Vientiane

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The Lao capital of Vientiane sits on the northern bank of the Mekong River facing across to the even sleepier Thai town of Sri Chiang Mai. For many visitors, Vientiane provides the first taste of Lao food, culture and hospitality, and it does not disappoint on any count.

Actually pronounced Wiang Jan and translated as City of Sandalwood, the modern name of Vientiane comes courtesy of a bastardised French transliteration. Wiang actually means "fort" (City of Sandalwood sounds better than Fort... ) but by all accounts it mustn't have been much of a stronghold, as the original city was overrun on a number of occasions by the Burmese and Chinese, and absolutely flattened by the Siamese (Thais) in 1828, after which the city was abandoned and left to the jungle.

This is one reason why many of the wats in the city are of a relatively young age, and if the road layout strikes you as an inspired affair, thank the French for it -- they laid the whole place out when they oversaw the rebuilding of the city from the turn of the 19th to 20th centuries.

Like many French colonial cities, Vientiane is characterised by broad, often leafy boulevards and rundown, creaking colonial mansions. Dotted with rustic wats surrounded by coconut palms and a generally sedentary pace of life as well and the allure of the place can be well understood.

Indeed it's only since the early 1990s that the city has really started to develop. While it's a shame that the first waves of (largely Thai) investors that hit landlocked Laos brought with them the concrete egg-carton style architecture that litters so much of Thailand, at least the riverfront, with its sleepy wats and broken pavements, didn't bear the brunt of it.

 

Nevertheless, slowly, the Mekong riverfront is transforming from what was once just a simple grass bank into a promenade of sorts -- the embankment between the hospitals and the Lane Xang Hotel now hosts a lovely garden and walkway. Elsewhere, the area is largely unspoilt and offers some stunning scenery. The sunsets here are simply sublime.

For a capital, Vientiane isn't exactly overloaded with museums and sights, but in a way that's part of the attraction. Slow down to Lao speed -- hire a bicycle; see one or two things a day; spend a lot of time snacking and quenching your thirst by the river. You'll grow to appreciate the attraction of the place.

While you'd expect the flow of the Mekong to attract guesthouses and hotels by the truckload, the road along here, Fa Ngum, has just a handful of places to stay. Plenty of other choices line the roads leading off it but few really take advantage of the views.

The good news is that Vientiane is probably one of the smallest capital cities in the world, so getting around is quick and easy. No matter where you stay, you're never too far away from anywhere, including the riverfront. The further out of the centre you stay, the quieter it gets, but this is where you can find some of the best guesthouses.

Vientiane also boasts a great selection of Lao and Western restaurants and cafes, and an eclectic mix of sights and attractions which can be combined well for a comfortable two- to three-day stay. Whatever you do, don't miss a riverside sunset here.

Text and/or map last updated on 10th August, 2009.

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Further reading
 » Luang Prabang escape
 » Muang Ngoi Escape
 » The Gibbon Experience
 » The Phonsavan adventure
 » Is Lao Airlines safe to fly?
 » Malaria in Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam
 » Lonely Planet Laos 6 -- worth every kip

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Ban Pako Eco Lodge
Outside of Vientiane
From: US$6.00 with WHL


Rivertime Resort & Ecolodge
Outskirts
From: US$8.00 with WHL


Rivertime Resort and Ecolodge
Thadokkham Village
From: US$8.00 with HostelWorld


Orchid Guesthouse
Riverside
From: US$12.00 with WHL


Samxay Hotel
Town Centre
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Davein Hotel
Outskirts
From: US$14.00 with WHL


Saysouly Guesthouse

From: US$15.00 with WHL


Thavikhoun Pouthasinh Hotel
Outskirts
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Villa Sisavad Guesthouse
Town Centre
From: US$16.00 with WHL


Cheuang Van Na Vong Hotel
Town Centre
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B&P Hotel
Town Centre
From: US$20.00 with WHL


Vayakorn Guesthouse
Town Centre
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Villa That Luang Guesthouse

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Lakeo Belle Villa

From: US$20.00 with WHL


Lao Heritage Hotel
Town Centre
From: US$20.00 with WHL

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Fresh off our Asia travel forum

Here are some discussions off the Travelfish forum, perhaps related to Vientiane. You can find the full forum here.

Topic	Replies	Views
Can one purchase Vietnam Air tickets from Vientiane to LP on the ground?  In Laos: by glomer, last reply by Captain_Bob	10	215
Huay Xai to Luang Prabang (or Vientiane) May 2010  In Laos: by jessia, last reply by Captain_Bob	2	122
From Laos (either Vientiane or LuangPrabang) to Hanoi by car??  In Laos: by Asia2010, last reply by MADMAC	15	404
Trip Report: Siem Reap to Vientiane  In Visas and border crossings: by cheeco, last reply by ljm52	1	683
Minsk for sale in Vientiane - Laos  In Motorbiking in Asia: by samenlieve	0	82
Nice Place to visit between Sam Neua and Vientiane  In Laos: by wombatfuz, last reply by wanderingcat	10	278
Rivertime Ecolodge - Only 30 km from Vientiane  In Laos additions: by Barns	0	91
Overland Luang Prabang to Vientiane.  In Laos: by mangie, last reply by christay2009	27	6841
Rufus, you still in Vientiane?  In Laos: by MADMAC, last reply by Rufus	1	309
Hanoi - Vientiane route  In Laos additions: by adneilme, last reply by wanderingcat	13	9299
The bus from hell Vientiane to Hanoi- has anyone done it and is it safe for solo women?  In Laos: by suswati37, last reply by duriantime	9	1404
Luang Prabang to Vientiane night bus?  In Laos: by katsnow, last reply by somsai	1	666
From Vientiane to Lak Xao to Vinh to Hanoi  In Laos: by dispoiler	0	326
Udon Thani Airport to Vientiane  In Visas and border crossings: by brianennion, last reply by Tilapia	1	597
Need advise from Hanoi to Vientiane  In Vietnam: by theCATALYST	0	499

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