The small and relaxed Lao capital of Vientiane sits on the northern bank of the Mekong River facing across to the even sleepier Thai town of Sri Chiang Mai. For many visitors, Vientiane is the first taste of Lao food, culture and hospitality and on all counts it does not disappoint.

Actually pronounced Wiang Jan and translated as City of Sandalwood, the modern name of Vientiane comes courtesy of a bastardised French transliteration. Wiang actually means "fort" (City of Sandalwood sounds better than Fort of Sandalwood) but by all accounts it mustn't have been much of a fort, as the original city was over-run on a number of occasions by the Burmese and Chinese and was absolutely flattened by the Siamese (Thais) in 1828, after which the city was abandoned back to the jungle.

This is one of the reasons why many of the wats in the city are of a relatively young age, and if the road layout strikes you as a pretty inspired affair, you can thank the French for it -- they laid the whole place when they oversaw the rebuilding of the city through the turn of the 19th to 20th century.

Like many of the French colonial cities, Vientiane is characterised by broad, often tree-lined boulevards, run-down and creaking colonial mansions, rustic Wats surrounded by coconut palms and a generally sedentary pace of life.

Indeed it's only since the early 1990's that the city has really started to develop. While it's a shame that the first waves of (largely Thai) investors that hit the Lao shores brought with them the concrete egg-carton style architecture that litters much of Thailand, at least the riverfront, with it's sleepy wats and broken pavements didn't bear the brunt of it.

Nevertheless, slowly, the Mekong riverfront is developing from what was once just a simple grass bank into a promenade of sorts -- the embankment between the hospitals and the Lane Xang Hotel now hosts a lovely garden and walkway. Elsewhere, the area is largely unspoilt and offers some stunning scenery. The sunsets here are simply sublime.

For a capital city, Vientiane isn't exactly overloaded with museums and sights, but that's part of the attraction. Slow down to Lao speed -- hire a bicycle; see one or two things a day; spend a lot of time snacking and quenching your thirst by the river. -- you'll grow to appreciate the attraction of the place.

While you'd expect the flow of the Mekong and the comfort of the embankment to attract guesthouses and hotels by the truckload, as with much in Laos, things are not always as you'd expect. The road along the riverfront, Fa Ngum, has a handful of places to stay, and there are plenty of other choices on the roads leading off it but none that really take advantage of the views.

The good news is that Vientiane is probably one of the smallest capital cities in the world, so getting around is quick and easy -- no matter where you stay, you're never too far away from anywhere -- including the riverfront. The further out of the centre you stay, the quieter it gets, but this is where you can find some of the best guesthouses.

Vientiane also boasts a great selection of Lao and western restaurants and cafes and an eclectic mix of sights and attractions which can all be combined well for a comfortable two to three day stay.

Whatever you do, don't miss a sunset here.

Orientation
Banking
The main concentration of banks is on Lane Xang Avenue leading up from the Mekong River. Most will change cash and traveller's cheques. ATMs that display the Visa and MasterCard signs are usually reserved for Lao-issued cards. The BCEL does have an international ATM on Pangkham Road where you can use your Visa or MasterCard credit cards for cash advances.

Just as handy and usually a lot quicker are the exchange booths around town. The BCEL operate one on the corner of Pangkham and Fa Ngum roads and there's another on Hengboun Road next to the Lao Hotel. The BCEL is open on Saturday and Sunday from 08:30 to 15:30.

GPO
The central post office is opposite the south side of the day market on Khou Viang Road. Office hours are Monday to Friday 08:00 to 17:00, Saturday 08:00 to 16:00 and Sunday 08:00 to 12:00.

Immigration office
Visa on arrival is issued for 30 days for most nationalities at the Friendship Bridge crossing and at Wattay International Airport. Tourist visas can also be organised beforehand through Lao diplomatic offices. Should you wish to extend a tourist visa you can do so at the immigration office in Vientiane on Hatsady Rd, just off Lane Xang Avenue, for US$2 per day. Leaving Laos with an expired visa will cost you $10 a day and you can only extend visas here. If you want to extend a visa that you have already overstayed on, you are still required to pay the $10 per day fine to cover the days you have already overstayed. Office hours are Mon-Fri 08:00-12:00 and 13:00-16:00. T: (021) 212 520.

Emergency
For minor ailments there are lots of pharmacies, open every day, and well stocked with medicine, though be sure to check the expiry date. For serious problems, consider the Mahosot Hospital - T: (021) 214 023-4 or the International Clinic - T: (021) 214 022. Both are by Mahosot Rd and are open 24 hours. If you're concerned about a particularly serious condition or your insurance doesn't cover health care in Laos, head to either AEK Hospital (http://www.aekudon.com) in Udon Thani - T: (+66 42) 342 555, F:(+66 42) 341 033 -- or Bangkok.

