On the western bank of the slow-flowing Mekong River, some 40km south of Pakse, sits the quaint riverside town of Champasak. A modest place, Champasak is popular with backpackers who are either visiting Wat Phu or who have been attracted by the generally very relaxed pace of life. Without the hustle and bustle of Pakse and certainly without the crowds of Don Dhet and Don Khon, Champasak retains the best of both worlds, all well-wrapped-up in a blanket of traditional Lao hospitality.

The Khmer-period ruins of Wat Phu, some eight kilometres to the southwest of "town", were granted their UNESCO World Heritage status in 2001, but aside from a large carpark, a semi-modern looking administrative centre and a museum, the ruins are largely as they've been for centuries.

Well worn and heavily weathered, this is the most important Khmer site in Laos. An attractive but rather small affair, what Wat Phu lacks in size and grandeur it more than makes up for with charm and atmosphere. Overshadowed by Phu Pasak and littered with frangipani, Wat Phu's somewhat rambling almost teetering appearance belay it's importance. The site predates many of the finds in Angkor and Thailand and if you're lucky enough to have an uncrowded early morning or late afternoon to yourself the whole place has a bit of a lost city feel to it.

The ruins draw a steady crowd of day-trippers from Pakse and further afield -- you can even do a day trip from Ubon Ratchathani in Thailand if you'd like -- but, with its handful of colonial mansions, typical Chinese shopfronts and pretty wooden houses try to allow for at least an overnight stay if time allows.

Even in high season, this is a sleepy place. Along the solitary main road water buffaloes and wandering geese are more common sights than cars and buses, and the riverfront, with its smattering of small restaurants and hammock-strewn cafes creates an ideal getaway from the midday heat.

Although some skip here, opting to head straight from Pakse to Si Phan Don, for those with a spare day or two, this is a great little hideaway in its own right, with a charming atmosphere that leads many a visitor to linger far longer than they planned.

Orientation
When you're in Champasak Town facing the Mekong river, north is to your left. There's a 'roundabout' at the centre of town with a lotus-flower statue at the centre -- its purpose is decorative rather than functional, since there is only one road passing through the roundabout!

Money
There's a branch of the Lao Development Bank in a new location off a side road just south of the traffic circle. They'll cash travellers cheques for US dollars for $US 2 per note, but listen to this -- they'll cash TC's for Lao kip with no commission at attractive rates!

Internet
There's only one internet place in town, Internet Nam Ohy, (T: (031) 920 025) 150m south of the Vong Paseud Guest House. It has two very nice terminals and charges 300 kip per minute. They also serve drinks -- they squeeze out a mean glass of sugar cane juice.

Emergency
Obviously, if anything drastic happens to you while you're in Champasak, you'll want to get yourself to Pakse if at all possible. There is a small hospital off a side road 100m south of the Vong Pasued Guest House. The doctor there, Mr. Ponsai, speaks a little English and has office hours from 08:00 to 16:00 daily, or you can give him a call on his cell: (020) 562 5355.

Post
The post office is just north of the Visitors' Centre on the riverside of the main road. Open 08:00 to 15:30 daily.

Travel Information
There's a Visitor Information Centre just north of the traffic circle on the riverside -- you can check in here to arrange tours and boat trips, hours 08:00 to 12:00 and 13:30 to 16:30 Mon through Fri. But the staff at the Anouxsa Guesthouse are also a good bet.