Travel stories from Thailand
Short-term visitors often size up Bangkok as a place of glitzy malls, thumping nightclubs, street stalls, traffic jams and impressive, but touristy, temples and palaces. Peel back this out layer to discover a rich and persistent artistic heritage that's likely to turn first impressions of the city on their heads. How to find it? Any of six centuries-old craft villages are great places to start.
Phuket, like most areas of Thailand, is home to many stray animals in need of care. But visitors returning to Phuket will notice that there are far fewer sad, sickly dogs and cats on the loose than there were a decade ago, thanks in no small part to the tireless work of Soi Dog Foundation in providing medical care, sterilisations and adoptions for the island's strays.
At Travelfish, we work hard to steer you towards the best Thai food in Thailand by way of our many Eat and Meet sections, like this one for Chiang Mai. But those who want to voyage deeper into the vibrant world of Thai cuisine have several terrific blogs to choose from. In no particular order, these are the sites that we look to when our taste buds need some inspiration.
It's around 02:00 at Greenpeace Restaurant in the heart of Ko Pha Ngan's Full Moon Party and Nat is up at the counter trying to pay the bill for our table. "What did you have? We have no idea what you had," says one of the Burmese staff "Just pay me whatever you think is right." He's distracted, busy trying to deal with a Western guy who is covered in his own faeces, so Nat passes him a few hundred and we move on.
One of the most popular travel destinations in the world, Bangkok is also the centre of Thai society in just about every possible way — including the political demonstrations and military coups of recent years. Fortunately, there’s no shortage of worthwhile alternatives for anyone looking to skip Bangkok without going all the way up north or down south.
Anchoring the Siam Square shopping district, Siam BTS station (aka "central station") provides the only interchange between the Skytrain system's Sukhumvit and Silom lines. The station sits over Rama I Road in a central area of the city where real estate is among the priciest in Thailand.
Number E4 on the Sukhumvit Line, Asok station is the centrepiece of a vibrant area where Sukhumvit, Ratchadiphisek and Asok Montri roads converge. The city's coolest mall -- Terminal 21 -- opened in 2011 right next to Asok station and is a great place to watch a movie at the FX Cinema, grab a bite at any of dozens of Thai and international restaurants, or pick up funky clothes and jewellery crafted by local designers. Apart from Terminal, the Asok area is probably best known -- and notoriously so -- for the go-go bars and "massage" parlours of Soi Cowboy. This is also one of three BTS stations where you can transfer to the MRT subway.
Laos loomed across the vast Mekong River as our motorbike hummed west. Water buffaloes, straw-hatted farmers and forest monks moved slowly in the heat. We detoured to viewpoints, temples, waterfalls and villages, entranced by the relaxed pace of life. But the best part about motorbiking the riverside road from Nong Khai to Sangkhom was the sense of freedom.
Even those who rarely venture from their neighbourhood pubs know Thailand for its magnificent beaches, glittering temples, fiery food and notorious nightlife. Now drawing well over 20 million visitors a year, the kingdom has accommodation for every imaginable niche and budget. But will it keep the backpackers smiling for long?
Recently I sat down with Travis Sherry of Extra Pack of Peanuts for an interview about Travelfish.org, travel in Southeast Asia and so on. I mentioned that during my frequent travels over the years to Thailand, I've visited 31 islands in total. So while Thailand has very famous islands like Ko Samui and Phuket -- perhaps your average traveller would be pushing it to name more than five -- it also has a lot of others worth considering. Without further ado, here's my list of 31 islands with a few lines about each. Happy island hopping!
Sometimes called the "Beast of the East" thanks to its sheer mass and location in the eastern Gulf of Thailand near Cambodia, Ko Chang might just be the quintessential Thai island destination. From breathtaking mountains to idyllic beaches, hippy hangouts to salubrious resorts, and traditional fishing villages to neon nightlife, "Elephant Island" truly has something for everyone. Having something for everyone also means there are hundreds of places to stay on Ko Chang. How is one to choose? Let us help.
In late 2012, a formidable mission arrived from Travelfish headquarters: Find the best hostels in Bangkok. Over a span of months, I reviewed 50 hostels first-hand, considering issues like comfort, value, staff, common facilities, cleanliness, originality, design, location and atmosphere. In the end, I boiled them all down to 20 that I would most highly recommend.
Mainland Thai coastal beaches don't usually enjoy the hype of their offshore neighbours with names like Samet, Phi Phi and Samui. Yet for a comfortable and convenient, if touristy beach holiday, the Andaman coastal town of Khao Lak has a definite lure. It boasts vast stretches of golden sand, a wide range of accommodation, a family-friendly atmosphere and some fabulous day trips. Even if you only have five days, you can make the most of them here.
This past Sunday, Thailand's capital Bangkok saw some of its biggest political demonstrations since anti-government protesters took to the streets two months ago. The latest round in a seven-year-long political saga has triggered several isolated incidents of violence and caused major traffic congestion. At this point, we would not cancel a trip to Thailand, or even to Bangkok, but it's wise to stay informed.
Back in 1994, Peter Robinson, a British Buddhist monk living at a temple in the Northern Thai province of Nakhon Sawan, began looking into how he could help a promising student find enough money to attend university. His actions then planted the seeds of an education trust that has since grown into a multi-million baht scholarship fund supporting thousands of students across Thailand.
Though it's thought of as a quick and easy escape from Bangkok, Ko Samet is one island where it pays to do some planning before you arrive. Each with its own distinctive vibe, a dozen different beaches are spread over a long sliver of land. Whether you seek to party with friends, have fun with the family, relax with a lover, indulge in luxury or keep it cheap and basic, Samet has what you're looking for -- if you know where to find it.
Many travellers feel that no Thailand adventure would be complete without an elephant trek. The sad fact is that many elephants are overworked, underfed and mistreated at tourist-driven attractions, and their backs are not suited to carrying people for long stretches. In an idyllic slice of Kanchanaburi province, however, Elephant's World is a non-profit elephant refuge that offers a fun and responsible alternative to the usual tourist elephant camps.
