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The halfway point on the Mekong, Pakbeng sits midway between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. As the Mekong was once the only major transport route in the country, Pakbeng developed as an overnight stop for both cargo and passenger ferries. As this route down the Mekong is so spectacular, it remains a popular transport route, and Pakbeng is flourishing.
Set in a particularly scenic spot, where the Nam Beng flows into the Mekong (Pak means mouth, and Beng is the name of the river), the town itself doesn't have a lot to offer but a number of guesthouses and restaurants have sprung up catering to backpackers.
Electricity runs from a hydroelectric dam in the Beng river, so when there is no water in the dry season, electricity may be scarce, but during the wet season it runs 24 hours. Most guest houses have generators running in the evening, these are usually switched off at 22:00. Sleeping without the fan can become an issue in the hot season; however there is little you can do about it.
Accommodation gets very booked up in the high season and often the travellers will have to visit a few guest houses to find an available room. This is especially true when the boats arrive. Touts now meet the boats, usually selling the worst rooms in towns at inflated prices. Our advice is to go it alone. The town is only a short distance from the boat pier. A short walk around town will often bring you better value than the touts at the boats will offer. It is advisable, if you want some comfort, to book ahead.
In the early morning, as most travellers are making their way down to the boats, the street is lined with stalls piled with drinks and freshly-made sandwiches. Restaurants serve breakfast early, with baguettes, Lao coffee and pancakes with condensed milk all specialities.
For a more 'Lao' experience, head up to the early morning market and have a look at all the local produce including dried buffalo skin, frogs on sticks, pigs face and buffalo hooves. Perhaps purchase a few Lao sweets, such as coconut jelly, fried bananas or sweet donuts, or have a delicious filling breakfast of noodle soup, at 5,000 kip a bowl (without meat is bo sai sin).
Here are some discussions off the Travelfish forum, perhaps related to Pakbeng. You can find the full forum here.
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