An Angkor cycling guide
First published 13th October, 2009
The multitude of temples at Angkor represent a true challenge to even a dedicated temple fanatic. Hundreds of temples lie in wait, some buried in growing jungle, while others sit conveniently right off the main road. With so much to see, a seven-day pass is clearly the best choice, buying ample adventure for US$60. While a million various routes exist, we took one that balances chronology with grandiosity, postponing the giants until the third day of the tour. After all, once you've seen Angkor Wat and Bayon, it's a little harder to appreciate sites like Bakong and Pre Rup.
All of the traditional Grand Circuit is covered, albeit over several days with a bit of overlap, as well as plenty of places much less touristed. One day is done by van, to see some temples that sit beyond cycling range, but everything else is covered in rides no greater than 47km. The popular sunset locations are included in Angkor Wat and Phnom Bakeng, as is the far less visited Phnom Bok, and the one brave sunrise is on the non-cycling day -- it's a bit daunting to ride for 30 minutes in the dark with tuk-tuks and vans zooming by. Between the heat of the day and darkness lie the prime operating hours of this guide, as experiencing Siem Reap's nightlife is arguably preferable to its early mornings. This tour could certainly be completed in much less time, but the idea is that a slower pace means increased appreciation.
Day One (32km)
Recommended Temple Order: Lolei, Preah Ko, Bakong
Located 13km east of Siem Reap, the Roluous Group represents the origins of religious stone construction in the area, so these temples are the early models for the later greatness of Angkor. The road is smooth and well-paved, with plenty of regular traffic, so looping back along the rural dirt roads makes for a less stressful return. Overall an easy day of cycling and good preparation for the humid dense jungle riding where the main temples sit.
Day Two (47km)
Recommended Temple Order: Prasat Kravan, Banteay Kdei, Sra Srang, Pre Rup, Banteay Samre, Phnom Bok
This day concludes with a long ride home in the darkness, well worth it after a relaxing sunset at the hilltop tree-topped temples at Phnom Bok. Along the way plenty of worthwhile stops are available once branching off from the main Angkor road. The side of Angkor Wat's massive moat gives way to a few kilometres of jungle before Prasat Kravan emerges from the high walls of green. Smaller enclosures hold a few remaining brick carvings, a contrast to the massive crumbling sprawl of Banteay Kdei. The baray of Sra Srang holds some prized moments of peace, away from the hordes of sellers around most temples. Before turning east into the countryside, the massive towers of Pre Rup hold an excellent view over the terrain. Banteay Samre lies past a crossroads, but then hundreds of stairs await before the final destination. Phnom Bok is not home to an unobstructed sunset, but the light reflecting onto its ruins, with trees emerging from a pair of buildings, is a wonderful setting for a private Angkorian moment before a relaxing, but dark, return back to Siem Reap. Don't forget your headlamp, relying on approaching headlights might be a tad dangerous.
Day Three (13km)
Recommended Temple Order: Angkor Wat
A simple day in that there's only a single destination, but the views and hallways, the spires and shadows, and the galleries and carvings of Angkor Wat can all consume quite a lot of time. Plus the crowds can be thick, meaning patience is required to take some pictures, and most of the temple isn't exactly quiet. But as the sun drops down, the backside of the temple finally clears out, and the stone and sky both start to change colors. Trailing at the end of the Angkor Wat horde can result in some fantastic, though rushed, photographs. The short ride home, albeit alongside plenty of other vehicles, flies quickly by with your mind still soaking up all that it's seen.
Day Four (28km)
Recommended Temple Order: Ta Phrom Kel, Baksei Chamkrong, South Gate of Angkor Thom, Bayon, Baphuon, Terrace of Elephants, Phimeanakas, Terrace of the Leper King, Preah Palilay, North Gate of Angkor Thom, Preah Khan
After a few quick stops at some minor temples, the magnificence of Bayon truly begins the day, its hundreds of faces staring forever outwards silent and strong. Plenty of carvings abound on the lower level as well, so be prepared to spend a lot of time in awe of Jayavarman VII's efforts. Angkor Thom includes plenty of other wondrous sights, most notably the Terrace of Elephants, Preah Palilay, its entry gates, and Baphuon -- if its restoration is ever completed. The day's finale is found in Preah Khan, a large complex of convoluted paths, many collapsing despite ongoing repairs. There's a rather unique two-story building towards the back, which supposedly once housed the king's sword, and plenty of trees emerging from stone.