Stumpy bananas, rose apples, coconuts and spices sit piled on thin wooden sampans rowed by farmers in bamboo hats. Old teak wood houses seem to bend over the calm water of countryside canals. Local chatter and the mouth-watering scent of whole fishes on the grill fills festive air. Perhaps nothing in Thailand captivates travellers' imaginations more than a floating market.
Well away from the sunset cocktail bars and five-star resorts of Phuket there are untold stories of families in struggle. When families are burdened by poverty, illness, addiction or abuse, it’s often the children who suffer the most. Life sometimes gets tough enough that the family home is no longer safe or secure for a child; in some cases, there is no home for them to go to. This is where the Phuket Sunshine Village (PSV) Foundation steps in to help.
Ko Kut (or Koh Kood) is one of Thailand's most beautiful islands. With more than a dozen beaches to explore, many of them picture-perfect, white-sand affairs with Maldives-like turquoise water, this is a truly idyllic beach destination. The development is mostly very low key, the beaches are almost uniformly clean and well kept and the island's rugged jungle interior is both largely untouched yet accessible, with impressive waterfalls and viewpoints to keep you busy for a few off-beach days.
Want a countryside escape from Bangkok -- without leaving Bangkok? Just a five-minute taxi ride from Bang Na BTS station plus a four baht ferry hop across the Chao Phraya River and you could be chilling to the sounds of crickets and frogs rather than tuk tuks and bars. Here’s our idea of a perfect weekend getaway on Bangkok’s Phra Phradaeng peninsula.
The northernmost station in the BTS system, Mo Chit is number S8 on the Sukhumvit Line. It sits directly over one of Bangkok's busiest roads, Phahonyothin. While best known as a gateway to Chatuchak weekend market, Mo Chit is also useful if catching a bus from the northern bus terminal of the same name, heading to the Bangkok immigration office, Don Muang Airport or anywhere else in the city's northern reaches. One of Bangkok's largest parks is also located in the shadow of the station, and it's one of three places where the BTS connects to the MRT subway line.
Many travellers pass through Krabi town as quickly as possible, seeing it as nothing more than a jumping off point for Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta. Before (or after) you dash off to the beach though, we recommend a day or two to let this riverside town work its magic. Those who linger are rewarded with cheap yet fabulous food, a relaxed atmosphere and several worthwhile attractions.
If you’ve been to one of Bangkok’s famous muay Thai (Thai boxing) stadiums, Lumpini or Rajadamnern, you know how brutally effective this so-called “art of eight-limbs” can be: fallen combatants are regularly removed from the ring by stretcher. An increasing number of travellers to Bangkok aren’t content to merely watch the sport -- they want to get their hands dirty and experience or train muay Thai.
Loaded with lakes, rivers, caves, temples, waterfalls, national parks, historical sites, picturesque villages and mountain vistas, the road to Sangkhlaburi is one of Thailand's most spectacular. Kanchanaburi town is known for its rafthouses and World War II sights, but for the very best of this enormous province, get some wheels and head to where the air is cool and the scenery sublime.
The haunting, UNESCO-listed ruins at Kamphaeng Phet attract a trickle of travellers, often on day trips from Sukhothai. Those who linger are treated to marvellous food, a scenic riverfront, pristine natural attractions and spirited locals who haven't become jaded by large-scale tourism. If you seek to sidestep the well-trodden track, two days in Kamphaeng Phet could be just the ticket.
Surrounded on three sides by the Andaman Sea and walled off from the rest of the mainland by limestone cliffs that make rock climbers drool, the isthmus of Railay is one of Thailand's most magnificent beach destinations. Each of the peninsula's four beaches has its own distinct character, and it pays to do your homework before deciding which is right for you.
Other than running Chiang Mai's excellent Freebird Cafe -- a Shan/Burmese vegetarian restaurant -- Thai Freedom House runs a community education, arts and language centre for both refugees from Burma (Myanmar) as well as underprivileged ethnic minorities in Northern Thailand itself.
Wat this, wat that, what the... ? Yes Chiang Mai city's numerous Buddhist temples, or wats, can be overwhelming for travellers. The city is famous for them and any guide -- including our own -- will proffer extensive lists of must-see temples, prestigious Buddha images and not-to-be missed Lanna-style religious architecture. We lost count at 35 wats within the old city walls, and there's at least that number again in the surrounding downtown area -- and probably a similar number in the 'burbs. So what to do? Choosing which ones look the best is purely subjective, but we can at least place them in order of importance in terms of prestige and historical significance and suggest a few routes. Here we go.
From the king's palace to Little India and Chinatown, through the old European quarter and on to the beginnings of Bangkok's modern business district, a stroll down Charoen Krung Road touches nearly all of the historical-cultural threads that weave this fascinating city together. With eclectic food, bustling markets and a diverse mix of attractions, it's also a feast for the senses. Khao San and Sukhumvit roads may be better known to travellers, but nowhere is Bangkok's spirit more vivid than along Charoen Krung.
Number E9 on the Sukhumvit Line, On Nut was the furthest out of the new BTS stations to be added back in 2010, and it's a prime example of how the Skytrain is revitalising the outlying areas that it reaches. Before the BTS arrived, this area was a sort of backwater chiefly defined by local neighbourhoods with charming old wood homes and ugly concrete shophouses. Since On Nut station opened, more than a dozen enormous condominium buildings have been constructed, and new restaurants and hotels are popping up like dandelions in the springtime. The transformation is far from complete -- expect to see ongoing construction here -- but On Nut increasingly has something to offer both the traveller and the expat seeking affordability and a non-touristy setting.
The Samui Prison Project (SPP) was set up by local legal firm, PKN Legal & Business Consultancy, to work with groups raising money to help prisoners in the Women’s Unit at the Ko Samui District Prison. The aim is to assist the prison in its own efforts to provide rehabilitation for female offenders through education, training and community support.
The answer to the question of where you should stay on Thailand's Ko Samui for a holiday would depend entirely on what you are looking for from a stay on the island. Do you want to be where the party is? Would you prefer a little peace and quiet and a taste of the old Samui? Here we give you a few pointers on what to expect from the different areas, so you can make an informed choice of where to head.
