Chinatown and Pahurat
Travel Guide
Created in 1782 when a large Chinese population was moved here from Ko Rattanakosin to make way for the seat of government, Bangkok's Chinatown is today colourfully chaotic and clogged with pedestrians, shoppers and vendors exchanging gold or selling textiles, car parts, coffins, electronics, nuts and bolts, shark fins, traditional medicine, tea and a huge variety of food. It's a serious whirl of activity and those averse to large crowds and congested alleys may want to give Chinatown a miss completely as the area can quickly become exhausting to navigate, with few spots to rest in the heat.
Avoid traipsing around in the middle of the day, when the crowds are thickest, the traffic dreadful and the heat frankly unbearable. Before 9am is the best time for seeing Chinatown's wet markets, which are worth a look in for the wriggly-things enthusiast, while retail shops open a little later.
The most promoted section of Chinatown is Samphaeng Lane, a narrow alley where pedestrians get whacked in their Achilles heels by take-no-prisoners trolleymen as they duck in and out of stores selling absurd hairbands and Hello Kitty paraphernalia. But if you have the energy, explore the other little streets crisscrossing Chinatown, including stretches north of the key road, Yaowarat, not to mention Yaowarat Road itself. And don't forget to look up! A lot of interesting architecture remains in this part of town, including glorious shopfronts that are easily missed if you're simply staring in shop windows (or watching out for your Achilles) and not intermittently looking skyward.
At the end of Samphaeng Lane lies Pahurat, or Little India, with a great array of vibrant Indian fabrics, pungent spices, foods, jewellery, incense and DVDs for sale. This is home to a large number of Bangkok's Indian community, which is mostly Sikh.
A handful of atmospheric and historic temples still actively used can be found down various sidestreets in Chinatown and Little India and you can drop in to get a flavour of life among the communities here. Do observe the usual etiquette and niceties and ask before snapping that perfect swirling incense shot.
After 7pm, Yaowarat explodes with cheap streetside eateries, including excellent seafood stalls that are worth travelling across town for. You'll gulp quite a bit of exhaust with your meal, but those Mercedes aren't queuing up for takeaway for nothing.
A short tuk tuk ride away is Pak Khlong Talaat, or the Flower Market, a Travelfish must-see. Head here after 10 pm to see truckloads of fresh orchids, roses and other flowers being offloaded, all displayed under naked yellow bulbs: both photogenic and fragrant.
During the vegetarian festival, Chinatown is particularly lively and of course a great spot to go wild enjoying fabulous vegetarian food. The rest of the year, critters rule here though some streetside stalls will still cater to vegetarians. And there are always the fruit vendors, hawking their watermelons, pineapples, green mangoes and seemingly quite a few extras in this part of town.
Check Chinatown and Pahurat hotel rates on Agoda. Best price guarantee!
Accommodation: Chinatown/Pahurat General
Chinatown Hotel |
River View Guest House |
Shanghai Mansion Bangkok |
Accommodation: Hualamphong train station
Sri Hualamphong Hotel |
Station Hotel |
The Train Inn |
Text and/or map last updated on 14th July, 2012.
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Chinatown and Pahurat reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
Great area
I visited the Phahurat area a number of times in April and September 2012. There are many Indians, Burmese, etc. in this area - I was approached by a number of people offering to help me out, suggest good restaurants, etc. There are several fantastic Indian restaurants, clearly authentic due to the primarily South Asian clientele - Royal India and Shere e Punjab (both across the street from the Indian Emporium with the Bangkok Bank. There's also good shopping in many Indian-owned shops, plus some great Indian sweets. I can also recommend the Candy Inn (02-2230182) as a budget-ish area (300 to 600 Baht, the latter on a lower floor and with A/C and TV)
To reach this area you can take Bus 40 from Hua Lamphong train station, get off at Phahurat (the bus attendant will help you, it's about a 5 minute ride), and walk one block north of where they let you out. Highly recommended; this area sees enough western travelers to provide us with good service (such as the delicious fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice) while not enough to be over-touristed, like Khao San Road or other areas. They also have betel nut stands in the area, run by Myanmar natives, but they don't want you to spit on the ground here, unlike Myanmar. Hope you enjoy this unique area of Bangkok.
By squarethecircle (dabbler)
Written on 5th September, 2012 after a visit to Chinatown and Pahurat in September, 2012
Also reviewed by squarethecircle: Mae Sai, Pattani, Yala,