Day Five (28km)
Recommended Temple Order: Ta Phrom, Ta Keo, Spean Thmor, Thommanon, Chau Say Tevoda, Victory Gate of Angkor Thom
Another renowned temple, Ta Phrom, gets virtually its own day, as the set of Tomb Raider is packed with astounding trees and equally astounded tourists. For better of worse, wooden walkways guarantee nothing will be missed, and while popular photos may have small crowds the jaw-dropping scenery more than makes up for it. Honestly the interaction of nature with stone is more impressive than the temple alone, as Ta Phrom is rightfully famed for its serpentine roots and branches. As daytime comes to an end, plenty of temples line the road towards the Angkor Thom's Victory Gate, including Ta Keo, Thommanon, and Chau Say Tevoda.
Recommended Temple Order: Angkor Wat, Banteay Srei, Kbal Spean, Beng Mealea, Phnom Bakeng
This is a long day by van, as the road to Beng Mealea is apparently too rough for a tuk-tuk, and the distance far too great to cycle. Starting at 5am, the sunrise is cool and peaceful at Angkor Wat, with silence somewhat prevailing despite the crowd. Banteay Srei is next, a smaller temple that has some of Angkor's best carvings that remain in situ. Then Kbal Spean, the river of 1000 lingas, rewards a 1.5km uphill walk with some impressive images of the gods carved into the riverbed. After a long ride, the isolated and overgrown Beng Mealea lies in wait. Perhaps its trees are not as dramatic as Ta Phrom's, but the temple holds some fantastic secrets for those willing to crawl around its collapsing walls. Phnom Bakeng, back near central Angkor, is an overly-popular sunset location, but the herds of tourists and elephants at least create a miniature carnival as the sun goes down.
Recommended Temple Order: Western Baray or ...
The final day is really up to your discretion. Assuming temple burnout has been avoided, the whole Western Baray awaits, though the temples per kilometer ratio isn't the best. Otherwise the main three temples, Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Phrom, are all worthy of another exploratory visit. A sunset at Phnom Krom, south of Siem Reap, is possible, or a journey out to the somewhat isolated Chau Srei Vibol could be equally rewarding. Or you can just relax at your hotel, relishing the fact that you've already seen many of the finest religious sites in the world...
Some Non-Temple Suggestions For Siem Reap
Fifty-cent Anchor drafts are available throughout the entire day at many bar/restaurants on Pub Street, as is a multitude of international cuisine: French, Italian, Mexican, and Western. Cheap Khmer food is available from plenty of street-side stands once the heat of the day has passed. You may burn a lot of calories cycling and walking, but you can more than easily regain them back in town. Thankfully, there are a few clubs, all a cheap tuk-tuk ride away from Pub Street, where you can dance those beer calories right back off!
If you like the idea of "happy" food, make sure to check out Happy Special Pizza. They have a vast selection of pizzas, and when they make them "extra happy" it is actually effective. They will also prepare "happy shakes" for $2, which are quick, delicious, and mind-altering. If the "happy" isn't kicking in quickly, try smoking some, available from behind the counter for $10/bag (varying quality, sometimes too many stems) or $1/joint. You can go to similar places, recommended by the guidebooks, but their "happy" rationing is vastly inferior, and they don't hook it up from behind the counter.
Good shopping is available in Siem Reap's several markets, for anything from shirts to silk, statues to snake-whiskey, and paintings to patches, although much of what is being sold is also available from the multitude of vendors around the main temples. If you have the time, Psar Chaa, the Noon To Night Market, and the Angkor Night Market are all worth a wander. The pedicure/massage shop within the Angkor Night Market is definitely above average, and provides a nice respite from haggling. There are also many shops that support Cambodia's less fortunate, in particular Rajana's intriguing jewelry made from bullets is very unique.