The only station west of the main interchange station at Siam, National Stadium is number W1 on the Silom line. A stone's throw from Siam Square, National Stadium is useful for accessing -- you guessed it -- the National Stadium sports complex along with a handful of hotels and some notable sights along Rama I Road. This is also the closest you can get by sky train to Khao San Road and the rest of Banglamphu, although it's still a four kilometre walk or 60 to 120 baht taxi ride depending on traffic.
It's been called 'Bangkok's Brooklyn' -- an area west of the Chao Phraya River where artsy youth hang loose with grannies and grampas in century-old houses. Unlike swiftly transforming central Bangkok, most of the neighbourhoods perched along Thonburi's canals and alleyways haven't changed much over the past century. Foreign tourists are still a novelty, but those willing to stray from Bangkok's comfort zones are rightly rewarded.
Ko Pha Ngan is home to some of the most picturesque beaches in the world, with turquoise waves lapping on powder-white sand. With 32 beaches in total, some without proper roads to reach them, it's possible to find your own little piece of paradise not overrun with other travellers – you just need to know what you're looking for. We took a stab at this back in 2005, but the island has grown up quite a bit and here are our 2013 picks for Ko Pha Ngan's best beaches, starting from the northeast corner of the island, and continuing counter-clockwise.
Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Kanchanaburi, Phuket and ... Chanthaburi? This coastal province in southeastern Thailand isn't usually listed among the kingdom's premier destinations, but maybe it should be. With waterfalls, a coastline full of surprises, fabulous regional food and a dreamy old riverfront district influenced by the Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese and French, Chanthaburi offers a wealth of good stuff in one accessible package.
Coconut trees crouch over white sands, limestone cliffs soar from clear aquamarine water and another magnificent sunset unfolds; it must be the Andaman Sea off the southwest coast of Thailand. The decision to visit this, one of the world's most idyllic destinations, is an easy one, but choosing an island or two can be tough. Settling into a single island for a solid chunk of time is the best way to fully unwind, but if seeking adventure, why not hop till you drop by way of high-speed ferries?
There's nothing like settling into a bare-bones beach hut on a nearly off-the-map tropical island where honking horns, politics and TV commercials exist only as distant memories. On the Thai islands below, the mind has space to relax, reflect, and to lose itself in gently swaying palms. These places aren't bursting with activities -- and that's sort of the point.
Many of Thailand's islands have seen staggering development in recent years, but a slice of unspoilt paradise can still be enjoyed in several marine national parks. If you're hoping to traverse rugged mountain trails, relax on near empty beaches, meander mangrove forests and sea-caves by kayak, be pestered by monkeys rather than touts and doze off to the sound of waves instead of beach parties, these islands are for you.
In late July of this year, a Dutch woman, on the way home from celebrating her 19th birthday at a bar in Ao Nang Krabi, was allegedly beaten and raped by a Thai tour guide. When she later arrived at hospital, the medical team treating her assumed she had been in a motorcycle accident because of the severity of her injuries. The assailant, whom she identified and who initially confessed to the crime when arrested -- a month later -- is now out on bail, and denying guilt.
With its stunning UNESCO-listed ruins steeped in Khmer-Thai history, central Thailand's Sukhothai is a must for historically and spiritually inclined travellers. The area is split into two distinct districts: old Sukhothai, which is home to the historical park, and the inviting if not charming riverside city of new Sukhothai some 12 kilometres east of the ruins. Great places to stay can be found in both old and new -- but which is right for you?
For nature lovers, UNESCO-listed Khao Yai national park is one of Asia's best. Spanning some 2,168 square kilometres over three provinces, Thailand's grandest and oldest national park is home to thriving communities of plants and wildlife along with stunning jungle, mountains and waterfalls, all accessible from a sizable network of roads, hiking trails, cabins and campsites.
Fish vendors frantically lug their buckets into the shadows. A gang of photographers emerge from the woodwork to snatch a spot near the old train track/footpath. Several men hastily lower the market's makeshift roofs as pineapples and mangosteens tumble from their baskets. A lazy day at Samut Songkhram's small but tightly packed Mae Khlong market has instantly transformed into a chaotic spectacle. Turning around, I realise why: "That train's not going to try coming through here, is it?"
Thailand is known for its beautiful beaches, and Ko Samui is no exception. Being one of Thailand's most popular tourist locations, Samui's beaches may no longer be as secluded as those of the smaller islands. For some, this is not a negative; but those still opting for isolation or authenticity need not worry, as this can still be found with a little help.
There's been talk on the Travelfish forum that Thailand's backpacker nerve centre, Khao San Road, is little more than a "dodgy" place where "sharks", "the most unscrupulous people in Thailand", "Thai mafia", "thugs, gangsters and thieves" prey upon the droves of dreamy-eyed travellers passing through each day. For many, the area's party-gypsy-rainbow-child atmosphere is a fun time, but how safe is it? It's unlikely problems will arise if you stay smart, but just in case, here are some tips for safely experiencing Khao San.
Pick up any guidebook, leaf to the Phuket Town section and I guarantee you'll see the words "Sino-Portuguese architecture". To dig a bit more deeply than a guidebook does into what this actually means, I spent a half day with Kritchaya (Chaya) Na Takuathung of Phuket Heritage Trails and discovered that there's a lot more to Phuket's history than a bunch of pretty shopfronts.
Over the past ten years the tiny southwest Thai island of Ko Lipe has gone from being a little known blip of sand in the Andaman Sea to one of Southeast Asia's most heavily touristed small islands. While a decade ago there were just a few simple resorts, today Lipe boasts close to 50 accommodation options to choose from, with the trend going persistently towards expensive, upmarket spa resorts.
A lot of mediocre guesthouses and hotels are available on Ko Phi Phi, despite its popularity (or perhaps because of it). Booking in advance, sight unseen, can often yield unpleasant surprises. But the alternatives aren't much more promising: tramping around the island on your first day trying to find a decent spot, or trusting one of the touts who greets you at the pier. But never fear — we've done the tramping for you.
When you've finished sunbathing and splashing about on the beaches of Phuket, you'll likely want to shower off the sand and see what else the island has to offer after dark. A lot of what's on offer is sleaze — though officials would deny this — but here's a selection of some of the better, family-friendly stuff on offer.
