Kep was once the beach getaway for Cambodia's elite and after experiencing a long period of decline, it's staging a slow but steady comeback.

Over the last few years much of the beachside property that had for decades hosted nothing but ruined villas and tangled jungle has been picked up by foreign royalty, merchant bankers, expatriates and wealthy Khmers among others. Recently, the salubrious Knai Bang Chatt was included in Conde Nast Traveler's Hot List for 2007 -- change is indeed on the way.

More change still, comes courtesy of the border with Vietnam finally officially opening. Yes, the Cambodia/Vietnam border is open and travellers with a valid Vietnamese visa can enter Vietnam at the Prek Chak / Xa Xia crossing a twenty minute motorbike ride from Kep.

While much changes, much stays the same. Among Khmers, Kep remains best known for its fresh crab, and on weekends hordes of locals descend into Kep to eat all the crab they can get their hands on -- it was totally crabbed out when we last visited during P'chum Ben 2007.

For Phnom Penh based expats Kep remains an ideal weekend getaway -- crab or no crab.

Kep's popularity is a little strange though, as the beach here really isn't very good at all. Suitable for a float in a car-tyre or a potter around in a sailboat, this is beachside for munching rather than tanning. While in Kep, we heard talks of plans to cart in white sand to make things prettier -- we hope the crabs don't mind.

While it's not a fabulous spot for swimming, the sunsets across the bay to Bokor National Park are stunning and this is a great place for a lazy spell spent in a hammock. Bring a good book (and make sure your choice of lodging has hammocks).

There are offshore islands which are well worth visiting and we've got a very soft spot in our heart for Ko Tonsay, better known as Rabbit Island. Rabbit Isle is easily visited by boat from Kep on a day trip, or rudimentary accommodation is available should you want to overnight there.

The main island you can see offshore is Vietnam's Phu Quoc Island –- which is totally off-limits from Kep (though it can be reached from both Ha Tien and Rach Gia across the border). Any Cambodian will tell you they think it was stolen by the Vietnamese and looking at the basic geography of the coastline, it's easy to see where they're coming from.