How do I cross the Cambodia to Laos border?

Of all the border crossings in the region, the overland crossing between Cambodia and Laos has been one of the most changeable. In some ways, the Veun Kham / Dom Kralor has all the ingredients of a pain in the posterior crossing -- corrupt border officials, unscrupulous boat men, inconsistent travel advice and of course wildly varying traveller tales. Read on to find out the best way to cross this ever-changing border.

Background
For a long time the border between Cambodia and Laos could only be travelled by boat -- from Veun Kham in Laos to the Khmer town of Stung Treng. Boatmen took advantage of the lack of competition and for years these were some of the most expensive boat-trips in Cambodia -- very beautiful indeed, but travellers paid dearly to enjoy the view. Marathon bargaining sessions often transpired -- on one occasion we heard of a group of travellers swam across one section of the river rather than pay the extortionate fees levied by the boatmen.

More recently as the road from Stung Treng improved, a second crossing opened up with travellers ferried down by minibus. There was still a ferry crossing (far closer to Stung Treng) but when the bridge just east of Stung Treng is completed some time in 2007, you'll have no need for ferries at all.

Summary
There are two ways to cross this border -- as an organised package (Don Dhet or Don Khon to Stung Treng / Kratie / Kompong Cham / Phnom Penh -- and the reverse) or to do it independently. It is FAR easier and less expensive to do the actual border leg as an organised trip. While we're almost always in favour of travelling independently, in this isolated case, it makes a lot more sense to organise your trip through a travel agent, in which case you'll be crossing by minibus rather than boat.

Visas
Lao visa-on-arrival is not available. You MUST have a Lao visa before arriving at the border -- we'd suggest picking one up in Phnom Penh.

Cambodian visa-on-arrival is available at the land crossing, but not the boat crossing.

You may be expected to pay a small "handling fee" (bribe) to the immigration authorities -- normally US$1 to $2 per person.

The logistics
There are two crossings -- one handles crossing by boat and the other by minibus. For the purposes of this story, we'll refer to the boat crossing as Veun Kham (also spelt Veunkham and Veung Kham) and the minibus crossing as Dom Kralor (also spelt Dongkralaw). Each of the two crossings have their own border kiosk.

An important note
Cambodian visa-on-arrival is available only at the Dom Kralor crossing and a Lao visa-on-arrival is available at neither. If you are planning on heading south to Stung Treng by boat using the Veun Kham crossing you'll have to either have your Cambodian visa already (good idea) or else go first to Dom Kralor, get the visa and then return to Veun Kham (bad idea).

By travel agent
Any travel agent in Pakse, Don Khong, Don Dhet and Don Khon will be able to sell you a through ticket to the Cambodian town of your choice. Prices may seem a little high, but when compared to what it will cost you to cross the border independently, the rates for the border crossing segment are a bargain. Note travel further afield is cheaper if done independently. Sample tour prices include: Stung Treng US$13, Kratie US$20, Kompong Cham US$23, Phnom Penh US$26 and Siem Reap US$30 USD.

Getting to the borders
Transport can be arranged from Nakasang to Veun Kham (by motorbike US$5) or to Dom Kralor (by songtheaw $10 to charter the whole thing). The two crossings are around a dozen kilometres from Nakasang.

Crossing the borders
From Veun Kham to Stung Treng by boat there's a range of options and the prices vary tremendously.

A longtail takes two and a half hours and costs US$100 for the boat or $10-15 per person (if you have a group of ten or more).

The speedboat takes just an hour, but costs $240 for a maximum of six people.

There are rumours of a slow boat, but they're just rumours as far as we were able to divine.

Bear in mind that the vast majority of people now use the less expensive minibus crossing at Dom Dom Kralor, so if you're an individual traveller planning on showing up at the border and waiting around for enough people to show up to make the boat cost effective, you may be waiting a very long time.

Just about all the boats running from Veun Kham are run by Mr T (T: (012) 437 496) in Stung Treng. If you've got a bunch of people together it may be worthwhile calling him directly to organise a boat trip south to Stung Treng as you'll then be spared the bargaining session on the riverbank. If you don't have a telephone ask a travel agent to assist.

From Dom Kralor to Stung Treng, minibuses leave the Cambodian side of the border when full (around nine people qualifies it as full) and costs US$10-15 per person. If you jump on one of these you're effectively just getting on the same minibus you would have if you'd booked transport from elsewhere in Laos -- it is cheaper if you book the whole thing.

See it's easy!
It's a short crossing -- just a few hours from Si Phan Don to Stung Treng, yet this crossing between Cambodia and Laos has generated more than its fair share of heartache and confusion. Pop into a travel agent, take the minibus and save yourself the frustrations (and cost) of doing it solo.

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