Vietnam feature stories

What is a good guesthouse in Hanoi?
When it comes to finding a good guesthouse in Hanoi, making the right choice is a bit like making an omelette -- one mistake and you've landed in a right sticky mess with egg all over your face. What follows are some of our favourite Hanoi picks to hopefully make finding the right guesthouse that little bit easier for you.... What is a good guesthouse in Hanoi? -- full story

Hanoi escape
With its picturesque lakes, bustling streets and wealth of attractions for visitors, Hanoi is an ideal destination for a long weekend away or a stop on a backpacking trip.... Hanoi escape -- full story

Hoi An -- Walking over the dragon
Hoi An on Vietnam's central coast is a town that time forgot, writes John Rowell. We're halfway over Hoi An's famous covered Chua Cau bridge before we realise that we are treading carefully. Legend has it that an underground dragon stretching from India to Japan caused earthquakes by lashing out when in a really bad mood.... Hoi An -- Walking over the dragon -- full story

Ha Long Bay conclusions and a confession
And now, our adventures at sea have drawn to close. We've sampled the budget, mid-range, and luxury tour options. And as we reflect on the experience, what conclusions can be drawn? ... Ha Long Bay conclusions and a confession -- full story

Ha Long Bay for budget-busters
One night/two day upper-range tour Cost: US$130 Operator: Buffalo Tours Many of the luxury tours offer two nights on the boat, and skip the whole Cat Ba Island experience, so we booked a two-day, one-night tour just to give us a taste of luxury. ... Ha Long Bay for budget-busters -- full story

Ha Long Bay for flashpackers
Two night/three day mid-range tour Cost: US$74 Operator: Saigon Cafe Tours As with the budget tour, we kicked off with a packed minivan, but unlike the previous tour the staff were better trained, spoke better English, and were more informative. Again we stopped off at the crafts centre for the victims of Agent Orange, but were spared the confusion of any more stops and delivered straight to the pier.... Ha Long Bay for flashpackers -- full story

Ha Long Bay for backpackers
Two night/three day budget tour Cost: US$40 Operator: Open Tour and Travel Crammed into a jam-packed minivan, our tour commenced with us circling the block a few times to avoid getting ticked by the cops for illegally stopping to pick up some of our passengers, but then we were away and our guide introduced himself. In his quite decent English, he explained that the 160km journey to Ha Long City would take three hours -- apparently the slow going was due to the police -- not to worry, if there were no cops around, we were assured, our driver would attempt to speed whenever possible.... Ha Long Bay for backpackers -- full story

How to pick the right Ha Long Bay cruise
The first thing you need to know about Ha Long Bay is that it's beautiful and well-worth seeing. The only real question for the traveller in Vietnam is how best to see it and, like many things in Vietnam, things are never as clear a they could be.... How to pick the right Ha Long Bay cruise -- full story

Doing the DMZ from Hue
The Vietnam War was one of the defining events of the second half or the twentieth century. No matter where you live in the world, you're bound to be aware of the impact that conflict had on culture and society. No matter what you believe, that belief has been inevitably shaped by the lessons learned, and not learned, as well as the lives lost, and the lives forever changed by that one, singular event. ... Doing the DMZ from Hue -- full story

Con Dao escape
Only a couple of hundred miles lie between Ho Chi Minh City and Con Dao -- a small group of islands in the South China Sea. Considering its proximity to the backpacker hub of Saigon, very few people make the journey, probably opting for Phu Quoc as their primary island getaway choice -- but labelling both islands with the same 'short break' brush would be unwise. ... Con Dao escape -- full story

Exploring Kon Tum
So you're in Kon Tum with a bit of time to burn, but you're not interested in throw-backs to the French period, nor another deserted battlefield that was picked clear by scavengers a decade ago. That's good, because Kon Tum offers some of the least-known but possibly most rewarding trekking in Vietnam.... Exploring Kon Tum -- full story

Saigon's top 10 cafés
Ho Chi Minh City may look like an unforgiving urban jungle, but resting just below the surface are dozens of wonderful hideaways, where an ice cold fruit blend, a sumptuous salad and a sparkling cocktail create a welcome distraction from the world outside. Our man in Saigon, Jon Hoff, twirled the caffeine dial to 10 and delivered this list of his top ten spots to chill out in Saigon.... Saigon's top 10 cafés -- full story

A short break in Nha Trang
A bustling urban centre or a quaint seaside town? An enchanting retreat or an irritating tourist trap? Our man in Saigon, Jon Hoff had a poke around Vietnam's premier beach destination -- here's his report.... A short break in Nha Trang -- full story

Buying a touring motorbike in Vietnam
By far, the best way to experience Vietnam is by motorbike. As with elsewhere in southeast Asia, here, the motorbike is king. They are cheap to buy, easy to repair, and they can take you places the tour bus would never dare to go. What's more, there are no restrictions on foreigners buying motorbikes. All you need is a passport and valid visa, and you'll receive a title of ownership and a deed of transfer. Rentals will suffice for most, but if you plan on serious bike time, buying is more economical -- you can even sell the bike before you leave and recoup most of the expense.... Buying a touring motorbike in Vietnam -- full story

Lonely Planet Vietnam 9 -- LP's best try yet
For the first-time visitor to Vietnam, Lonely Planet's Vietnam 9 overall is a fine production -- and is easily Lonely Planet's best swing at Vietnam -- even if the style police are trying to ruin the show.... Lonely Planet Vietnam 9 -- LP's best try yet -- full story

What is really worth seeing in the Hoi An culture tour?
An oddity of Hoi An is the bizarre ticket system where, in order to see all the museums, old houses, assembly halls and so on you have to buy three tickets. This leaves people in a fix -- should they splash out on the tickets or just take pot luck and see what they score. We decided to save you the trouble, buy the three tickets for you, see it all for you and let you know what is worth seeing and what isn't. Guess what? You won't be needing more than one ticket -- read on to find out why.... What is really worth seeing in the Hoi An culture tour? -- full story

Mission: DMZ -- A tactical briefing for travellers
The war between Vietnam and America is, thankfully, long over but the struggle goes on between would-be tourists and would-be guides in Vietnam's demilitarized zone. Happily, the only casualties these days take the form of disappointment and a depleted wallet. If you read our companion feature, Doing the DMZ from Hue you'll know how we feel about the cheapie tours out of Hue. Our strong advice: spend some time and a little more money on a small-group, private tour with a good guide. This is easier said than done, so here are some rules of engagement.... Mission: DMZ -- A tactical briefing for travellers -- full story

How do I catch a train in Vietnam?
One of the best ways to travel in Vietnam is by train. Vietnam's rail network extends to most destinations of interest to a first-time visitor in Vietnam and it's safe, comfortable, not too expensive, and allows you to see the countryside at a leisurely pace. What more could you ask for? Read on to find out just how Vietnam's train system works -- where the trains go, what they cost and how long they take -- along with a swack of other useful information.... How do I catch a train in Vietnam? -- full story