Chawadee Nualkhair has just released a new book, Bangkok's Top 50 Street Food Stalls, profiling the top 50 street food stalls (plus a few stragglers) in Bangkok. The Thai-born, American raised food lover reveals to Travelfish.org some of her favoured spots, advises what adventurous eaters to the capital should try, and tells us the most far-out thing she ate in the name of research that saw meals devoured across 150-plus stalls.
If you find yourself in Thailand's tourist hub Phuket, we'd recommend a visit to Patong beach ... if we hated you. Every year squillions of tourists descend on the once glorious two-kilometre sandy expanse, and it shows: the beach is dirty, touts are relentless, the water's plagued by jet skis, the sand by dune buggies and if you aren't careful a parasailer may just knock you out from above. Yes, you can endure this dystopian nightmare, or read on to get the skinny on some of Phuket's secret beaches.
Former food writer Jarrett Wrisley opened his first restaurant, Soul Food Mahanakorn, in Bangkok last year to rave reviews. We ask the American restaurateur about his food philosophy and tease out his tips for hungry travellers to Thailand.
So you've got a day to kill in Bangkok? It's not much time, especially when it's easy to be overly ambitious in the Thai capital, setting out to do a million and one things only to find that the traffic, the heat and the crowds thwart you. But here's a relatively slow-paced itinerary focused on the Sukhumvit-Siam Square stretch for those on a not-too-tight budget wanting to savour a bit of the city's cosmopolitanism. Think eating, shopping and relaxing with a touch of sightseeing thrown in.
One of the very common questions we see on Travelfish.org is "What is the fastest way to get down south?" Down south referring generally to one of the three Gulf islands of Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan or Ko Tao, or to the west coast Andaman islands out from Krabi, Phuket and Trang. You can fly, get an overnight bus or a train, but before that, take a breath, slow down and think about what you might be missing. With a sly week or so up your sleeve, here are five spots we'd venture are worth a look in and hey, you may like them so much you'll never make it to the islands!
Like most mass-transit rail systems in big cities, Bangkok's skytrain (aka BTS), which opened in 1999, can be confusing when you first use it. But with a bit of research, it will all become as clear as the capital's air was 100 years ago. Better still, before you know it you'll be whizzing above Bangkok's traffic-snarled streets without a care in the world.
Update: As at early June 2010, all warnings for travel to Bangkok have been lifted, the city has largely returned to its old self. We still suggest you work to keep abreast of developments.The street fighting in Bangkok, primarily between the UDD (better known as the red shirts) and the Thai authorities, has escalated considerably over the last few days. Since April 10, there have been over 66 fatalities and at least 1,700 people injured, including a number of foreign journalists. While the violence is fairly localised to a few areas of Bangkok, the situation is extremely volatile and could spread quickly and without warning. Travelfish.org advises travellers to avoid all travel to Bangkok.
Questions relating to Thai visas are some of the most common ones popping up on the Visa and Border Crossings section of the Travelfish.org forum. Given the Thai authorities change the rules so often it is no surprise that people get confused regarding both the need for a visa and how they can get one. So what follows is a brief summary of the rules and regulations regarding Thai visas along with some background information that may help.
Dawn breaks in Thailand. A wave of orange sweeps over the entire country as monks from all over leave their monasteries and depart for their daily alms round. This scene has attracted more and more Westerners towards a closer glimpse of the lifestyle of a Thai Buddhist monk. Spending time in a monastery during your visit to Thailand can allow such an experience, and in fact was for me one of the greatest times I had in the country. Walking into any monastery for the first time means leaving your old world behind in exchange for new, far different one. No cell phone... No laptop... No iPod. This is a good thing.
Located along Thailand's east coast, the differences between the sands of Pattaya and Ko Samet are intriguing. Both are tourist destinations in their own right, packed with guesthouses and late-night bars, but it seems the clientele of each is reflected by the very beach itself. Oddly enough, to some capacity these two places of excess -- only 100km apart -- are virtually opposites.
Somehow I found myself on a street corner, eating some sort of ground-meat pseudo-sushi on-a-stick. At well past midnight, with the neon glow of 7-Eleven glaring over me, another glorious Thai day was coming to a close. But before all that can be explained, perhaps the day should be put in proper perspective.
What makes the perfect beach? Are you looking for stretches where no other speedo has swum or are sunset bars and thumping music more your thing? While Ko Tao is best known for its diving industry, it's also home to more than its fair share of glorious stretches of sand. So here is a round up on some of Ko Tao's best beaches -- note though, this isn't an exhaustive list -- we don't want to take away all the fun!
Two opposite worlds exist within Thailand's capital, depending on the presence of the sun. Busy yet relaxed, this city is bustling at all hours. I didn't quite realise the extent of it until I spent 24 hours awake in a city that lacks the desire to sleep. The day began by cruising through the city in the modern, comfortable, affordable (40 baht), and delightfully air-conditioned Bangkok SkyTrain. Thanks to our guesthouse'send-of-the-line location, we were even guaranteed seats, a luxury no longer available at further stops.
Khao Sok national park in southern Thailand is a reserve dominated by a 165 square kilometre lake surrounded by ancient rainforest. Huge limestone columns jut out of the water, monstrous sentinels that dwarf your longtail boat as you cruise by. Most travellers visit in order to trek through the jungle, spot wildlife and soak up the peace and tranquility that the park radiates.
Many first time visitors to Thailand travel between Bangkok and Thailand's northern capital Chiang Mai with barely a thought for the intervening territory, but if you've got a bit of time up your sleeve, there are a load of attractions between the two cities. Be it national parks, temple towns, or just nice-for-chilling-out traveller centres, there is no shortage of destinations to be waylaid at. Also as regular Travelfishers will know, we're big fans of taking scenic indirect routes so while you can shuttle between the two on an overnight train, you can just as easily spend a month getting from one to the other.
I have made Thailand my home, I live on a small island called Ko Tao off the east coast and teach travellers to scuba dive. Many people comment on how lucky I am but luck really has nothing to do with it. My response is always the same, you can do it too, and it's true.