Bus transit to and from Siem Reap is the cheapest way to go, however the boat ride, particularly to Battambang, is an excellent way to see Cambodia's backwater way-of-life. All along the swollen river people fish from small boats or wash their laundry, while children frolic in the water with their friends. Plus, the top deck of the boat is an excellent way to get a suntan or sunburn, depending on your skin-type.
Story by Anderson Muth
Related readingAn introduction
24 hours in Bangkok
Muay Thai night
Ko Samet Vs Pattaya
Singapore: Escape the urban jungle
Battambang, bamboo trains & guides
Bangkok to Siem Reap
Angkorian traffic woes
Spas, shopping & seers in Siem Reap
Read 9 comment(s)
Add your comment
Feature story quicklinks
- Giving back in Southeast Asia (16)
- All stories
- Angkor Hospital For Children
- COPE: Helping people move on
- Epic Arts
- Free the Bears Laos
- Helping Phuket's children in need
- Helping Siem Reap's rubbish dump families
- Helping Singapore's transient workers
- Helping the Karen of Burma
- Humanitarian Services for Children of Vietnam
- Lifestart Foundation, Hoi An
- MyME Yangon
- Soi Dog Foundation
- Swim Vietnam
- Thai Freedom House, Chiang Mai
- The Samui Prison Project
- The SET Foundation
- Burma (9)
- Cambodia (23)
- All stories
- A Cambodian Eco-lodge
- A honeymoon in Cambodia
- Angkorian traffic woes
- Battambang weekend
- Elephant riding in Cambodia: Should you?
- Great places to stay in Siem Reap
- Is Preah Vihear safe to visit?
- Kampot or Kep?
- Koh Rong: Trouble in paradise?
- Kompong Cham escape
- Northeast Cambodia in photos
- Oh Poipet!
- PEPY:Sustainable Cambodian tourism
- Phnom Tamao Wildlife Refuge
- Sihanoukville beaches lure expats
- Spas, shopping & seers in Siem Reap
- The best islands in Cambodia
- The best places to stay on Cambodia's islands
- The Death Highway
- Trekking in Virachey National Park
- Trekking the Cardamoms in Cambodia
- Which Cambodian island is right for you?
- Why you should go to Cambodia
- Indonesia (14)
- All stories
- A funeral in Toraja, Sulawesi
- Climbing Rinjani
- How to hire a boat in Indonesia: Without drowning
- Learn to surf in Bali
- Medewi: A great Bali getaway
- Mountain biking in Bali: A ride in the woods
- Pasola, Sumba
- The Gili islands: Which is the right one for you?
- Ubud bird watching: From waterhens to witchcraft
- Ubud shopping guide
- Village trekking in Tana Toraja
- Weekend in Nusa Penida
- Yogya's student scene
- Laos (18)
- All stories
- A breeze through Luang Prabang
- Best budget rooms in Luang Prabang 2013
- Elephant trekking in Laos
- Exploring Laos' Bolaven Plateau
- Huay Xai to Pak Tha by slowboat
- Is Lao Airlines safe to fly?
- Laos' vanishing elephants
- Luang Prabang escape
- Luang Prabang for kids
- Muang Ngoi Escape
- Photos of Luang Prabang, Laos
- Pi Mai Lao in Luang Prabang: In 1999
- Southern Laos by scooter
- Temples in Luang Prabang
- The Gibbon Experience
- The Phonsavan adventure
- Vientiane's Chinatown
- What to buy in Luang Prabang, Laos
- Malaysia (10)
- Singapore (9)
- Thailand (80)
- All stories
- 10 Bangkok galleries worth a look-see
- 10 Thai treks aside from Chiang Mai
- 24 Hours in Bangkok: Sukhumvit to Siam Square
- 31 Thai islands
- 5 Southern Thai towns to lose time in
- A Thai homestay in Ayutthaya
- A weekend in Phra Phradaeng
- A weekend on Ko Samet, Thailand
- An extra day in Krabi
- Andaman Sea island hopper
- Are Thailand’s cheap guesthouses disappearing?
