The capital of Ratanakiri, Ban Lung is little more than a hideously dusty or muddy (depending on the season) truck-stop of a town set pretty much at the centre of the province. Connected by dirt road to Stung Treng, very rough trail to Sen Monorom and by air to Phnom Penh (with the unfortunately named PMT air) Ban Lung is one of the most far-flung of the Khmer capitals.

Ban Lung is a fairly recent invention -- the original capital of Rattanakiri was Lumpat, about an hours motorcycle ride from Ban Lung. Lumpat was obliterated by bombing during the US War, and the capital was moved to a new location. Pretty much all that remains of old Lumpat is a roundabout -- which must have been made of sturdier materials than pretty much everything else.

There is a good range of guesthouses and hotels in Ban Lung, and given its flight connections to Phnom Penh, it is developing into a popular choice for people living in Phnom Penh who want a weekend getaway. Most visitors stay at least three to four nights as there is plenty to do in the province, virtually all of which can be done as daytrips from the provincial capital. The Yak Lom crater lake is pretty much the only attraction within walking distance of the capital -- the surrounding waterfalls, minority cemeteries and other attractions are all best visited by hired motodop, motorbike or by car. In wet season the road condition seriously deteriorates.