Don Khon

Far larger than Don Dhet, Don Khon is skipped by many budget travellers because most of the accommodation is mid-range. However although there aren't 40-odd places to choose from, there are budget options here and staying on Don Khon is far more of a Lao experience than Don Dhet.

There is a better range of eateries than on Don Dhet and the options for cycling and walking are considerably more extensive. The main disadvantage (aside from the generally higher cost of accommodation) is that in early-to-mid afternoon the island is swarmed by day trippers from Pakse and Thailand who descend on the island in droves -- fortunately they are only there for an hour or so.

The island hosts quite a few reminders left behind by the French -- several old colonial buildings, including the school, the French port and the hospital (now part of a resort) and the French embankment -- a series of concrete barriers built on the eastern side of the island.

You'll also find what's left of the light-gauge train track that used to traverse the island, now a long clear path of heavy gravel. There's a small engine and a length of the old train track on display to the west of the French bridge.

But Don Khon had a good deal to offer before the French ever showed up which is still on display -- the powerful Li Phi waterfalls on the western side of the island, the Irrawady dolphins (if you're lucky) off the southern coast, and scenes of pleasant village life that you can cycle or wander through at your leisure.

The accommodation on Don Khon is restricted to a comparatively small portion of the island and the rest is essentially unadulterated Laos.

Orientation
All the guesthouses are clustered at the northern coast of Don Khon, facing Don Dhet -- there's no where to stay further east of Salaphae, and nothing on the western side of the French Bridge.

There are no services on the island such as post, police, or hospital -- the nearest facilities are on Don Khong. Internet is available at Pan's Restaurant and at Auberge Sala Done Khone for 1,000 kip per minute.

If you cross the French Bridge from Don Dhet you'll have to pay 9,000 kip for a ticket that's good for the whole day. The ticket will also get you into the Liphee Waterfalls without having to pay again. If you arrive by boat, you shouldn't have to buy a ticket.