- Ayutthaya temple tour
- Bangkok craft villages
- Bangkok for art lovers
- Bangkok's Charoen Krung Road
- Bangkok's Thonburi: exploring the west side
- Brilliant Bangkok
- Chiang Dao getaway
- Chiang Mai's temples
- Corruption in Thailand
- Eating on the edge
- Elephant's World Kanchanaburi
- Exploring Lamphun
- Exploring the Lungs of Bangkok
- Far southern Thailand: Go or not?
- Five days in Khao Lak, Thailand
- Floating markets around Bangkok
- Great Thai food blogs
- Highlights of Chanthaburi province
- How to do Khao Yai National Park
- Khao San Road safety and scams
- Ko Mun Nork: a nearby paradise
- Ko Pha Ngan 7-day detox:Colonic fast
- Ko Pha Ngan's best beaches in 2013
- Ko Phi Phi on a budget
- Ko Tao for non-divers guide
- Ko Yao Noi or Ko Yao Yai?
- Ko Yao: the islands you're looking for
- Learning Muay Thai in Bangkok
- Motorcycling the Chiang Rai loop
- Narathiwat: residence of good people
- Navigating Bangkok: The BTS Skytrain
- Phuket by night
- Phuket for Kids
- Phuket heritage walk: Car parts to saris
- Phuket's secret beaches
- Planning around Thailand's civil unrest
- Roll your own Kanchanaburi
- Should I book for the full moon party?
- Should I cancel my Thai holiday? No.
- Should I cancel my trip to Thailand? No.
- Soi Thong Lo, Bangkok
- Sorting out Suvarnabhumi Airport
- Staying at a Thai monastery
- Thai islands for nature lovers
- Thai islands to lose yourself on
- Thai visa FAQ
- Thailand tsunami wrap
- Thailand's Full Moon Party
- Thailand's Mae Khlong market
- Thailand: Where to from here?
- The best beach on Ko Samui
- The best places to stay on Ko Kut, Thailand
- The bridge over the River Kwai festival
- The road to Sangkhlaburi
- The road to Sangkhom
- Travelling through north-east Thailand
- Trekking in Thailand
- Trisara -- decadent luxury at its best
- Two days in Kamphaeng Phet
- What are the alternatives to Bangkok?
- What is the best beach on Ko Tao?
- What is the best island in Thailand?
- What's a good beach on Ko Pha Ngan?
- What's a good beach on Ko Samui?
- Where to stay at Railay Bay, Thailand
- Where to stay in Sukhothai?
- Where to stay on Ko Samet, Thailand
- Which beach on Ko Samui?
- Which island in Trang?
- Vietnam (33)
- All stories
- A short break in Nha Trang
- A Weekend in Can Tho
- Being fed Fido: Eating dog in Vietnam
- Buying a touring motorbike in Vietnam
- Con Dao escape
- Do nothing and see the best of Hanoi
- Doing the DMZ from Hue
- Exploring Kon Tum
- Exploring Vietnam's Mekong Delta
- Great Hanoi cafes to chill out in
- Ha Long Bay conclusions
- Ha Long Bay for backpackers
- Ha Long Bay for budget-busters
- Ha Long Bay for flashpackers
- Ha Long Bay or Sapa?
- Hanoi escape
- Hanoi or Saigon?
- Hoi An -- Walking over the dragon
- How to do the Dien Bien Phu loop
- How to enjoy your time in Vietnam
- How to pick a good Ha Long Bay cruise
- Is the Hoi An culture tour worth it?
- Motorbike Vietnam's Central Highlands
- One day in Hanoi
- Responsible shopping and eating in Hoi An
- Saigon's top 10 cafés
- Sapa or Bac Ha?
- Saving Vietnam's bears
- Street food safety
- The DMZ: Traveller tactical briefing
- Travel tips for Tet in Vietnam 2013
- Two Wheels & Ricefields: A review
- Which is the best street food tour in Hanoi?
