What is a good guesthouse in Hanoi?

When it comes to finding a good guesthouse in Hanoi, making the right choice is a bit like making an omelette -- one mistake and you've landed in a right sticky mess with egg all over your face. What follows are some of our favourite Hanoi picks to hopefully make finding the right guesthouse that little bit easier for you.

The vast majority of guesthouses and hotels in Hanoi are crammed into the Old District around Hoan Kiem Lake. Most are within easy walking distance of one another and the choice is almost limitless and often very similar. Take your time when choosing and don't be berated into making a rushed decision -- something better may be just two minutes down the road. Also, while Hanoi does have some excellent places to stay, it unfortunately also has more than its fair share of dumps run by dodgy operators -- buyer beware.

Backpackers
If you're a serious budget traveller, Hanoi is less than ideal. While you can get a dorm bed for as little at US$3 or a single room for as little as $4, you're really going to be staying at places that are pretty grim. If there was ever a city where spending an extra couple of dollars was worthwhile, it would be Hanoi. Up your budget to the $6-8 range and you'll get something that is clean, secure and often fitted out with mod cons you'd be paying $15 for in Thailand.

If you're comfortable with dorm beds, look no further than Hanoi's Backpacker Hostel. This is easily Hanoi's best backpacker spot, and while the dorm beds are not cheap (US$7), believe us they're worth every penny. Be wary of imitators, as they Hanoi shyster-set are well and truly onto this location, with a whole bevy of names that could be confused with the real deal.

If dorm beds are that little bit too gregarious for you, then don't fret, the very friendly, family-run Tung Trang Hotel has rooms starting at US$8 a night (upto US$15 for their best rooms) that are great value -- their best rooms overlook the pagoda out front.

If that is still breaking the bank, try either the Thu Giang Guesthouse (from US$7) which is just up the road, or for a hint of nostalgia, wander up to one of Hanoi's older guesthouses the Real Darling Cafe Guesthouse which has US$3 dorms -- we wary of shysters ripping off the Darling name.

Flashpackers
If you're a flashpacker at heart, then the Artist Hotel (US$13-20) is one of Hanoi's best keep secrets. The Artist Hotel is also home to Cinemateque -- Hanoi's alternative cinema and has a great open-air cafe which you may well struggle to leave. Another fine option in the under US$20 range is the Prince II Hotel (US$15-20) -- with in-room broadband and spotless rooms making it a winner.

Mid range
In the mid-range, we found Hanoi a little lacking -- a couple of gems, but not nearly the range of boutique places we'd hoped for. Both Golden Lotus (US$45) and Queen (US$40) are excellent value. Queen is in the heart of Hanoi's old quarter, while the Golden Lotus is over near Bao Khanh -- home to many of Hanoi's bars and chic cafes. Both are elegant and immaculate and very good mid-range value.

Top-end and business travellers
Above the mid-range you really slip into luxury hotels more orientated to the business traveller. In this market, we thought the Hilton Hanoi Opera (from US$185) was the pick of the bunch -- particularly for its business services and facilities. If you're looking for something more boutique, then consider the Zephyr (from US$98) which has smart rooms and a top floor bar with exquisite views.

Something special
Last but not least, if you're looking for something special -- a honeymoon in Hanoi perhaps, or just a splurge at the end of a long trip -- then look no further than the Sofitel Metropole (US$150++) -- a stunning example of colonial charm that we could wax lyrical about for hours. Just be sure to specifically request a room in the Metropole Wing and one with a view at that. This wing is the original building and has far more charm than the more contemporary Opera Wing.

Buyer beware
A word of warning. Hanoi has more than its fair share of shysters. Many guesthouses look to profit off you by selling you tours to Sapa or Halong Bay rather than renting you a room. If, after checking in, you decide to not use their tour services, problems can arise. Watch out for guesthouses using other place's names (Darling is a common one) and rest assured if you are taken somewhere by a tout you are being taken there for a commission -- not out of the goodness of the tout's heart. You may well find yourself repaying this commission many times in both money and headaches -- the simple solution is to ignore touts. Under no circumstances allow a guesthouse to retain your passport. If they insist, either stay elsewhere or tell them to make a copy. Passport extortion can be a problem amongst the cheaper guesthouses in Hanoi.