The lively town of Phonsavan is the capital of Xieng Khuang province and is: famous for two reasons. Firstly, the area was one of the most heavily bombed in Laos, and that's saying something in the most heavily bombed country in the world. Today the region is littered with unexploded ordinance (UXO) and the evidence is everywhere. The resourceful locals use bomb casings and other remnants for every purpose imaginable: as fences and parts of their housing, as tools, vegetable planters, decoration and barbecue fireplaces. Secondly, the province is the site of the mysterious Plain Of Jars. The centre of Xieng Khuang Province is littered with clumps of large stone vessels, believed to be ancient funerary urns. The origin of these enormous jars is unclear, inciting international debate.

The scenery in the province is very different to any you'll see in the rest of the country. Rolling hills are covered in the wet season with green grass and sparse forests of pine trees - a striking contrast to the usual high mountains and dense jungle.

Phonsavan is a fascinating place to visit. It perhaps should not be the first place on any itinerary, but it's great if you have a fair bit of time.