Koh Rong Saloem

Koh Rong Saloem is just two hours' and yet a world away from Sihanoukville. The island of many spellings — it's also known as Koh Rung Samloem, Koh Rong Samloem, Koh Rong Samlon and a few other variations — is owned by the Cambodian navy who have a base there. Thus far the government has not sold Koh Rong Saloem as they have with most of its neighbouring islands — word is that they're saving the best for last.

The western side has three gorgeous yellow sand beaches, which are perfect for watching the deep pink sunsets every evening. On the eastern side is the heart-shaped Saracen Bay, named after a British ship that once sailed there, and known for diving and snorkelling. The beaches on this side are an eye-blinding white, although the beauty is marred somewhat by the scattered debris from the local fishing boats.

At the top of the island is the home of a small fishing village called Mai Pei Bei, or 23 in Khmer. Marine Conservation Cambodia, a volunteer-funded ecotourism project, is based here and offer volunteering opportunities to visitors such as teaching in the local village and marine conservation. Those who are visiting for just a few days can still participate in beach cleanups. Because of their strong relationship with the organisation, Village 23 is a particularly friendly place for tourists to visit and see life in a rural fishing village.

If volunteering isn't your thing, there are many snorkelling and diving opportunities on the island — both Scuba Nation and Eco Sea in Sihanoukville do dives here and all of the places to stay on the island also rent snorkelling gear. There's also a conservation-based diving outfit, Angkor Dive Cambodia, whose offerings are a bit more ecologically-minded.

Other activities include trekking — the centre of the island is mostly jungle — and fishing the old-fashioned way with a line and hook. If that sounds too tiring you can always relax with a cocktail on the porch of the aptly-named Lazy Beach. There are enough options on Koh Rong Saloem to keep everyone happy, the only problem is deciding which part of the island to stay on.

It's possible to get a longtail to take you from Lazy Beach to Mai Pei Bei for $20, so if you can't decide, try both.