Nong Kiaow
Travel Guide
A small town on the banks of the Nam Ou River, Nong Kiaow (also spelt Nong Khiaw) boasts a gorgeous backdrop of imposing limestone mountains, picturesque river views and genuine local colour. Sometimes referred to as Muang Ngoi Mai, it is often confused with Muang Ngoi, a smaller town an hour's boat ride upriver. Both towns are very popular with backpackers, and new riverside bungalows, tourist-friendly restaurants and travel agencies keep being added to accommodate them.
Nong Kiaow is at a crossroads between maintaining its traditional ways and fully embracing tourism. Houses with thatched bamboo walls now have satellite dishes and many of the town's residents are abandoning farming and fishing for the fast money of tourism. Though the town's school and medical clinic remain quite basic, major renovations over the past couple years have led to tourist accommodation and most bungalows now boasting 24-hour electricity and hot water showers.
Some visitors have compared Nong Kioaw to Vang Vieng — yes, you can go tubing here too — but the comparison seems unfair. For now, Nong Kiaow remains one of the most laidback places in Laos, not party central. The are ample opportunities for trekking, caving and rock-climbing, boat trips and cycling, but for many this is just a great place to take a holiday from a holiday.
Nong Kiaow straddles the Nam Ou river with the bus station and boat landing on the west side and a gaggle of guesthouses and restaurants on the east. Near everything is within walking distance of the bridge that spans the river. The bridge doubles as a fabulous vantage point for photos — especially in the early morning and late afternoon. At both times the limestone crags that surround the town really come into their own. This is certainly one of the most scenic spots in northern Laos.
The journey here makes it all worthwhile. Two to four hours by road from Luang Prabang — depending on your mode of transport — or six to seven hours up the spectacular Nam Ou by boat, the routes pass lush green mountains, grazing water buffalo, and a handful of small towns which offer a peek at Lao rural life. You can also head further north by boat, first to Muang Ngoi, then onwards to Muang Khua and eventually Phongsali.
Whether you only have a few days to spare and want to get out of Luang Prabang, or want to use these places as a stepping stone to a more in-depth exploration of the north, Nong Kiaow and Muang Ngoi are both great destinations.
Text and/or map last updated on 23rd June, 2010.
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The above are all within 200km of Nong Kiaow.








Nong Kiaow reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
Charming.
I have a confession. I ended up spending more time in this little place than I originally had planned for. The location is absolutely stunning. Something about the high hills and "that" bridge makes this not only a photogenic spot, but also one can start to feel like a local after a few days around town.
A very diverse lodging field has something for every budget. Lots of things to keep you busy, ranging from bikes for rent, dirt trails to wander out to local villages and an amazing cave that most recently served as a sanctuary for locals while the good old USA dumped bombs all over the area during the Vietnam War. I had hoped to test out the rock climbing, however, the gent who has sent it up had Dengue Fever when I was there.... one can not apply too much Mekong musk!
Walk around town -- meet the locals (especially the kids) who will want to practice their English. This place is not a full on tourist town. It has a small market and serves as a transport hub for goods (including tourists) headed upstream.
It also has one of the best Indian food restaurants anywhere in Deen’s. Any decent breakfast food at Delilah’s.
Do not feel rushed to leave here – and my advice... take the minivan up and the slow boat back to Luang Prabang.
Safe journey.
By chergood (dabbler)
Written on 5th November, 2010 after a visit to Nong Kiaow in October, 2010
Also reviewed by chergood: Can Tho, Muang Ngoi,