Luang Prabang

The Lao province of Luang Prabang and its eponymous capital are two of the most atmospheric and popular destinations in Laos.

The riverine town of Luang Prabang, once the capital of Laos and still considered to be its religious heart, breathes a rich meld of French Indochinese architecture and subtle Theravada Buddhist temples, and imparts on visitors an especially unique vibe. Luang Prabang is strikingly situated on a peninsula formed by the confluence of two rivers. Its palm-lined riverbanks, ochredaubed houses, terracotta roofs and saffron-robed monks all come together to form a picture postcard increasingly difficult to find in Southeast Asia.

Somnambulant and languid, its peaceful feel masks its fascinating history of conquest and recapture, and only hints at the intricate culture and complex traditions that take place here every day.

The former royal capital, the town sits on a long thin spit of land set at the confluence of the Mekong and Khan Rivers. Littered with dozens of wats, colonial buildings and trading houses, its tree-lined banks, dotted with temple roofs and the rising peak of Mt Phousi, Luang Prabang has enchanted those who arrive by boat for centuries -- and docking by boat remains one of the best ways to arrive here.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, the town was described by the global body as "an outstanding example of the fusion of traditional architecture and Lao urban structures with those built by the European colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries. Its unique, remarkably well-preserved townscape illustrates a key stage in the blending of these two distinct cultural traditions."

 

A simple walk about town illustrates these ideas -- Luang Prabang is picturesque, with all the charm of a quaint European town mixed with the wonderful, woodsy spice of Asia.

The city has been considered one of Southeast Asia's must sees for well over a decade, so untouched it's not. With an international airport and daily connections to Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam, many people fly in and fly out -- in the process seeing nothing more of Laos. This means more foreign visitors per temple than perhaps anywhere else in the region (than perhaps Angkor Wat), so rein in any expectations of having the place to yourself.

With an outstanding range of restaurants, guesthouses and hotels, a gorgeous location and super-friendly people, it does have a frequent habit of wrecking tightly planned itineraries -- be sure to allow at least a few days to really take this wonderful town in.

Sleepy much of the year, Luang Prabang bursts with life during Pimai Lao, Laos' new year. If you're planning on visiting at that time of the year, be sure to book a room well in advance.

With the capital at its centre, Luang Prabang province stretches north to Phongsali and the Vietnamese frontier, east to Hua Phan and Xieng Khuang, south to Vientiane and west to Udomxai and Sainyabuli. The east of the province in particular is a vast, mountainous swath of real estate with next to nothing in the way of development, but to the north you'll find the villages of Nong Kiaow and and Muang Ngoi, laid-back, stunning riverside spots attracting a steady backpacker trade. Both can be reached by boat or road and if you've planned on striking north to Phongsali, you'll definitely want to set aside a day or two in one or the other -- or both.

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