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Ayutthaya

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A Thai homestay in Ayutthaya
Ayutthaya temple tour

Set at the conjunction of the Lopburi, Prasak and Chao Phraya Rivers, the beautiful city of Ayutthaya was founded in 1350 by King U-Thong and was the capital of what was then known as Siam.

Over the next 417 years it was ruled by 33 kings and repelled 23 Burmese invasions, before the Burmese finally succeeded in razing it to the ground. At its height, Ayutthaya was surrounded by a 12-kilometre-long wall which was five metres thick and six metres high and boasted 99 gates, brick and clay roads and canals to transport water into the city.

By all reports Ayutthaya was stunning and rivalled most European capitals of the time and portions of this grandiose past can be re-experienced through its ruins scattered throughout the province, but for the relics and records from this period, the Burmese obliterated almost everything in 1767 -- even melting Buddha images down for their gold.

More recently, Ayutthaya briefly grabbed international headlines in 2003 when alleged Jemaah Islamiyah terrorist Hambali was captured on the outskirts of town.

The ruins can be explored by bicycle in a day or two, and although there is little else to see many travellers decide to chill out here at the end of their trip, exploring the quieter nooks and crannies to be found in preference to the chaos of Bangkok.


That said, if you have to choose between seeing the historical parks here or in the other ancient capital Sukhothai, the latter is probably the better choice.

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Like Sukhothai, Ayutthaya was a Siamese capital in days long gone, but unlike better preserved Sukhothai, the modern and the ancient have been allowed to meld in Ayutthaya, resulting in an intertangled morass of modern concrete egg-cartons overlooking historic ruins. Walking around Ayutthaya seems like a good idea -- it's not. The best way to explore is by bicycle, with tuk tuk or motorcycle running a distant second and third.

Start early -- really early -- to avoid the worst of the midday heat (Ayutthaya can be positively scorching) and you'll also see the temples in a better light. Come lunchtime, take a dive into a museum or a cafe and wait out the heat before striking out again. In the late afternoon the light really turns it on for pictures, and the temperatures slowly drop to something more bearable.

In the evening, some of the central monuments are floodlit so it is worth making another trip out to see them dressed up in these colourful albeit artificial hues.

All templed out? Consider a homestay at Ban Lan Khe. And talking about accommodation, in Ayutthaya, look no further than Baan Lotus.



Text and/or map last updated on 1st October, 2010.

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