Banteay Chhmar

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Cambodia's best kept secret, and very far from the beaten-tourist track, Banteay Chhmar is an enchanting ancient temple complex in northwest Cambodia. Despite most of it being in shambles and suffering years of looting, what remains is simply stunning.

In addition to Banteay Chhmar temple complex, the surrounding area has points of interest such as Banteay Top, Samnang Tasok, Boeung Cheung Kru (or Pol Pot's lake) and other ancient temples, also in delightful ruin. Unlike Angkor Wat, which has been cleared of overgrowth and has a well-ordered appearance, here you can have a true Indiana Jones-like experience exploring the rambling site.

On our first visit to Banteay Chhmar in late 2010, we had the temple to ourselves. Unlike at Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, there were no paved roads, tuk tuks, Western restaurants, banana pancakes or internet cafes. The two hour road to here from Sisophon has to be one of the worst in the country, but once you arrive you'll be rewarded with a side of Cambodia rarely seen by tourists. Take advantage of this opportunity while you can as this will probably change one the site receives World Heritage inscription, as it's currently a top candidate.

If time allows, the Banteay Chhmar experience is certainly worth a couple of days on your Cambodian travel itinerary. A rushed day trip from Sisophon is really not enough time, but will suffice at a pinch. Spending at least a night or two at a nearby homestay is highly recommended.

Upon arrival, your first stop should be a visit to Banteay Chhmar itself, with the remarkable bas relief and relics that lie within making it the area's premier destination. From there head to Prasat Samnang Tasok, a hidden jungle temple nearby located within such thick forest that you won't even know it's there until you're only a few metres away — look up and realise you're stumbling around under a Bayon-style tower.

Another top destination in the area is Banteay Top, with the outstanding views you'll encounter along the way making it well worth the trip.

When you're through with the temples, the countryside is worth some exploration. Hire a bicycle or scooter and spend hours enjoying the rural scenery. We encountered golden rice fields, friendly locals and an intriguing way of life, with stops on the road from time to time to allow herds of cattle to cross the bumpy dirt roads.

There are a number of interesting initiatives taking place here. Heritage Watch is running English classes and will have most likely been responsible for the training of your guide to Banteay Chhmar, while CBT, Community Based Tourism, is a programme supported by Global Heritage Fund, which is the same organisation working to preserve the temples of Banteay Chhmar. They run a homestay programme at Banteay Chhmar to ensure that the local community reaps the benefits of the emerging local tourism industry while preserving the local community. Currently six houses participate. You don't get to choose which house you stay in, as they take turns strictly to ensure that each family involved benefits equally.

Warnings to travellers
Stay on marked paths when exploring the countryside surrounding Banteay Chhmar temple. The area hasn't been completely demined.

When exploring the inner portion of Banteay Chhmar temple, you'll have to walk across piles of sandstone blocks. A loose brick could result in a smashed camera or worse. Walk slowly and test each brick before taking a full step.

Orientation
You can hire an English speaking guide, rent bicycles/scooters or arrange various activities through the CBT office, located just east of Banteay Chhmar temple. As of late 2010 no internet cafes or banks were in the area. Plan ahead as you can access the internet or use ATM machines in Sisophon.

You can exchange money or purchase food and drinks at the market located in the southeast part of town. The stalls close around 17:00.

Shared taxis can be found across the street from the market in the morning. Otherwise you can arrange a taxi through the CBT office.

There is a tiny health centre near the temple but for anything remotely serious head to Phnom Penh.

Accommodation: Banteay Chhmar
CBT Homestay Program | Homestay |

Text and/or map last updated on 20th September, 2011.

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Backchat from the Travelfish community

Banteay Chhmar Visitor's Website

I would like to let readers know that the Banteay Chhmar Community-Based Tourism (CBT) group now has their own website:
visitbanteaychhmar.org

The website has up-to-date information on prices for homestays, tour guides, meals and activities. You can also view videos about the temple's history, the CBT group and the temple conservation project.

You can contact the CBT directly about any questions you may have regarding travel, accommodations, tour guides, group tours and activities. You can now reach them through telephone, email (info@visitbanteaychhmar.org) and an online Contact Form.

For the record, I am the English teacher for the Banteay Chhmar CBT group. I work for Heritage Watch and also work closely with Global Heritage Fund, who are overseeing the temple conservation project.

Please contact the CBT if you have any questions or need help.
Thank you
Andrew Marino
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
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- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By Andrewjmarino (dabbler)
Written on 2nd April, 2011 after a visit to Banteay Chhmar in April, 2011

Also reviewed by Andrewjmarino: Hoi An, Phimai, Surin,
Banteay Chhmar...a tradition of remoteness!

A great article about an un-touristed but fascinating destination that is worth a detour (allow two days from Siem Reap). When I went in Dec '09 they were supposedly getting about 15 visitors a day...but it didn't seem like that many.

Homestays were $5 per night, very basic, but clean. Food selection and times available was limited. But that’s part of the fun! And if you did enough temple walking you'll be able to sleep anywhere or eat anything. (-: As you point out, the area is filled with temples and ruins, not just within the main complex.

The site's archaeological potential is enormous. Because of its remote location it's a time capsule of Khmer history. Of course, the remote location has also attracted looters that the local govt and groups like Heritage Watch and GHF are now working to control.

As far as the remote tradition, this place has *always* been remote! The French explorer Aymonier traveled there around 1883, followed by Lunet de Lajonquière 20 years later. Henri Parmentier published the first major article in 1910. George Groslier visited by ox-cart to conduct the first survey of the site, arriving on January 1, 1914.

Groslier later returned to do a detailed survey. Travelfish readers will enjoy his comments and vintage photos from this 1937 article.

http://www.devata.org/2010/01/banteay-chhmar-1937-ancient-khmer-city-in-cambodia/

Also, Darryl Collins wrote a great piece about the first automobiles to reach BC...led by none other than George Groslier

http://www.devata.org/2010/12/banteay-chhmar-automobile-adventure-in-1924/
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By Kent_Davis (dabbler)
Written on 23rd December, 2010 after a visit to Banteay Chhmar in December, 2009

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