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Khao San Road

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Despite it being one of the least Thai-like places in the kingdom, the vast majority of Bangkok's independent travellers head straight into neon-lit, pumping and thumping Khao San Road to find a room. It's a backpacker ghetto of Disneyesque proportions, originally projected into fame by pot-smoking hippies ambling their way along the four Ks of Kabul, Kathmandu, KSR and Kuta. Despite its complete transformation since then, it has stayed alive in traveller imaginations, fired partly due to Leonardo DiCaprio and his role in the rather lacklustre film The Beach.

Situated in the heart of Bangkok on the northern edge of Ko Rattanakosin, Bangkok's Old City, Khao San is a hub of somewhat crazed activity. It's home to budget guesthouses rubbing shoulders with new, brashly upmarket hotels, dusty silvershops, stalls selling fisherman's pants and compasses, pad thai vendors, a fastfood joint or two and the occasional elephant.

Travel agencies here will accommodate any imaginable travel need, while streetside bars will serve up cheap beer until the early hours. It's heaven for many and hell for a few. Plenty of travellers stay for a lot longer than they originally plan, enjoying the whole friendly I'm-a-traveller-not-a-tourist scene, cheap massage and great food. The street, by the way, is a lot shorter than any apocryphal tales you've heard might suggest.

Due to the incredible demand for rooms in this area, Khao San has literally split at the seams and guesthouses have now sprung up within a kilometre-wide radius. The further you move from the road, the better, cheaper and quieter your guesthouse is likely to be, perhaps with more of a local flavour.

For those who do want to be within easy walking distance of KSR but don't want to deal with the madness, west Banglamphu is your best bet. If you don't mind a bit of walking though, the National Library area is superior in terms of tranquility and guesthouse quality.


If you find the choice a bit intimidating, read our feature, What is a good guesthouse in Bangkok?

Though we understand that you might not really feel you've "done" Bangkok unless you've stayed here, there are other areas in Bangkok these days that have some fantastic guesthouses and all the services a traveller needs -- just without the hazy history. Do consider them as well.

Related reading

Brilliant Bangkok
Exploring the Lungs of Bangkok
The changing face of Khao San Road
2005 Top guesthouses in Bangkok
Lonely Planet Thailand 12
Check Khao San Road hotel rates on Agoda. Best price guarantee!



Text and/or map last updated on 3rd July, 2010.

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