It seems barely a week passes without some new ghastly story hitting the airwaves about corruption in Thailand. Be it beer mat nabbing mums in Phuket, tourists being extorted at the airport or the old tried and tested gem scam story it seems Thailand should be slapped with a "buyer beware" sticker. Over the last year, and far more seriously in Travelfish's humble opinion, we've seen ongoing political uncertainties, street protests in Bangkok, border clashes with Cambodia and the neverending shifting sands of visa regulations. More and more often I wake wondering: Does Thailand really want tourists to come at all?
It seems for now that the red-shirt protests that gripped first Pattaya and then Bangkok over the last few days are over. Services, including trains, buses and flights, are running as normal. A heavy military presence remains in some parts of the city, but aside from that it is largely back to business as usual. So here's a round-up of what happened, with some links for further reading and suggestions for those who'd really prefer to avoid Bangkok altogether.
We thought it was about time to inject a touch more culture into the Travelfish site, so here is a list of 10 art galleries in Bangkok worth poking your head into. Note you'll see no national galleries here, but rather more independent, small operations, as that's where you'll often find the most challenging art in Thailand. We've not set our eyes on all these places ourselves (we're a bit lacking in the culture department) but we put the word out and some of our far more cultured friends helped us come up with this shortlist.
Many first-time visitors to Thailand just assume that Chiang Mai is where it's at when it comes to trekking. It was -- about 30 years ago. Today it's possible to go trekking from over a dozen different locations throughout Thailand and there's all manner of add ons, from elephant riding and rafting through to language and cooking tuition. While it's easy to think all treks are made equal, that's rarely the case and different locations offer different pros and cons. Read on for the Travelfish wrap on 10 trekking spots excluding Chiang Mai.
This story has been updated. Please check the Top Bangkok Hostels for 2014 story here, or read on! In February 2009, we spent just shy of a couple of weeks wandering the streets of Bangkok, knocking on doors and checking out rooms looking for the best guesthouses in town. The scene has changed a lot since our previous story on this and there's no shortage of fine places to stay, especially in the flashpacker bracket. While Khao San Road remains the epicentre of the backpacker scene, there is an increasing selection of places to stay elsewhere in the city that fit the backpacker and independent traveller mold. So read on to discover our pick for the 10 best guesthouses and hostels in Bangkok.
For some of us, the lure of living abroad is irresistible, and often, teaching the ever-marketable English is the easiest route there. For me -- already a teacher in the US -- it was an obvious means to an end. But for others, the transition isn't as natural. Here's my story -- and a bit about what to expect from yours -- should you decide to give it a go.
With the islands off Krabi growing more and more crowded, Trang offers an ideal alternative for those wanting to find some quieter beaches. With at least a half dozen inhabited islands dangling along the shore, Trang would seem ideal for a week of island hopping. Unfortunately, the truth is that transfers between the islands are expensive, and travelling in the region can be time consuming. To make the most out of your tropical getaway, it's better to simply pick one or two islands, and allow yourself a few days on each. But with six possible island getaways, how do you choose which one is right for you? Each island has a distinct personality and vibe, and each is designed to fit different interests and budgets. So to help you pick, I pose a simple question: what are you looking to do on your island holiday?
To truly get inside the mind of an accomplished scammer you must first serve yourself up as a delectable juicy morsel. So thorough is my ability to get served, I now have a list of warnings and common scams operating in South East Asia to share with you. Please do not feel pity. My intentions were always noble and I have done a fine job in redistributing my wealth to others.
This tour takes in the best temples Ayutthaya has on offer and a few other sites along the way. It allows plenty of time to explore each site, and the full circuit can be done in a day or split over two half days. Those doing a full day need to set off by around 09:00, but you can also bail out half way if you just want to see the top sites on the island or can't be bothered to get up early. If you want to start first thing when it's cooler and the light is better for photography, the temples open at 07:30. Whatever time you go, remember to take sunscreen.
Many travellers to Kanchanaburi book themselves straight onto a bunch of tours so they can plug as many sights and attractions as possible into their scant time available. Our man on the ground took a local's advice and skipped the tours to roll his own Khanchanaburi -- read on to find out how he went.
You're passing through Bangkok and need just a few hours sleep in a cheap guesthouse not far from the airport, but when you Google "accommodation near Bangkok airport" all you get are listings for hotels that cost per night what you budget per week. Don't fret! There's no need to sleep at the airport or on the street, nor to pull an all-nighter at the closest karaoke parlour you can find. You can find a cheap bed close to each of Bangkok's airports -- here's Travelfish's pick.
If you're planning a holiday in Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam and are thinking of flying some of the legs, then the Discovery Airpass -- a flight coupon deal offered by Bangkok Airways, Lao Airlines and Berjaya Air -- can work out to be a slight money saver, delivering on the promise of cheap flights right across Southeast Asia.
A vendor strolls the edge of the beach, a clutch of large paper lanterns folded neatly under her arm. She walks purposefully, hoping to catch someone's eye. She at last finds some interested customers -- a group of friends out from Bangkok for the weekend, who are enjoying a seafood dinner. They take the lantern out onto the sand, gather around and strike a match to light the wick below, watching as the delicate paper begins to glow. They release it, and it slowly rises to join the other lanterns already floating above the sea. As you sit on the cool white sand watching this, you realise this won't be your last visit to Ko Samet.
With the 2007 opening of the Prek Chak / Xa Xia border crossing between Cambodia and Vietnam it's now possible to travel from Ko Chang in Thailand all the way along the Cambodian coastline and into Vietnam. For beach and boat lovers, this is a great trip as from Ko Chang you're able to visit Ko S'dach, Sihanoukville, Ko Russei, Kampot, Kep, Ko Tonsay, Ha Tien and Rach Gia, before finishing off on the glorious Phu Quoc Island. Here's a step by step guide taking you through the entire trip, commencing in Trat and finishing on Phu Quoc.
Set along the banks of a lazy river and located just 25km to the west of Ayutthaya, the small rural community of Ban Lan Khe provides the perfect opportunity to experience Thai family life amid a tranquil setting. Whether looking for somewhere to enhance your travel experience, enjoy nature or simply unwind, this could be just the place for you.
