Bangkok by skytrain: Phrom Phong

Jump to story list

Phrom Phong station is number E5 on the Sukhumvit line, and is in the area that's come to be known as 'Farang Alley' by some. There are many Western style restaurants, shops and attractions here, so it's inhabited by a large population of foreigners and tourists. Even so, it's possible to find some pleasant Thai touches in this area, and is an interesting area to spend an afternoon exploring. The road under the station is Sukhumvit Road, which has several small sois running off of both sides along its length.

Underneath the station via exit 4 is soi 24, where you can find perennial restaurant favourite Lemongrass. Just before you get to Lemongrass, you'll see a small dead-end soi that runs past a tiny 7-11. Inside this soi are two well stocked used bookstores. The first one is on the right and simply has a sign in the window that says "Book." You can find books in multiple languages here. Across from this is Thaibrary. Thaibrary sells as well as loans their books out, and the space is clean and relaxed. Tea and internet service are available as well.

The biggest attraction in this area is the massive Emporium shopping mall connected to the BTS station .One of the better malls in Bangkok, Emporium is home to some very upscale stores (Louis Vuiton, Prada, etc) as well as less expensive shops. Books Kinokuniya (4th floor) is one of the better bookshops in Bangkok with a selection which, while huge, often lacks depth. On the 3rd floor lies the original Greyhound restaurant and the Emporium Department Store which has everything from expensive perfume to the latest kids toys. The entire 5th floor is a mass of restaurants, deli's, coffee shops, fast food outlets and even a supermarket. The 6th floor is home to one of Bangkok's better cinema complexes.

West of the shopping complex is Benjasiri Park, a fantastic little oasis amid the raging traffic. There are lots of grassy areas to take a nap and a large pond in the middle that provides some nice photographic opportunities. The best time to come is during the late afternoon and early evening, where you can see crowds of people taking part in group aerobics, Tai-Chi or just strolling with their families. Make sure to check out the teams playing the incredibly acrobatic game of takraw, a kind of cross between volleyball and football. Be aware that at 08:00 and 18:00, all pedestrian traffic comes to a complete stop to recognise the national anthem that plays over the loudspeakers.

If you walk past Benjasiri park heading west on Sukhumvit Rd, you'll come to a large recessed building - this is the Mambo Cabaret, now playing host to one of Bangkok's better known ladyboy cabaret shows -- in a previous live however, this was Bangkok's first cinema. Shows are nightly at 18:30 and 22:00 and the price is 600B. Right out front sits the Dubliner, a popular Irish pub that's a favourite among many an expat.

If you cross Sukhumvit Rd in front of Mambo Cabaret and head back towards the BTS station, you'll come to soi 33. In the basement of the UBC II tower on the corner is the Londoner, a British pub that is another popular place for expats to down a pint.

The first 200 meters or so of soi 33 are pretty standard massage parlours and men's clubs, where the girls opt for fancy evening gowns rather than mini skirts. Across from the large Novotel Lotus is Bascillico, a reasonable Italian restaurant. Around the corner from this on soi 33/2 is the Office, a friendly little bar tucked away out of sight. The Office is mostly popular with expat men in shirts and ties after work, attracted by the extensive sports coverage screened here.

Further down Sukhumvit you'll come to Villa, a well stocked supermarket chain that specialises in imported goodies from back home that you'll have a hard time finding in other supermarkets. Inside the unmarked soi between Villa and Subway Sandwiches is a popular French/Thai butcher shop and a couple of small, eclectic stores. This soi connects to soi 33/1, where you can find the Bull's Head pub, a Blockbuster video store and another mid-size supermarket that caters to Japanese tastes.

On the corner of Sukhumvit and soi 33/1 you'll find the Robin Hood, yet another entry in the pub scene in this area. A few steps further and you come to Pita Pan, a little place that serves good Middle Eastern food.

Directly underneath the station on this side of the road is a Nike store where you can find genuine Nike gear (at genuine Nike prices). Further east of the BTS the attractions peter out and you'll find mostly small hardware stores, a few small bookstores and the such, but nothing to go out of your way to see.




Add your comment

First published 27th October, 2005

Feature story quicklinks





Newsletter signup

Sign up for Travelfish Burp! — you won't regret it!