing girls on Soi Cowboy, Glow is the only respectable nightspot in the area. The former Faith Club has maintained the dark, club interior and DJ themed entertainment schedule, but receives kudos for pouring better drinks – including a huge selection of vodkas -- hiring more competent staff, and drawing a fun late-night crowd of partiers.

Across from the Emporium, there are several pubs: Robin Hood, located directly on Sukhumvit at Soi 33/1, has live music five nights a week; The Bulls Head, down Soi 33/1, has occasional comedy shows on their top floor, but normally appeals to stodgy, unfriendly, stool jockeys; and The Londoner Brew Pub, located on Sukhumvit at Soi 33, brews their own ales, which are generally uninspiring, but, as one of the only brew-pubs in the city, is worth sampling during their buy-one-get-one happy hour -- they won't let you switch flavours for your second pint so make sure each of you in your party order differently the first time so you can swap your second rounds.

A popular Farang hangout on Thong Lo is The Witch's Tavern. The word tavern suited this Thong Lo landmark before the 2004 renovation; dimly lit bar might be a better term now. Good pub food at western prices (or a bit more) and featuring talented live bands every night of the week. The drinks are a bit overpriced but you can usually find a good bunch of people ready to party the night away. Grab a chair on the 2nd floor and watch the band and the crowd below.

If you are looking to experience the Thai nightlife scene, check out the complex of clubs at just past Thong Lo soi 13. Packed with revelling young Thais and a few Farang nightly, these clubs have a variety of music from Thai pop to hip-hop, but be sure to bring your ID and dress appropriately, as the clubs are popular and can afford to be picky. Khao San, on the second floor, is nothing what you would expect from the name. The all white, classy, environment is far too clean and modern to be associated with the backpacker road of the same name and draws an almost exclusively Thai crowd that admittedly do drink like binging backpackers. Escudo, on the top floor of the complex, has several different areas featuring different music, and is a great place to dance, drink, and mingle with locals, as the clientele is primarily Thai, but is more popular with Farang than Khao San, particularly young and trendy models and the like, and it has more of a party atmosphere.

Further out on Ekamai, try Bangkok Bar on Ekamai Soi 2 for inexpensive, tasty Thai food, strong cheap drinks, and a chilled out, yet hip atmosphere. The menu is huge so it's good for sharing dishes. One particularly popular nightclub is Santika, a massive club that features live music, bottles of booze, and good times practically guaranteed. It's one of the few clubs of its kind in this area where Thais and Farangs party and mix it up together easily.

Escudo – 4th floor Duchess Plaza Building, Just past soi 13, Thong Lo, Bangkok. T:(02) 381 0866. Daily 21:00 – 01:00.
Flyers – 400/14-17 Sukhumvit Soi (at corner of soi 22), Bangkok. T:(02) 663 5800. Daily: 11:00 – 01:00.
Glow - 96/4-5 Sukhumvit 23, Bangkok. T:(02) 261 3007. Daily 18:00 – 02:00. http://www.glowbkk.com
Khao San – 2nd floor Duchess Plaza Building Just past Thong Lo soi 13, Bangkok.
Mambo Cabaret – Next to Dubliner Irish Pub, Bangkok. T:(02) 259 5128. Shows nightly at 20:30 & 22:30.
Santika – 235/11 Sukhumvit 63 Just past Ekamai soi 9, Ekamai, Bangkok. T:(02) 711 5886. Daily 19:00 – 01:00.
The Bull's Head - 595/10-11 Sukumvit Soi 33/1, Bangkok. T:(02) 259 4444. Daily: 11:00 – 01:00. http://www.greatbritishpub.com/bullshead/index.asp
The Dubliner Irish Pub - 440 Sukhumvit Road between sois 22 and 24, Bangkok. T:(02) 204 1841-2. Daily 09:00 – 01:00. http://www.dublinerbangkok.com/
The Londoner Brew Pub – 591 UBC II Building basement, Sukhumvit 33, Bangkok. T:(02) 261 0238.
The Robin Hood - 597-597/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1, Bangkok. T:(02) 662 3390. Daily: 10:00 – 24:00.
The Witch's Tavern - 306/1 Sukhumvit 55 (Between Thong Lo 8 and 10), Bangkok. T:(02) 391 9791. Daily: 11:00 – 02:00. http://www.witch-tavern.com