The tiny provincial capital of Mondulkiri, Sen Monorom is one of the least Khmer towns in Cambodia. Set at the centre of a patchwork quilt of grassy rolling hills, the town is but a blip on the radar and you could pass it all the way through in barely the blink of an eye.

Visitors will note that on the road into town from Snoul, the hills are laid out with a checker board pattern of dirt roads -- these are in preparation for the planting of massive and very controversial pine plantations -- once all the grassy hills are covered in pine, the place will feel even less Cambodian.

The centre of Sen Monorom is clustered around the small market and wedged against the currently non-operating dirt airstrip. Most of the restaurants and the best guesthouse are within easy walking distance of the market.

Most travellers spend a half way wandering around Sen Monorom and then do a series of organised or self-driven trips out to the surrounding waterfalls. Some are within walking distance of town, while the bigger falls are long motorcycle rides. Sign-posting swings between minimal and non-existent, so a guide can be a good idea. The popular backpacker haunts aside from hiring motorcycles (Daelims only), can also organise from half day through to multiple day trekking and elephant riding trips.