Muang Ngoi

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A gorgeous, sleepy town, Muang Ngoi gets our vote as one of the friendliest places in all of Laos. There is no road access — only boats — and the lack of motorbikes and other vehicles is refreshing. Similarly, you won't find any banks, internet access, or landline telephones (locals say that their mobile phones sometimes work), so remember to bring cash and tell your friends and family you'll be incommunicado.

The town is home to about 800 people and has a small school and a temple. Limited electricity means that the locals' lifestyle is aligned with daylight hours, and the town shuts down by nine or ten at night and wakes up with the noisy roosters at daybreak.

While the locals are genuinely warm and welcoming, they're also eager to cash in on the tourists flocking to their tiny town. Some locals may persist in offering you their services as trekking guide, but they're just as likely to invite you to join them for a game of sepak takraw or petanque.

Smaller than Nong Kiaow, Muang Ngoi offers a similar scope of activities that makes the most of the area's natural beauty: trekking, boating, caving, camping, kayaking. Nearly every guesthouse can arrange a tour with a local guide, but Lao Youth Travel is the most reputable spot. Saang Tours has also been around a long time and offers overnight camping trips, river tubing, and boat trips to nearby villages.

Almost all the guesthouses wisely have hammocks on their balconies, and the favourite pastime of most visitors is simply swinging and appreciating the view. During the cool season the herbal sauna at Moon Guesthouse is guaranteed to warm you up for only 15,000 kip or they offer a range of rub-downs with oil or traditional Lao style.

Directly in the path of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the area was quite heavily bombed during the war and locals lived in nearby caves to avoid the falling bombs. Some of these caves can now be visited on treks — it's less than an hour's walk to Tham Kang and Tham Pha Kaew caves, which are best appreciated with the knowledge of a guide. Keep your eyes open around town for war leftovers, as a few guesthouses decorate their grounds with bomb casings.

From Nong Kiaow and Muang Ngoi it is possible to head upriver to Muang Khua and eventually Phongsali, or by land to Udomxai, which is the hub that opens up the north.

Whether you only have a few days to spare and want to get out of Luang Prabang, or want to use these places as a stepping stone to a more in-depth exploration of the north, Nong Kiaow and Muang Ngoi are both great destinations.

One warning though. Over the last couple of years there have been persistent reports of theft from bungalows in Muang Ngoi. We'd suggest you're best not to leave anything of much value in your shack.

Lao Youth Travel: Near the boat landing, http://www.laoyouthtravel.com, (071) 253 340
Saang Tours: (030) 514 0744 ; http://www.saangtours.com

Get orientated with a map of Muang Ngoi, Laos

Muang Ngoi reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

Be kind to the locals!

I must admit that I was not sure what would be waiting in this little village when the boat docked. Once again (as this whole trip has been) I was very blessed to partake in two special ceremonies during my short stay. The first was the end of the Buddhist Lent that for some reason was being celebrated a few days later than it had in Luang Prabang – but still complete with many firecrackers and things that go "boom" at the local wat.

One very special scene was of a young monk with a lighter stuck between his teeth and a grin so broad his face was all teeth! The other ceremony was the funeral of a local boat driver that had fallen suddenly to his death from a heart attack. Now this may not be a celebration in our world, but in Laos it went on for a couple of days (I was witness to three of them). The final morning of alms had the monks chanting after each offering and the locals going through a ritual of dumping out water from a cup onto the ground. I asked around and I am still not sure what it all signified, but I have travelled enough to know when I am seeing something very extraordinary for a western gringo-gal and I felt very honoured to be in this little village for such a time.

In many ways I feel bad how tourists have almost taken over this little village. However, I spent a couple of hours at the school watching a volleyball game, strolled to a local cave and then was held witness to one of the prettiest sunsets on the planet. All this coming on the heels of a stressful afternoon in a hammock swinging my troubles away.

Enjoy – but remember in places like this just how intrusive "we" can be in such a fragile environ.

Safe journey.
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By chergood (dabbler)
Written on 5th November, 2010 after a visit to Muang Ngoi in October, 2010

Also reviewed by chergood: Can Tho, Nong Kiaow,
Great escape

My 11 year old and I made the trip from Luang Prabang to here in a day...one thing to watch out for is that after arriving in Nong Khiaw they will tell you that there are no boats in the afternoon going up river to get you to spend the night in town...Just hang out at one of the restaurants at the boat landing and when you see a boat filling up go down and ask to get on...that's what we did and we had no problem getting to Muang Ngoi. I think we saw about 15 westerners in the village the three days we spent there...It was refreshing in a strange way to ask to be taken up river to go fishing or tubing and the locals just didn't feel like doing it that day...so there is no pressure from the villagers to take advantage of you... that was my impression.

The village definitely is taking advantage of the westerners showing up, but you don't feel ripped off at all. They mind their own business and it's easy enough to wander out of town up some paths into the mountains. It's gorgeous up here and swimming and playing with the kids in the river is alot of fun...Also take advantage of using Bamboo as the local form of "tubing" it works really well.
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By jma351 (dabbler)
Written on 4th May, 2010 after a visit to Muang Ngoi in April, 2010
Boat to Nowhere

The lack of traffic is fantastic - and along with that you've got the ability to escape from the town into the surrounding countryside for some beautiful walks. It made a good escapist base-camp where you can hike light for a day and return to good food and some pleasant and strange folks to get to know and drink beers with. Near the temple was a sandy beach for swimming, and I thought that was just swell.

Be warned about the shot-gun roosters, they seem to breed them louder and in more abundance here.
- Sights & activities
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By caseyprich (dabbler)
Written on 9th March, 2010 after a visit to Muang Ngoi in February, 2008

Also reviewed by caseyprich: Battambang, Can Tho, Champasak, China Beach, Da Nang, Don Dhet, Gili Meno, Hoi An, Hue, Kampot,
Its not that bad

Had some trepidation about Muang Ngoi as had read negative crits along the lines of being ripped off and the place being a mini Vang Vieng. Not assured by first glimpse which suggested serious case of bungalowitis. However in end enjoyed 21/2 day stay a lot. If sight of other tourists gets too much it's easy to walk for 10 minutes and they're all gone. Sunsets are just superb and the absence of vehicle traffic gives the whole place a very relaxed vibe. And there is always the chance to just have a quiet drink with others watching the water flow past if not feeling too energetic
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By robydog (dabbler)
Written on 3rd January, 2010 after a visit to Muang Ngoi in December, 2009

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