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Cambodia: Getting around

For a country as hard-up on its luck as Cambodia, getting around is surprisingly straightforward. All the primary trunk routes are all-weather sealed roads, there is a reasonably developed bus network, a comprehensive "we can go anywhere if the price is right" taxi for hire system and, while some of the routes have faded away, it is still possible to get to some places by boat. Overall fares are very reasonable.

Plane

Start with the worst first. Cambodia goes through national airlines like there's no tomorrow. Carriers that have faded from the scene include Angkor Airways, First Cambodia Airlines, Kampuchea Airlines, Mekong Airlines, President Airlines, Royal Air Cambodge, Royal Khmer Airlines, Royal Phnom Penh Airways, and, most recently, Siem Reap Airways -- and that list is for just the last ten years or so.

As it stands, there is no Cambodian airline flying in-country, but Thai carrier Bangkok Airways flies the very popular Phnom Penh to Siem Reap route. Bangkok Airways routes are sometimes, though not always, listed on Kayak.com.

Train

If you thought the airline network was a dog's breakfast, you'll love the train system. Describing Cambodia's rail network as antiquated is generous in the extreme. Originally there were two lines, Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh to Battambang. As far as we're aware the Sihanoukville line doesn't run anymore. The Battambang train runs once a week, with the trip taking anywhere from 18 to 24 hours. It departs on Phnom Penh on the Saturday, returning the following day. Many foreign passengers go for the ride, but get bored and jump off after one leg (for example at Pursat if coming from Battambang). Fares are nominal.

The train system shouldn't really be taken seriously, but for novelty value (you can easily sit on the roof of the car should you wish) it is unbeatable.

Local buses and minibuses

In recent years, as Cambodia's road network has improved, so has the bus system. There are now a number of private bus companies running out of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap serving destinations across the country. The hubs are Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville.

The main operators are Capitol Tours, GST Express, Mailinh, Mekong Express and Phnom Penh Sorya.

Key domestic routes include:
Phnom Penh - Siem Reap - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Sihanoukville - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Kampot - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Ko Kong - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Battambang - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Kratie - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Kompong Cham - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Stung Treng - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Ban Lung - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Sisophon - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Poipet - Phnom Penh
Siem Reap - Battambang - Siem Reap
Sihanoukville - Kampot - Sihanoukville

Key international routes include:
Phnom Penh - Ho Chi Minh City - Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh - Bangkok - Phnom Penh
Sihanoukville - Ho Chi Minh City - Sihanoukville (via Phnom Penh)
Siem Reap - Ho Chi Minh City - Siem Reap (via Phnom Penh)

Automobile

Share taxis for long distance travel are a very popular way to get around and, if you've got a small group of three or four, this is a very cost-effective and fast way to move. Generally a taxi charter is priced at six passengers, so you have to pay six passengers' worth to get the car for yourself. Hiring a car without a driver is far less common.

Motorbike

Cambodia is awash in motodops -- guys with a motorcycle and a baseball cap -- who'll take you anywhere on their bike for a few dollars. This is a great way to do half-day tours, such as exploring Battambang, but longer distance riding, such as Phnom P -- for example exploring Battambang, but longer distance riding, such as Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, isn't the norm. Larger enduro-style dirt bikes can be hired long term from a number of dirt bike hire shops in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Prices are reasonable, but be sure to carefully check the bike, and whatever you do, do not use the chain and padlock provided by the shop to lock up the bike at night -- use your own.

Bicycle

Long, with a scenic flat coastline, Cambodia can be a great destination for cyclists. Most nearly every town in Cambodia will have some lodgings, so you shouldn't struggle for a room. Make sure you pack a good supply of inner tubes and patch kits and of course, your bike -- but you probably knew that already. Cambodian bikes are of a poor standard, so absolutely bring your own.

Boat

Only two regular ferry runs still operate in Cambodia -- Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and Siem Reap to Battambang. Boats no longer run north up the Mekong to Kompong Cham and we've heard the Ko Kong to Sihanoukville boat now only goes as far as Ko Sdech, making it close to useless for travellers (other than those heading to Ko Sdech).

The Phnom Penh to Siem Reap boat is worth doing once and once only. It is expensive (when compared to the bus), the middle of the trip is boring (you're in the middle of a lake with no scenery) and, if you sit on the roof, chances are you'll get sunburnt. Do it once then catch the bus back.

The Siem Reap to Battambang trip is much more of a lucky dip -- the quality of the boats varies from one day to the next, overloading is the norm, boats run aground regularly and occasionally sink. That said the Battambang portion of the trip is spectacular -- very, very beautiful. So if you're not too fussed about taking dodgy boat trips, give it a go. In windy, stormy weather though we'd go with the bus, as the shallow lake gets a big chop on it very quickly, making for a very uncomfortable trip.