Sam Neua

Hua Phan and its capital Sam Neua rival Phongsali for the title of Laos' most remote province. Mountainous and particularly scenic, the province has a mish-mashed network of dirt and sealed roads and lacklustre public transport to match. The going is slow in Hua Phan.

During Pathet Lao times, Sam Neua (also spelt Xam Nua) and the nearby caves at Vieng Xai formed the Pathet Lao capital, and it was here and in equally remote Phongsali, that the Pathet Lao forces regrouped after the Geneva Accord.

Hua Phan gets only the most determined travellers passing through, as the going is slow and the delays common. Nevertheless many find it a very rewarding part of the country -- certainly one of the least-touristed parts of Laos.

Sam Neua sits in a small picturesque valley, a town of white concrete houses topped with red roofs, surrounded by the vibrant green of young rice fields and the grey-green of the mountains. The town is famous for two major reasons.

Firstly, for the beauty and originality of the locally-woven fabrics, which are sought after by women all over Laos, and are now to be found as the most eye-catching and beautifully crafted pieces in markets and shops countrywide.

Secondly, Sam Neua is perfect as a base for exploring nearby Vieng Xai, where, from 1964 to 1975, the Pathet Lao lived, worked and ran the war from inside caves deep in stunning karst limestone cliffs. A number of these caves are open for visitors, so with an official guide you can see their stark living environments and the dark, damp conditions they had to put up with to avoid being bombed.

After the war, a number of so-called re-education camps were established in the region, where members of the old regime were "rehabilitated". Most camps were closed down by 1989, but it is believed two may two still be in operation near Sop Hao and the Vietnamese border. Seeking information about these camps is not recommended, they remain a taboo subject for the Laos Government at both a national and local level.

A number of foreign tourists are starting to visit Sam Neua, so infrastructure is developing as in other Lao towns. There is quite a number of decent guesthouses, and a limited selection of restaurants.

Shops, markets and basic amenities are in plentiful supply and you can find enough to see and do for a couple of days -- enough at least to make your journey worthwhile.

There was an internet cafe, but when we visited it only had working PCs and no internet service. They are still advertising in town as being an internet service, so it may restart any day soon. International phone calls can be made from the centre of town in the post office.

It's definitely worth a visit if you're interested in visiting the caves or as part of a tough travelling loop across the rooftop of Indochina.