The ancient city of Lamphun, founded by the legendary Thai queen Chamadewi, is just 30 kilometres from Thailand's northern capital of Chiang Mai. Along the way, we pass through a shady avenue of sacred trees blessed with Buddhist orange swathes and offerings, planted by the Prince of Chiang Mai in 1899.
It might be only a slight exaggeration to say that no trip to Thailand is complete without spending time on the rails. Thailand's trains are an economical and comfortable means to get around, and a great way to see the countryside and rub elbows with your charming hosts. They are safer than the bus, cheaper than flying, and the most stylish way to get to where you want to be.
A lot of people show up on Phi Phi Island ready to spend like drunken sailors, and the prices have been rigged accordingly. One way for budget travellers to save money is to simply not go there! But it's definitely worth seeing, so we've come up with some ways to visit the island without emptying your bank account.
Parents should not hesitate for a moment to bring their kids of any age with them on their trip to Thailand -- especially to Phuket. Thais are fantastic with children and Phuket is full of curiosities and wonders your kids will always remember, even if they're too young to remember anything aside from the elephant that just walked past their dinner table... So here's some tips to milk the most out of your family holiday to Phuket.
The trip from Bangkok to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat is one of the most talked about routes in the region: scam buses, visa rip-offs, over-priced taxis and a whole realm of shysters and con artists to boot. But in the end, it's a straightforward trip that's as easy as pie -- if you know what to expect. Here's a cheat sheet to get you there and back without too much fraying of the nerves.
If you're trying to stretch out your funds -- maybe living in cheap guesthouses, fan rooms, washing your laundry in the sink, walking 3km when it'll save you 20B and generally travelling on the cheap, then you've probably heard that Phuket province can be a real budget-buster. This is true, but it would be a shame to skip this beautiful and unique island, so we thought we'd point out some ways for the frugal wayfarer to see the whole island, and stay within budget. Read on to learn how to see Phuket on the cheap.
Phuket calls itself the diving capital of Thailand -- and it hosts about hundred dive shops to back up the claim. Competition for customers has resulted in some good deals on offer, but also some over-packed trips of reduced quality, so be careful when selecting an operator. Ironically, many of the dive sites on offer are actually in other provinces, but all the daytrips are reachable within 2 hour by speedboat. Two-dive trips are usually offered for about 3,000B -- add about 500B for each additional dive site. Live-aboards typically run about 2,000B per day per diver.
Bangkok's brand spanking new airport officially opens September 28 and while a few airlines have already started using it, the bulk of carriers won't start flying in until the 28th. The lead-up to the airport's opening has concentrated on the hyperbolic -- tallest control tower, largest terminal building, most "expensive" luggage scanners and so on, but what about how to get there and away? Here's the nitty gritty.
If you're looking for trackless forest and untamed wilderness, the best advice is usually to head to northern Thailand, or better yet, northern Laos. But just an hour away from Phuket, lie two islands where KFC has yet to even think of opening up its doors, where dirt roads turn unexpectedly into cow paths before being engulfed in forests of wild coconut palms and mangroves, where tourism is still an after thought, and where the clamorous din of commerce is nowhere to be heard. Welcome to the Ko Yao islands.
Long gone are the days when Ko Tao was just for divers. The past few years has seen a flurry of new ventures offering all sorts of land, sea and even air based activities for visitors without the time or the inclination to take a diving course. Here's just a few...
Nestled between two jungle-clad headlands on the northwestern coast of Thailand's Phuket, Trisara boasts gorgeous villas with some of the most breathtaking views from the tropical palm-fringed island, so if you're looking for a bit of unparalleled luxury to break up your thatch bungalows, and have a spare 20,000B or so in your wallet, Trisara is a mighty fine option...
Most travellers come to Ranong for exactly one reason and one reason alone -- to get that passport stamped so they can legally stay in Thailand for another 30 days. While doing the border run isn't particularly pleasant, it is straightforward -- particularly when you've got a Travelfish Howto guide on hand.
The Bangkok to Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao route is one of the most common paths taken by travellers and tourists on their holidays in Thailand. Here's a blow by blow summary of the ins and outs of getting to and from Bangkok to the Gulf of Thailand islands.
The northeast region of Thailand (better known as Isaan) might be hot and dry, but with the lure of Khmer temples John Rowell doesn't mind getting dust on his shoes. We have decided to explore the near north-eastern region of Isaan, an area of Thailand that does not have the usual lush picture postcard image. We have come primarily to see the famous lost temples, legacy of the Khmers, who ruled the area for over 600 years.
As more and more hotels go up on the shores of Ko Chang, more and more divers are going down offshore. The Ko Chang Marine National Park's 52 islands take a backseat to diving in the Similian and Surin islands in the west and Ko Tao further south in the Gulf of Thailand. But for some divers, this only adds to the appeal as the Ko Chang's waters are wonderfully unspoilt by over-diving.
Did you know that to drive a car into the Czech Republic you need to have a warning triangle, a fluorescent jacket, a spare set of glasses (if you wear them), a first aid kit, a fire extinguisher and a replacement bulb for every light in the vehicle? I didn't and nor did Jo Huxster and Antonia (Ants) Bolingbroke-Kent of Tuk to the Road. For Jo and Ants, two British 27 year-old women from Brighton and Norfolk these are the vital snippets of intelligence they've been collecting this year in preparation for a 10,000 mile epic trip from Bangkok to Brighton raising money for the UK mental health outfit Mind... oh and did I mention they're doing it in a bright pink tuk tuk called Ting Tong?
Did you know that within 20 minutes of jumping on a bicycle at Bangkok's Emporium mall you can be pedalling your way through the hidden jungles of Umphang? Neither did I, until I did an Amazing Bicycle Tour in the amazing megalopolis of Bangkok (okay, I admit it, it was Samut Prakan, not Tak).
Thailand is famous for its tropical islands. From Phuket to Ko Lipe, Ko Samui to Ko Tao and from one Ko Chang to another, there's an island for every month, a beach for every week, and a new palm tree to lay under for every day. But the question begs, "What is the best island in Thailand?"
It is early evening and I've just avoided a collision with an orange vendor's cart by leaping nimbly onto the footpath's edge in a side street off one of Bangkok's main roads. Already the traffic noise has notched up a few decibels as this is a business area and soon there will be throngs of workers and shoppers ready to indulge in one of Thailand's favourite pastimes -- eating.
