Set at the conjunction of the Lopburi, Prasak and Chao Phraya Rivers, the beautiful city of Ayutthaya was founded in 1350 by King U-Thong and was the capital of what was then known as Siam.

Over the next 417 years it was ruled by 33 kings and repelled 23 Burmese invasions, before the Burmese finally succeeded in razing it to the ground. At its height, Ayutthaya was surrounded by a 12-kilometre-long wall which was five metres thick and six metres high and boasted 99 gates, brick and clay roads and canals to transport water into the city.

By all reports Ayutthaya was stunning and rivalled most European capitals of the time and portions of this grandiose past can be re-experienced through its ruins scattered throughout the province, but for the relics and records from this period, the Burmese obliterated almost everything in 1767 -- even melting Buddha images down for their gold.

More recently, Ayutthaya briefly grabbed international headlines in 2003 when alleged Jemaah Islamiyah terrorist Hambali was captured on the outskirts of town.

The ruins can be explored by bicycle in a day or two, and although there is little else to see many travellers decide to chill out here at the end of their trip, exploring the quieter nooks and crannies to be found in preference to the chaos of Bangkok. That said, if you have to choose between seeing the historical parks here or in the other ancient capital Sukhothai, the latter is probably the better choice.

Orientation
Most of Ayutthaya's attractions are based on or around the main island. As these are fairly spread out it makes sense to hire a bicycle 50B or moped 150B for the day, available at most guesthouses. Tuk-tuk drivers will also be lurking for business.

A good choice for the first port of call is the tourist information centre located in a massive white building at the end western end of Rotchana Rd. Here you can get a decent map, pick the brains of the friendly staff and absorb the multimedia show and displays upstairs giving all the background information on the town. There is also a call centre with longer opening hours available.

Banks with currency exchange facilities and 24-hour ATM's are located at the eastern end of Naresuan Rd, just around the corner from most of the backpacker accommodation. If you need to change money on the weekend, head to Wiharn Phra Mongkon Bopit. Siam City Bank operates a mobile currency exchange service from a van parked in the carpark at the back of the temple, It may sound dodgy, but the rates are the same as other banks.

Internet is available at most guesthouses and is also dotted around the town for 30B/hour.

The post office, located on U-Thong Road to the north of the main backpacker area, offers the usual services and Western Union money transfer should funds be running low.

Ayutthaya hospital is located on the corner of Si Sanphet Rd and U-Thong Rd.

The tourist police who speak English, are there to deal with crime and any other problems you may encounter as a tourist. The main station is on Si Sanphet Rd next door to the tourist information centre. There is also a booth at the entrance gate of Wiharn Phra Mongkon Bopit.

Opticians, camera shops, and a department store are located near to the banks on Naresuan Rd, along with Chao Phrom market, which offers a vibrant taste of thai life.

Ayutthaya hospital: Corner of Si Sanphet Rd and U-Thong Rd, Ayutthaya. T: Emergency dial 1669; or (035) 21 1888.
Kasikorn Bank: 6/24 M4 Naresuan Rd, Ayutthaya. T: Call centre 02 888 8888. Hours:Mon-Fri 08:30 to 15:30.
Post office: J123 Uthong Rd, Ayutthaya. T: (035) 25 2296. Hours: Mon-Fri 08:30 to 16:30, Sat 09:00 to 12:00.
Siam Commercial Bank: C.9 M3 Naresuan Rd, Ayutthaya. T: (035) 21 1530. Hours:Mon-Fri 08:30 to 15:30.
TAT tourist information centre: Si Sanphet Rd, Ayutthaya. T: Call centre 1672 (08:00 to 20:00); or (035) 32 2730. Hours: 08:30 to 16:30 Daily
Tourist police: Si Sanphet Rd, Ayutthaya. T: Hotline 1155; or (035) 24 1446.