Bugis once had a reputation for sleaze, made famous in Paul Theroux's book Saint Jack (and the film). Though the area has been cleaned up, it remains a bustling cultural and commercial area on the outskirts of the city just ten minutes from Orchard Road and walking distance from City Hall. Here you will find the modern National Library, the majestic Sultan Mosque, and shopping so diverse it includes street fashion, markets, dried products, textiles and electronics.

The adjacent neighbourhood of Arab Street had once been a Muslim district with Arab traders and local Malays; in its present incarnation, contemporary Muslim culture still looms around every five foot way, though insiders will tell you this is where the city's alt kids come to be seen. Persian rugs and rattan cane furniture dealers are neighbours with shops dealing in vintage clothing and antiques or belly dance costumes, yet modern boutiques and ice cream parlours are just down the road.

Sit on a rug in one of the many Arab, Yemeni, Egyptian and Turkish restaurants with a shisha in hand, or have a beer in some of the bars brimming with character. This is one of Singapore's most intriguing yet underrated neighbourhoods.


Orientation
Bugis MRT station and the adjoining Bugis Junction mall are the landmarks of the area -- the mall comprises a sprawling collection of restored shophouses, and is a streetwear haven with a sprinkling of midrange shopping. Across from Bugis Junction, the hundreds of stalls at Bugis Street featuring local food, street fashion and accessories, provides an authentic shopping experience in the ‘heartlands'.

Walking north along Victoria Street or North Bridge Road, the dense and tall buildings of the city give way to a series of two storey shophouses, the vicinity in and around Arab Street. (A short walking distance from Bugis station and mall: head towards the Raffles Hospital and Golden Landmark Hotel). The quaint neighbourhood centres around the Sultan Mosque, where Bussorah Street, Arab Street, Haji Lane, Bali Lane, Kandahar Street, and Pahang Street run parallel to each other, all of them connected by Baghdad Street; each has its own charm, so be sure to explore.

Before hitting Arab Street, heading northwest at the junction of Victoria Street and Rochor Road leads one to the renowned mecca for computers, cameras and electronics, Sim Lim Square. Six floors of gadgets from the latest iPods to Chinese knockoff portable media players, DIY parts, second hand deals and more. Word of caution: look around for the best prices before committing to a deal, certain shops have a reputation for quoting tourist prices which are far higher than street prices.

Southwards along Victoria Street at the junction with Middle Road, the neighbourhood of Bencoolen Street and its surrounds is close to City Hall, and midway to Orchard Road. The charm of Bencoolen isn't immediately apparent, but it is an upcoming neighbourhood with some gems.