When most people think of Kanchanaburi, the first images to pop into their mind are of lazy days by the riverside, a few waterfalls and perhaps a jungle trek with an elephant thrown in. Bangkok resident Mark Fenn visited Kanchanaburi in late 2005 for the River Kwai Bridge Festival and found attractions and a festival well worth searching out.
Sala Daeng station is number S2 on the Silom line, two stops away from Siam, the main interchange station. It hovers above Silom Road in Bangrak, close to the intersection of Rama IV and parallel to Surawong Road. Simply put, this is one of the liveliest, busiest, most interesting and eclectic areas in the whole city. While it's happening during the day, Silom especially comes to life after dark -- expect a mix of locals, expats and travellers vying for space with makeshift clothing stalls, potent scents wafting from a healthy array of street food carts and music blaring from both pirated CD stalls and upcountry musicians trying to earn a few baht.
Station number S1 on the Silom Line and only one stop away from Siam, the main interchange station, Ratchadamri BTS is one of only a few stations on the Skytrain line that doesn't really offer all that much in terms of exploring. The station is within easy walking distance to several important points of interest, but there are other stations that are even closer.
The best way to get a good guesthouse for the full moon party is to get there early. By early we mean 4-5 days before the party -- not a day or two. This will give you time to find a flophouse to crash in and then spend time triping around Haad Rin and or the island to find the place you want. Remember ALL beaches on Ko Pha Ngan will organise transport to get to the party -- you do not have to stay on Haad Rin to party -- in fact an increasing number of people trip over from Ko Samui just for the night. Also, remember a LOT of people leave before the party.
Phaya Thai station is number N2 on the Phaya Thai line, sitting above the intersection of Phaya Thai Road and Si Ayutthaya Road, two stops away from Siam, the main interchange station. Phaya Thai station belongs to a very exclusive club with only a few members, that being a BTS station that has nary an interesting site or attraction anywhere near it.
Ratchathewi station is number N1 on the Phayathai line and one stop north of Siam, the main Skytrain interchange station. It sits on Phayathai Road. There are a few interesting things to see if you're here, but most of them are clustered directly around the station - stray too far away and you're unlikely to find anything of particular interest.
Sanam Pao station is number N4 on the Sukhumvit line, four stops away from Siam, the main interchange station. It sits on top of Phahon Yothin Road. It also belongs to the small yet exclusive group of BTS stations whose only membership requirement is that they have nothing to offer the traveler looking for anything of cultural interest.
Number S6 on the Silom Line, Saphan Taksin station is named after the bridge on which it shares space with multiple lanes of car and truck traffic. Saphan Taksin bridge spans the Chao Phraya river, and directly beneath the bridge is the largest passenger boat pier on the river. This station is also a gateway to some excellent food, shopping, sightseeing and some of the swankiest hotels in Bangkok.
Number E5 on the Sukhumvit line, Phrom Phong is in the heart of an area known as 'Farang Alley' to some. Countless Western-oriented restaurants, pubs, shops and hotels are found here, and the area's large Japanese community is evidenced by dozens of hole-in-the-wall eateries serving sushi, ramen and katsu don. While it won't satisfy those seeking a 'local' Thai-style Bangkok neighbourhood, this is a lively area area notable for great English-language book shops, English- and Irish-style pubs and a very eclectic mix of outstanding food.
Number S5 on the Silom line, Surasak station doesn't have a great deal to offer in terms of tourist attractions or nightlife, but it does boast a low-key atmosphere and is only one stop from the central express boat pier along the Chao Phraya River. The station is located near the west end of Sathorn Road and borders the financial and business district of Bangkok which is mostly occupied by corporate offices and schools.
Phloen Chit station is number E2 on the Bangkok Skytrain line, which means that it's two stops East of the main skytrain station, Siam. Situated at the point where Sukhumvit road becomes Phloen Chit road, it's close to some fairly important Bangkok landmarks.
Chong Nonsi, station S3 on the Silom line, lies smack in between the high-rise office buildings of Sathorn Road and the hotels, nightlife and dining of Silom Road. The station itself is situated on Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Rd (usually shortened to just 'Naradhiwas'), and the area sees a good mix of businesspeople in power suits and tourists in shorts and flip-flops. While not as vibrant as the area surrounding nearby Sala Daeng (S2) station, Chong Nonsi has plenty to offer.
Chid Lom skytrain station is close to some very big shopping complexes and landmarks where you can snap up everything from captive birds -- release them and get good karma-- to gold plated BVLGARI watches (if that $10 Rolex you bought stops working). The station is number E1 on the Sukhumvit skytrain line, one stop from Siam, the chief interchange station. The main road underneath the station is called Phloen Chit, and this is where most of the interesting things to see are located, particularly to the west. This area is quite farang-heavy and a bit upscale.
Soi Thong Lo is quickly becoming one of the more interesting areas in Bangkok, with high-rise condos and funky stores, enticing restaurants and eclectic art galleries flinging open their doors. An afternoon stroll here will leave you highly caffeinated, very full and possibly even a little bit cultured.
The first in our series of "Exploring Bangkok by Skytrain" series -- with a new station to be added every Friday afternoon (just in time for the weekend). We cover everything from restaurant and bars to little-known art-cafes, and they're all walking distance from Bangkok's BTS Skytrain.
As Friday beckons, the minds of many a desk-chained Bangkokian wanders to where one might escape for some relaxation and rejuvenation... Ko Si Chang -- too close; Ko Samet -- been there, done that; Ko Chang -- just that bit too far away; Ko Kut -- way too farflung. So what's one to do with a free weekend and a desire for a bit of sand, sea and socialising? What about Ko Mun Nork?
Of all the holiday destinations in northern Thailand, Chiang Mai is one that has seen the emergance of some truly outstanding guesthouses and hotels. Regardless of if you want to spend 200B or 10,000B, chances are you'll be able to find a guesthouse or hotel that not only represents excellent value, but that is also comfortable, charming, friendly and quiet -- yes it is true -- cheap places like that really do exist in Chiang Mai.
