Phonsavan
Travel Guide
The lively town of Phonsavan is the capital of Xieng Khuang province and is famous for two reasons.
Firstly, the area was one of the most heavily bombed in Laos, and that's saying something in the most heavily bombed country in the world. Today the region is littered with unexploded ordinance (UXO) and the evidence is everywhere. The resourceful locals use bomb casings and other remnants for every purpose imaginable: as fences and parts of their housing, as tools, vegetable planters, decoration and barbecue fireplaces.
Secondly, the province is the site of the mysterious Plain Of Jars. The centre of Xieng Khuang Province is littered with clumps of large stone vessels, believed to be ancient funerary urns. The origin of these enormous jars is unclear, inciting international debate.
The scenery in the province is very different to any you'll see in the rest of Laos. Rolling hills are covered in the wet season with green grass and sparse forests of pine trees -- a striking contrast to the usual high mountains and dense jungle.
The Jars aside, Phonsavan itself is a fascinating place to visit. It perhaps should not be the first place on any itinerary, but it's great if you're planning a fair amount of time exploring Laos.
The town is now experiencing a bit of a tourist boom and a considerable amount of infrastructure has been, or is being built. When we last visited, with the first top class hotel being under construction, coupled with the many restaurants, mid-range hotels and tour services, this town looks well on the way to securing its place on the Laos tourist trail.
There is any number of accommodation options in town, with a plethora of budget-range options and a healthy selection of mid-range places to boot. Most of the accommodation is centred around the main street running through town -- take a short walk along the main road and you'll see plenty of options from which to choose.
Orientation
A post office, banks and internet cafes are all available along the main street in Phonsavan. There is an ATM in town at the local BCEL bank close to the old bus station in the centre of town. Changing money is best done at the several banks and changes stalls are also littered along the town's main drag.
There is also a hospital in town, but as for most other places in rural Laos, this is best only used for more minor ailments. More serious injuries and emergencies should definitely be treated in Vientiane (or even better, Thailand).
Related reading
The Phonsavan adventure
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Check Phonsavan hotel rates on Agoda. Best price guarantee!
Text and/or map last updated on 10th August, 2009.
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History Takes a Turn
Phonsavan is worth a visit if you are interested in history. I'm an IGCSE History teacher from the States and I must say that I was really startled by the place. Now, the city itself is not very great, and the road there is long, and the food was so-so ... but that said, everyone who comes does so for one reason -- the plain of jars. What was really worth appreciating was the confluence of the Vietnam War Era bombings with the landscape of the plain; craters around busted jars, caves for shelter from bomb raids, and this coming together of an ancient need to create with the ancient activity of war and destruction.
If your tour is Northern Laos, this is an important point of interest to visit.
By caseyprich (dabbler)
Written on 9th March, 2010 after a visit to Phonsavan in February, 2008
Also reviewed by caseyprich: Can Tho, Champasak, China Beach, Da Nang, Don Dhet, Hoi An, Hue, Ko Chang, Ko Maak, Ko Wai,