Phongsali, with its strong Chinese influence and large number of local ethnic groups, is one of the most fascinating and unique towns in Laos. The picturesque Chinese Quarter features narrow, crowded cobblestone streets lined with small, low-roofed houses made of wood and stone. Simple decorative details are carved or painted in muted colours.

The two main ethnic groups are Phou Noy, whose members wear traditional white leggings, and Chinese Ho, ancestors of the old Yunnan traders, who wear baggy trousers. Chinese is more widely spoken here than Lao and in fact, if it wasn’t for the French, Phongsali would most likely now be part of China’s Yunnan province.

The town winds along the top of mountain ridges in the shadow of Phou Fa, or Sky Mountain. Spectacular views fall from either side: deep valleys and rolling mountains of patchwork. At an altitude of 1,400 metres, Phongsali can get very cool in the winter months. At night too, its height and distance from other towns means that the view of the stars is magnificent.

Wandering the streets during the day, the predominant sounds are of birds and rushing water. As dusk falls, the sounds of playing children mix with farmyard noises, reinforcing the rural feel of the place. Trekking trips allow you to explore the countryside, seeing a special part of the country that is rarely visited. Not many international travellers come to Phongsali and it’s a shame. This is mostly because the journey, either by road from Udomxai or by river from Muang Khua is long and hard – but it’s worth it.