How do I get from Bangkok to Siem Reap?

The trip from Bangkok to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat is one of the most talked about routes in the region: scam buses, awful roads, visa rip-offs, over-priced taxis and a whole realm of shysters and con men to boot, but in the end, it's a very straightforward trip, which, with a bit of planning is as easy as pie. Here's a cheat sheet to get you there and back without too much fraying of the nerves.

Fly

Price no problem? Bangkok Airways is the way to go -- in fact it is the only way to go. In one of the more dubious chapters of open skies agreements this airline has long been the only airline flying the Bangkok to Siem Reap route, and not surprisingly, for the distance flown it remains one of the most expensive flights around.

Rumour long has it that the road from Poipet to Siem Reap was kept in it's particularly crappy condition in order to steer people onto the planes -- who would have thought! Expect to pay around 4,500-5,000B one way (before taxes, fuel charges and so on) for the flight -- yes, it is an absolute rip-off. The flight takes about 45 minutes each way.

If you're not up for spending a couple of hundred dollars for a 45 minute flight in support of a monopoly, then read on for the details on doing the trip overland.

Overland

There's two segments to this trip, the Thai side (from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet, then to the border) and the Cambodian side (from Poipet to Siem Reap).

Bangkok to Aranyaprathet.

Unless you're planning on hiring a taxi from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet (expect to pay around 2,500-3,000B) your choice is down to train or bus. If you're travelling slow and maybe considering overnighting in Aranyaprathet, then the train is great, but most people opt for the bus as it is quicker.

Train
There are two 3rd class only trains a day from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet. The morning train leaves at 05:55, the afternoon one at 13:05. The trip takes around five and a half hours. If you want to get to Siem Reap on the same day, you must catch the morning train. With the afternoon train you'll need to overnight in Aranyaprathet or Poipet. The train is slow but scenic -- if you have time on your hands it is worth doing at least once.

Bus
Buses to and from Aranyaprathet use Bangkok's northern bus station (Morchit). Both first-class (around 200B) and second-class (around 160B) buses leave from the ground floor of the terminal. Buses leave every half hour or so and the trip takes four to five and a half hours. Buses depart Bangkok from 04:00 - 18:00 every thirty minutes or so. If you're heading in the other direction, the last bus to Bangkok leaves Aranyaprathet at around 18:00.

At Aranyaprathet
Once you're at Aranyaprathet you need to take a tuk tuk or motorbike to Rongklua border market which is 7km away. The ride should cost 80-100B depending on the number of passengers. Under no circumstances allow a tout into the tuk tuk with you.

At Rongklua market
The tuk tuk will drop you off at the border market where you need to clear both Thai and Cambodian immigration and customs. As you walk towards the border crossing you will be approached by touts -- ignore them -- do not even acknowledge their existence.

Immigration and customs
The Poipet border crossing is open from 07:30-20:00 daily. Clearing Thai immigration and customs is straightforward. Depending on your nationality, you will need a visa to Cambodia to be able to enter. The visa costs US$20 and you'll need to supply one passport photo. You are well advised to have enough crisp US notes to pay for this as if you have to pay in Baht you'll be given an awful exchange rate.

At Poipet
Once you've been stamped into Cambodia, take the government shuttle bus from the border to the transport depot. From there you have three choices -- share-taxi, government bus or pick-up -- we recommend taking a taxi.

Leaving Poipet
One of the best things about Poipet is leaving it. A taxi to Siem Reap will cost US$45, so try to hook up with other backpackers to split the fare. The government bus costs $10. A ride in a pick-up will cost you 30B in the back or 100B for two seats in the cab -- note this is only to Sisophon, from where you'll need to organise another ride on to Siem Reap. If you're going by pick-up we'd suggest splurging and buying two seats in the cab -- it's a dusty, uncomfortable ride. When shopping around for a pick-up be sure to choose one that is almost full. Some guesthouses in Siem Reap can supply a pick-up service from the border -- check with your guesthouse to see if this is possible.

Poipet to Siem Reap
This road has gained near legendary status for its poor condition and while things have improved considerably, it still isn't one of the better roads in Cambodia -- the quality of the surface ranges from totally unsealed to pretty good. Overall trip time by taxi is three to four hours, by bus five to seven. In wet season the trip can take longer. The best place to get up-to-date information on this road is from the Tales of Asia website, which has a page dedicated solely to the conditions of the Poipet to Siem Reap road.

Scam buses
At both Khao San Road and Siem Reap you'll see minibuses offered for next to nothing for the Bangkok to Siem Reap run. These are invariably scams that in some cases have taken in excess of 20 hours to deliver the passengers. Do NOT use these services.

For more information, see Why you should not catch a package minibus between Bangkok and Siem Reap.

Summary

Don't use the minibus scam service
If you have money - fly
If you have loads of time - take the train
Never talk to touts
Don't use the minibus scam service

See -- we told you getting from Bangkok to Siem Reap was going to be easy!