- Accommodation guides (21)
- All stories
- 2005 Top guesthouses in Bangkok
- 2005 Top guesthouses in Chiang Mai
- 2006 Top guesthouses in Hanoi
- 2006 Top guesthouses in Phnom Penh
- 2006 Top guesthouses on Ko Phi Phi
- 2006 Top Luang Prabang guesthouses
- 2008 Top Bangkok airport guesthouses
- 2008 Top Luang Prabang guesthouses
- 2008 Top spots on Phu Quoc Island
- 2009 Top guesthouses in Bangkok
- 2009 Top Phnom Penh guesthouses
- 2011 Best places to stay in Kuala Lumpur
- 2011 Best places to stay on Ko Phi Phi
- Best places to stay in Hanoi 2012
- Cheap Phuket guesthouses & hotels
- Five special hotels in Cambodia
- Ko Lipe's best budget guesthouses 2012
- The best hostels in Bangkok 2014
- The best places to stay on Ko Chang, Thailand
- The changing face of Khao San Road
- Where to stay on Koh Rong Samloem
- Travel with kids (7)
- Opinion & advice (16)
- All stories
- 10 reasons to do an adventure tour
- 10 reasons to travel independently
- A year's worth of travel for 2013
- Beach hideaways in Asia
- Christmas and New Years in Southeast Asia
- Do I need reservations for my holiday?
- Evil man of Krabi
- Fifteen tips for a great holiday in Asia
- Getting a cheap airfare to Asia
- Hotels should never charge extra for WiFi
- Long distance buses in Southeast Asia
- Mass tourism in Southeast Asia
- Nine Asian upcountry hideaways
- Planning a Gap Year? Some advice.
- Ten Southeast Asian trips for 2008
- Ten thoughts on ten years with Travelfish
- How do I? (11)
- All stories
- Bangkok to Ko Samui, Pha Ngan & Tao
- Bangkok to Siem Reap
- Catching a train in Thailand
- Catching a train in Vietnam
- Cheap flights with Discovery Airpass
- Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang
- Crossing the Cambodia Laos border
- Ko Chang to Phu Quoc Island
- Siem Reap to Ko Chang
- Stops between Bangkok & Chiang Mai
- Visa run from Thailand to Burma
- Cycling Asia (13)
- All stories
- 24 hours in Bangkok
- An Angkor cycling guide
- An introduction
- Battambang, bamboo trains & guides
- Confessions of a "cheating cyclist"
- Cycles of all sorts
- Ha Long Bay independently
- Ko Samet Vs Pattaya
- Muay Thai night
- Phonsavan and Luang Prabang
- The hills of Vietnam
- The road less travelled
- Tubing in Vang Vieng
- Health and safety (6)
- Money and finance (4)
- Diving guides (6)
- Photo essay (3)
- Guest blog (2)
- General (15)
- All stories
- 10 Christmas days in Asia we're yet to have
- 10 dumb things I've done while travelling
- 34 ways to travel greener
- Asian animal experiences
- Call me Mr Massage Magic
- Chefs Without Borders
- Flying is fun!
- Mr Golden
- On being a travel writer
- Teaching ESL in Asia
- The 211 country honeymoon
- The Boxing Day Tsunami: 5 years on.
- To Teach or Not to Teach
- Travel writing scholarship 2012
- Tuk to the Road Charity ride
- Book reviews (5)
- Interviews (8)
- Explore Bangkok by BTS (18)
- All stories
- Bangkok by skytrain: Ari
- Bangkok by skytrain: Asok
- Bangkok by skytrain: Chid Lom
- Bangkok by skytrain: Chong Nonsi
- Bangkok by skytrain: Mo Chit
- Bangkok by skytrain: National Stadium
- Bangkok by skytrain: On Nut
- Bangkok by skytrain: Phaya Thai
- Bangkok by skytrain: Phloen Chit
- Bangkok by skytrain: Phrom Phong
- Bangkok by skytrain: Ratchadamri
- Bangkok by skytrain: Ratchathewi
- Bangkok by skytrain: Sala Daeng (S2)
- Bangkok by skytrain: Sanam Pao
- Bangkok by skytrain: Saphan Taksin
- Bangkok by skytrain: Siam
- Bangkok by skytrain: Surasak
- Bangkok by skytrain: Thong Lor
Sign up for Travelfish Burp!
Our weekly wrap on Southeast Asian travel.
Click here to see a recent newsletter.