When the British ruled Singapore they divided the Indians, Chinese and Malays into 'ethnic quarters' -- today's Little India, the successor to the former Indian ethnic quarter of Chulia Kampong, has served the Indian community as the site of their temples, classical Indian music and dance centres, and restaurants for many years.

Although Singapore today is a multicultural nation without the ethnic segregation of the past, Little India remains the gathering point not only for Singapore's Indian community -- thousands of newly arrived South Asians from India, Bangladesh and Nepal, mostly temporary workers employed in construction, call this their home away from home each Sunday. This little slice of Singapore is a fascinating mosaic of South Asia's sights, colours and sounds.

Excellent restaurants abound featuring the best of each Indian regional cuisine. Whether you're after intricate saris, ayurvedic medicines or ornate tablas, you can find it here. With Hindi, Punjabi, Tamil, Bengali, Nepali and other South Asian regional languages spoken, flower garlands, incense sticks and fresh young coconuts on sale by the streets, if you don't have the time to visit India this is a great place to immerse yourself in an authentic version of the real thing. Keep your eyes peeled for the Indian astrologer with his parrot and a deck of cards -- the vanishing ancient art of Indian parrot astrology is still alive in the streets of Little India, Singapore.

In January or February each year the district comes to life with the Thaipusam festival, commemorating the birthday of Lord Murugan, the Hindu deity popular among South Indians. Devotees undertake a pilgrimage along a route performing acts of devotion: some carry pots of milk or baskets of fruits, but the highlight of the event are those devotees who carry large, ornate kavadis which pierce their chest and backs, while spears slice across their cheeks -- and that's after walking on hot coals, barefoot. Little India lights up with bright colours in October or November, when Deepavali, 'the festival of lights', celebrates the triumph of good over evil.

Orientation
Little India is a loose collection of streets and back alleys centred around the thoroughfare of north-running Serangoon Road. The southern limits of Little India are Tekka Centre and Little India MRT station, and Mustafa Centre and Farrer Park MRT station to the north. Taking the exit to Tekka Centre and Buffalo Road from Little India MRT station will take you past vegetable shops, Indian music shops and beauty salons along Buffalo Road. Race Course Road nearby has a collection of good restaurants.

The Little India Arcade along Serangoon Road has a variety of shops of interest: handicraft shops, Indian classical music centres, religious altar makers and a small shop specialising in Indian sweets. The backpacker quarter is concentrated in Dunlop Street, an area in the southern part of Little India near the Arcade. Some of Singapore's budget accommodations are neighbours with Australian bars and Indian grocers and restaurants. The understated Abdul Gafoor mosque on Dunlop Street, with hints of Moorish architecture and a beautiful chandelier, is a little-known gem. The intricate Sri Srinivasa Perumal and Sri Veeramakaliamman temples along Serangoon Road are not to be missed, especially during the morning and evening poojas (prayers).

The renowned Mustafa Centre, the best place to go for moneychangers, travel deals and travel necessities, is open around the clock and found near Farrer Park MRT station. The streets surrounding Mustafa Centre don't get much airtime in guidebooks (or even from the locals) but there are some great finds: Little Africa on Sam Leong Road (CLE Restaurant is the gathering place for many Africans in Singapore), and the Heng Hwa (a Chinese regional minority, known for their seafood) restaurants along Kitchener Road.

Internet cafes of varying quality are concentrated in Dunlop Street and along Serangoon Road. The handful of telecommunications shops with the 'STD/ISD' signs offer discounted long distance phone calls without the need for phone cards or mobile phones.