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Pakse

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The provincial capital of Pakse is one of the most Thai-like towns in all of Laos, and one that, up until recently, most travellers and backpackers tended to use as a transit point and little else. The tourism infrastructure is less developed than the more popular north, making it a bit harder to explore, but Champasak Province has much to offer -- and Pakse is an ideal base to explore much of it from.

In our opinion this was a mistake -- admittedly, it doesn't measure up to the low-key splendour of Luang Prabang, but nevertheless it has a definite charm, some beautiful wats, and two gorgeous rivers, great for enjoying some eats and drinks by the water side and watching the sun smoulder into the horizon.

But Pakse seems to be making a transition from transit point to staging area -- the Lao Government has put a lot of careful work into cultivating new, ecologically friendly and well-regulated tourist destinations that combine the adventure of exploring the unknown with the convenience of regular and reliable services. You can easily spend a week or so just making day trips and overnights from Pakse, and winding up right back in town to plan the next stage of your journey.

We see Pakse shaking off the reputation from paper guidebooks -- it's a comfortable spot for hanging out, recharging your batteries, and picking up information, with an ever-improving guesthouse scene, some great food, and excellent local hospitality.

Best known for its spectacular Khmer ruins at Wat Phu and the stunning cluster of islands near the Cambodian border known as Si Phan Don (4,000 islands). Here you'll also find elephant trekking in Ban Khiet Ngong, stunning waterfalls rimming the Bolaven Plateau, and you'll get a glimpse into authentic, traditional Laotian life on the islands of Don Kho near Pakse and Don Deng near Champasak Town, making a tour of the region well worth the extra effort.

Travellers should be prepared to spend longer in this province than expected. Besides the excellent hospitality of the locals, there's a growing list of worthwhile things to do. Another reason is the rather slow pace of public transportation. Though Champasak has generally good roads, as in much of Laos, the transport that runs along them does so at its own creaky pace, loaded to the roof with more goods and baggage than people, making frequent stops along routes that offer a small selection of daily departures.


 
















Partly as a response to the slow buses, motorbikes have become a popular alternative, and are easily rented in the provincial capital of Pakse long-term. For those so inclined, this is recommended, as it will allow you to better explore the province without spending half your time sorting out departures, waiting in terminals, and languishing on a long, slow bus ride. Increasingly, group package tours offer to take care of some of these hassles for you, but nothing can beat stopping off at a road-side food stall in the middle of nowhere, or coursing down back roads along streams and canals through fields of rice against a scenic backdrop of mountains.

Many backpackers and travellers to Champasak province elect to head straight down to Si Phan Don (4,000 islands) to while away a few days in a hammock, but for those with more time on their hands, Champasak and Pakse are well worth more than a cursory glance.

Visa
Cambodia just got a lot easier to visit: one-month visas on arrival are now available at the Veun Kham - Dom Kralor border for US$20 -- an 'overtime' fee of US$1.50 will be levied on weekends, holidays, and after 16:30 Be aware though that the new Laotian visa on arrival is not available going the other way -- you'll have to get a Laotian visa at an embassy in Cambodia or elsewhere before you hit the border. Of course, Thailand still offers a free 30-day visa on arrival, but according to the new rules, if you're planning to spend more than 90 days in Thailand during a six month period, you'll have to apply at an embassy for a 3-month visa. Once you're stamped into Laos, you can cross back and forth to the Chong Mek side in Thailand to go shopping and do your banking without having to check in and out of the country. If you leave Chong Mek your passport will be checked, but as long as you stay in town and return the same day, there's no problem.

For more information on the crossing to Cambodia, please see our story: How do I cross the Cambodia to Laos border?

Text and/or map last updated on 10th August, 2009.

More information


Maps
  Pakse

Further reading
 » Is Lao Airlines safe to fly?
 » Exploring Laos' Bolaven Plateau
 » Southern Laos by scooter
 » How do I cross the Cambodia to Laos border?

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Viking Temple Schroedinger's Cats Golden Crest of Frangipani Elephant Lantern Purple Water Lilly Water Lilly Baby Coconut Mekong Sunset Sunset Fishing
Laotian City Scene Who needs Carlsberg if he has Beerlao? Fruits at the Night Market Red! Blue and red Reflections Sunset over Lao-Nippon Bridge Elephant Knobs The Sky over Pakse The Hotel of 1,000,000 Elephants Arrived...finally!!

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Fresh off our Asia travel forum

Here are some discussions off the Travelfish forum, perhaps related to Pakse. You can find the full forum here.

