Savannakhet
Travel Guide
The sleepy southern Lao province of Savannakhet stretches from Thailand to the west to Vietnam to the east. The name means, roughly, 'Golden Land' and was historically touted as the place to find the 'best of the best' in Laos.
Being home to large swathes of forest and three NBCAs, it's a budding centre of Lao ecotourism, but most travellers treat the province and its eponymous provincial capital as little more than a thoroughfare en route to elsewhere. But for those with time on their hands, a number of activities and attractions are nestled here, and the capital is another charming, crumbling town where it's easy to lose a day or two just hanging around.
The same-named provincial capital, Savannakhet is a classic leftover from the French colonial period -- petanque included. Historically this provincial capital was a French trading outpost, and wandering around town you'll still find the occasional trader's house -- both French and Chinese merchants made the town their home.
When the road to Lao Bao was sealed and the border with Vietnam opened, this became the gateway for overland travellers, kicking off a transformation into a tourist town that's still gradually evolving. The newest addition to this east-west 'trade corridor' is the Mekong Bridge, the second of the Lao-Thai 'Friendship' bridges, 4km north of the town centre, which now connects Savannakhet with Mukdahan.
But the bridge, so far, seems to be more symbolic than functional, with commercial and private traffic greatly restricted -- the only way for travellers to get across is to book a tour bus, or walk across if your legs are up to it -- on our visit we saw precious few lorries loaded with the fruits of trade traversing the span.
If you'd like to visit one of the NBCAs, be sure to drop in to the tourism office in Savannakhet and set aside a day or two to rustle up enough numbers -- most of the trips require at least four people.
Much of the province as seen from Route 13 is dry scrubland, with some areas turned into paddy. When compared to mountainous Khammuan to the north and lush Champassak to the south, Savannakhet can seem a bit bleak, but the riverside scenery, particularly in Savannakhet town, is very pretty.
Text and/or map last updated on 10th August, 2009.
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Savannakhet reviews
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A good way to break up a long bus ride (if you like dogs)
Savannakhet has more going for it than you'd think - or at least it is trying to. Currently there is no boardwalk along the river, though the food stalls there are a good place to chat with tuk-tuk drivers, the historical district is largely empty of cafes, bars, and eateries, with some roads still packed-red earth, and the street with everything happening (Ratsavong Seuk Rd) is a pretty charmless main street. There you'll find other travellers at places like iLounge Cafe (free WiFi), the Japanese restaurant just down the street, and a nice cup of coffee at Cafe Chez Boune. The few ex-pats who are living here are more than happy to while-away some time chatting.
In the right light, the decaying historical area is picturesque, and there are one to four day treks available in the area, though I wasn't enticed by any of them. This is a good spot to break up the long ride between Pakse and Vientiane - as the place is quiet and relaxed.
In the evening, after 11, the town is nearly shut down and all the dogs come out and guard their territory - seriously they are on guard, the least friendly dogs I've found in Southeast Asia. If you've got a problem with dogs, don't come here. I myself like dogs but found myself walking down the middle of the street as I returned to my guest house in the evening.
By caseyprich (dabbler)
Written on 19th February, 2011 after a visit to Savannakhet in February, 2011
Also reviewed by caseyprich: Can Tho, Champasak, Don Dhet, Ko Chang, Ko Maak, Ko Wai, Luang Prabang, Muang Ngoi, Pakse, Phonsavan,
I'm only here for the beer...
It was easy getting to Savannakhet from Mukdahan via the international bus, which runs nearly every hour on the half hour during daylight hours for 45 baht. The immigration process on the Lao side wasn't all that efficient, but I managed to slip through anyway and the bus did wait for me, which was a bonus. If you happen to arrive outside of normal business hours or on weekends, the overtime fees for the immigration officials are 5 baht on the Thai side and 40 baht on the Lao side.
Once in town however, I didn't find a lot of substance to Savannakhet, and I'd have to say it was the least charming city I've visited in Laos. That isn't to say it is completely charmless however. It is still possible to enjoy a Beer Lao or a coconut at a stand along the river front, and there are a few charming cafes near the square or elsewhere and plenty of nice-looking restaurant night spots. There is at least one ATM and internet cafes are plentiful. But the town cannot hold a candle to Pakse or Vientiane, and given the chance I'd just continue on to those other places rather than overnight here again.
By exacto (dabbler)
Written on 24th January, 2010 after a visit to Savannakhet in January,
Also reviewed by exacto: Champasak, Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet, Ko Maak, Lopburi, Mukdahan, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai, Pakse, Phitsanulok,
Savanakhet is slow
I have been to Savannakhet a number of times for visa runs, since I live right across the border in Mukdahan.
Savanakhet has some good restaraunts. The Dao Cafe in the center of town (look for the Catholic Church, it's in the same square) offers some great non-Asian food and an eclectic selection of beers. You will, however, pay top dollar (or kip) for it. It's not a cheap place to eat, but the food is good, and the service is excellent.
There is also a nice riverside restaraunt just down the steet from the Thai consulate. Excellent Laos and Thai food and also very good service as well as lovely ambience. The restaruant is floating in the Mekong and mored to the rivers edge.
There is an excellent hotel (Unfortunately I forgot the name and gave the card I used to have to another traveller) right on the main road across from the Rose Garden (it's a beer garden). Old French architecture, high ceilings, wood floors, clean... 180B a night. I love the place. Name starts with an "X".
The nightlife is limited, but there is some. A couple of "discos" featuring your usual Lao music and working girls, a smattering of small bars and a few Karaoke places. Word of warning, Laos working girls put you at risk, as Laos has a law that prohibits lao citizens from having sex with non-Laos.
I find the place slow, a bit dirty and boring. But some people do like it, and there are plenty of tourists moving through.
By MADMAC (dabbler)
Written on 10th June, 2009 after a visit to Savannakhet in November, 2008
Also reviewed by MADMAC: Mukdahan, Nakhon Phanom, That Phanom, Udon Thani, Yasothon,