The vast majority of the roads in northern Thailand are paved and 99 times out of a 100 a Honda Dream will be more than sufficient (as long as you don't mind the occasion sections spent permanently in first gear). A very interesting and little trafficked route is the Chiang Rai Loop -- a fun and beautiful ride with dozens of kilometres of stunning scenery and next to no traffic.
Nearly all first-time travellers to Thailand choose to embark on a hilltribe trek in the mountainous area surrounding Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son in Thailand's north. While the majority will have a great trip, a substantial minority will have a very poor experience, either due to sub-standard operators or unrealistic expectations. Here are a few pointers that newbie trekkers should keep in mind when selecting a trek. We're focusing on Thailand, but the essence remains mostly true elsewhere in the region too.
With a rapidly developing range of accommodation from ultra-basic thatch bungalows for 80B a night through to totally decadent luxury suites for 5,000B a night, Ko Pha Ngan truly offers something for everyone. If the choice doesn't leave you floundering to make a decision, you'll also have to choose the atmosphere you like best for a holiday: there's well over a dozen beaches with characters spanning hedonist-haven to party-animal to secluded strips of sand that no guidebook has ever mentioned. Here's a cheat sheet to some of Ko Pha Ngan's better beachside options -- we'll leave the accommodation choices for another time.
I'm reclining in the front passenger seat of a 40-year-old Mercedes 200 series as we pull up to the 10th military checkpoint in 20 kilometres en route to Hala Bala National Park in Thailand's strife-torn Narathiwat province. One of the soldiers, surprised to see a farang smiling at him, waves us through without a thought. My Yawi-speaking driver guns the car and goes back to yabbering about the price of cigarettes, still in shock at my revelation that a pack of Marlboro cost over 400B in Australia. Checkpoints aside, the violence of the far south couldn't be further out of mind.
Thailand's strife-torn far south is a region largely under siege, with 9pm curfews and a heavy military presence throughout. But when I backpacked through the provinces of Narathiwat, Pattani, Yala and Songkhla in June, I also found time and time again genuine Thai hospitality that has become somewhat of a rarity in other parts of the more heavily-touristed south.
With over a dozen beaches and bays and hundreds of accommodation choices from deluxe hotels and luxury spas to thatch huts and cheap bungalows, Ko Samui has a wealth of options for the discerning traveller. But how to pick the right spot? As hotel propaganda neglects phrases like "under the flight path", "disco next door", "no beach at low tide" and "30 minute walk to beach", you'll need a bit more research -- the following pointers may help.
This story has been updated. Please check the Top Bangkok Hostels for 2014 story here, or read on! With hundreds of guesthouses spread across the city, Bangkok can be one of the trickiest places in Thailand to decide on a place to stay. Although the Khao San Road area is popular, other parts of Bangkok are just as good, if not better. So don't rush to follow the hordes to Khao San Road -- do your research -- there are a lot of other options out there -- and pick a guesthouse that will fit in your budget, suit your style and let you do what you need to do easily.
The first time I stayed on Khao San Road was after a trip through Nepal and India in the early 1990's. I remember arriving late at night, new to Thailand and climbing out of the cab, dazed and confused straight into the arms of a tout who led me to a flophouse in the back of KSR. Windowless with cardboard walls, a filthy mattress and a never-ending racket from the rooms that surrounded mine, from memory it cost about 50B -- in those days about US$2 -- what a bargain I remember thinking.
Thailand is slowly recovering from the tsunami that devastated the region on Boxing Day 2004 -- some areas far quicker than others. We were in Sri Lanka at the time of the tsunami and heard shocking reports of the devastation as we remained in the most affected Sri Lankan areas. Around the one month anniversary of the tsunami, we decided to follow-up on these reports and visited the three worst affected areas in Thailand -- Phuket, Khao Lak and Ko Phi Phi to see how the cleanup and reconstruction was going. Beach to beach the damage varied considerably as did the stages of reconstruction (if any). What we found were tremendous levels of destruction, matched only by the spirit of those affected to get back on their feet.
Ko Tao grants more PADI certificates than anywhere else in the world with the exception of Cairns, Australia and every year thousands of people visit the Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao to either get a PADI certificate or just do some recreational diving. Although many say that the best diving is on Thailand's western coast at the Similan and Surin Island groups, the diving on the east coast is still described by many as world class.
During my first two-month trip to Thailand I had at least 20 massages in which I was prodded, twisted, crippled and then repaired by some of the best masseuses and worst hacks in the country. At 200B for a beach massage (back when the baht was 25B to a $1), they weren't cheap, but I just couldn't help myself.
I burst into bitter tears the evening we arrive, a day of eating raw food behind me. I want a hot shower, a pina colada at sunset and white-linen sheets to snooze under -- a blissful week of indulgence. But the bathroom door is jammed open to the menacing jungle, a toad hopping by is eyeing me as I douse myself in cold water and I won't be eating solid food for the next seven days.
"You are a very lucky man. A very happy man. You are a lucky man. Do you know why you are a lucky man? Show me your palm. How is it that I can tell you the name of your mother and your girlfriend? How is that I can tell you your age and how many brothers and sisters do you have? How is it that I can tell you what work that you do? Come with me to my place. Come."
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- Tuk to the Road Charity ride
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- Interviews (8)
- Explore Bangkok by BTS (18)
- All stories
- Bangkok by skytrain: Ari
- Bangkok by skytrain: Asok
- Bangkok by skytrain: Chid Lom
- Bangkok by skytrain: Chong Nonsi
- Bangkok by skytrain: Mo Chit
- Bangkok by skytrain: National Stadium
- Bangkok by skytrain: On Nut
- Bangkok by skytrain: Phaya Thai
- Bangkok by skytrain: Phloen Chit
- Bangkok by skytrain: Phrom Phong
- Bangkok by skytrain: Ratchadamri
- Bangkok by skytrain: Ratchathewi
- Bangkok by skytrain: Sala Daeng (S2)
- Bangkok by skytrain: Sanam Pao
- Bangkok by skytrain: Saphan Taksin
- Bangkok by skytrain: Siam
- Bangkok by skytrain: Surasak
- Bangkok by skytrain: Thong Lor
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