Topic Replies  Views 
Pakse Airport?? 
In Laos: by jimmyjaxx, last reply by wanderingcat
4 250
Flight from Siem Reap to Pakse (Laos) 
In Cambodia: by vuh, last reply by fondo
16 8484
Does a flight still exist between Pakse and Siem Reap? 
In Laos: by Dkirzner, last reply by Captain_Bob
1 330
From Ubon Ratchathani to Pakse 
In Laos: by phancock, last reply by phancock
9 713
Luang Prabang > Pakse 
In Laos: by emma066, last reply by Tilapia
8 714
Pakse to Siem Reap 
In Laos: by Missis, last reply by the_tundraman
7 1471
Motorbiking Bolaven Plateau from Pakse 
In Laos: by Ambushed, last reply by somsai
1 452
ATV/Jeep Rental Pakse 
In Laos: by bass_ke, last reply by robmacca
5 806
Motorcycle rental in Pakse 
In Laos: by scomoore1, last reply by bitpiece
26 4442
Comments to my route: Luang Prabang, Pakse and Ko Maak 
In Laos: by nadineurban, last reply by somtam2000
1 743
Will Pakse airport close again in 2010? 
In Laos: by Tripledutch, last reply by somtam2000
1 748
Pakse airpot has re-opened 
In Laos: by lennybruce, last reply by StillWithUs
17 1173
Sleeper bus - Vientiane to Pakse 
In Laos: by dclayw, last reply by wanderingcat
29 3508
Pakse airport??? confused 
In Laos: by cassrose
0 470
Pakse Airport 
In Laos: by mkelly139, last reply by Dylan
5 1139

Pakse reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

Welcome to the Boomtown
By exacto (dabbler - 13 reviews)
Written on 19th February, 2010 after a visit to Pakse in January, 2010

My first impression of Pakse was of a clean, orderly, cheerful town, and that positive impression held up and more during two visits in January 2010. As a travel destination, Pakse has a nice selection of good value accommodation and a really great variety of restaurants, including two Indian restaurants and at least one very popular pizza place. Pakse is an excellent base for exploring the Bolevans Plateau, a great stopover on the way to or from the 4,000 Islands and Cambodia, a place for day trips to Wat Phu, and with its full range of tourist services(internet, laundry, ATM, scooter rental, etc.) the perfect place to relax and recharge for a few days, which is what most folks I met seemed to be doing.

Most of the independent traveller scene is right along the main road through town or within a few short blocks walk. The roads are wide, relatively flat, and don't have much traffic, making Pakse a good place for bike or scooter riding. There is quite a bit of new construction, but that is along the river near the bridge across the Mekong. The variety of food and activities and laid-back atmosphere reminded me of the best parts of Chiang Mai 20 years ago. Be sure to enjoy a sunset stroll along the river while you are there, and for a real treat, try a one-hour foot massage (35,000 kip) at Dog Champa Massage, right across from the Pakse Hotel.

It is often possible to catch a boat downriver to Champasak from Pakse for about 70,000 kip per person. The 2-hour ride passes villages with their fishing boats and kids playing in the water. Steep, forested cliffs line the west bank of the river along much of the route. Bring ear plugs for the engine noise.

Pakse's international bus station is a few km south of town and is actually pretty nice. From here you can catch a bus to Champasak, the 4,000 islands, and destinations in Cambodia like Siem Reap, Strung Treng, and Phnom Penh. This is also where you catch the International Bus back to Ubon, Thailand. That bus runs twice per day at 0830 and 1530. The cost is 200 baht or 55,000 kip per person, and takes 3 hours to get to Ubon, including time at the border.
  Sights & activities
  History & culture
  Scenery & environment
  Eat & drink
  Traveller's scene
  Romance
  Value for money
  I'll be back (or not)
Also reviewed by exacto: Champasak, Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet, Ko Maak, Lopburi, Mukdahan, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai, Phitsanulok, Savannakhet,
Pakse...
By chaos23 (dabbler - 6 reviews)
Written on 13th June, 2009 after a visit to Pakse in November, 2008

Pakse is a nice little city and in many ways the last resort of civilisation in southern Laos -- or so it seems -- it is home to the last ATM, the last airport, and is close to Thailand, which at least gives the market more to sell.

It has a mixture of French, Chinese, Vientnamese and Khmer culture, architecture and styles. Take a trip to the Bolaven Plateau and visit coffee plantations or jump in a waterfall. Enjoy the sunset at the Mekong and don't forget to visit the wats!
  Sights & activities
  History & culture
  Scenery & environment
  Eat & drink
  Traveller's scene
  Romance
  Value for money
  I'll be back (or not)
Also reviewed by chaos23: Champasak, Don Dhet, Ko Tao, Luang Prabang, Vientiane,

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