Police
In an emergency the police can be contacted on 191. There is also a tourist police office next to the Tourist Information Centre on Lane Xang Avenue, T: (021) 251 128.

Books
Vientiane is getting a lot better than it was but choices of titles are still fairly limited in most of the bookshops here. Kosila (open Mon - Sat 09:00 - 19:00) have two shops, one at the bottom of Nokeo Koummane and another just before the That Dam stupa. Both have a reasonable collection of second hand titles but nothing too inspired. Monument Books on Nokeo Koummane (next to the Vayakorn Guesthouse) has a good selection of Lao titles covering culture, history and cooking (all in English). They are also a good source for maps of Laos and neighbouring countries. A lot of magazines are also available but not too many English novels. Vientiane Book Centre on Pangkham Road (just up from the BCEL exchange booth) also has a reasonable collection of second hand titles in English as well as cards and postcards. Some guesthouses also offer book loans (probably left behind by guests) and there's a reasonable exchange service at the Full Moon Cafe on Francois Nginn Road.

Monument Books: Nokeo Koummane, Vientiane. T: (021) 243 708. Open: Mon-Fri 09:00-20:00, Sat & Sun 09:00-18:00.
Vientiane Book Centre: 54/1 Pangkham Rd, Vientiane. T: (021) 212 031. Open: Mon-Fri 08:30-17:30, Sat 09:00-16:00, closed Sun.

Internet and telecommunications
Internet cafes are all over the city and some of the guesthouses are also getting in on the act, offering one or two terminals in their reception areas. Speed and reliability are usually excellent and prices are between 100 and 200 kip per minute. If you're travelling with a laptop, WiFi services are available at the Joma cafa on Setthatilath Rd for 25,000 kip/hour.

Tourist information
Aside from Travelfish, the best way to get the most out of Vientiane is to pick up a good map. The Lao National Tourism Administration seem to be getting their act together at last and now have a fairly reasonable display in their offices on Lane Xang Avenue after the day market. They can provide a free guide to Laos (in English and French), which isn't as bad as you might expect, (and very amusing in places) and actually contains some reasonable maps, some excellent background information on Laos, its culture, the ethnic minorities and various festivals, as well as lists of accommodation, restaurants, bars, embassies and things to see in Vientiane. They will also sell you a 3D map, but it's a bit heavy on the advertising and there are better choices in the bookshops.

There is a daily English-language newspaper, the Vientiane Times, which can be really useful for finding out about what's on locally as well as a weekly French publication, Le Renovateur. These are sold in almost every cafe and hotel as well as some of the better guesthouses. The Vientiane Times also publishes the timetables for the government buses from Vientiane to other destinations in Laos.

Keep an eye out too for the noticeboards that can be found in many guesthouses and especially in some of the cafes. Everything from job vacancies to language courses are posted.

Lao National Tourism Information Centre: Lane Xang Avenue, Vientiane. T: (021) 250 681, F: (021) 212 769. Open daily 08:30 to 16:30. http://www.tourismlaos.gov.la

When to go
Set at the centre of the country, Vientiane gets a very predictable wet and dry monsoon climate. The dry season commences between late October and early November and runs through till the rains break the heat some time in May. Both April and May can be excrutiatingly hot, with the rain that finally breaks the stifling heat a welcome relief.

In the wet season, August and September see the most rain, but it is rarely all-day torrential affairs, instead characterised by short, but heavy downpours spread across the day.

The best time to visit Vientiane is between November and February. This is after the end of the wet season, but before things begin to really heat up in March.

Vientiane is at its busiest in December and January, but outside of Pimai Lao (Lao New Year -- see festivals below), you should always be able to find a room.

Festivals
Pimai Lao (Lao New Year)
This three-day festival (in some places it can run for five) celebrates Lao New Year and is characterised by water and powder throwing, baci ceremonies and Lao hospitality at its best. A fun festival, particularly in Luang Prabang, but rooms fill up fast -- a reservation is a very good idea. Celebrated across the country April 15-17.

Rocket Festival
While not a scratch on the mayhen you'll see in Thailand, this rain-making festival in May or June (the date varies each year) is known for its large non-NASA-certified home-made rockets which are shot skywards. A must for any budding rocket engineer.

Ok Phansa
Held on the full moon at the end of Buddhist Lent (October). Look for candle-lit processions, boat races and much revelry. Celebrated across the country.

That Luang Festival
While this is celebrated across Laos, the epicentre is That Luang in Vientiane. People in their thousands pay homage at wats across Laos, make merit and give alms. Boat races, fireworks and general revelry continue the fun in this week-long festival.