Khao San Road
Travel Guide
Fifty years ago, Khao San Road was known locally as a good place to buy rice. Today, it's the most famous backpacker ghetto in the world.
This notorious strip of cheap digs and bars was originally projected into fame by pot-smoking hippies ambling their way along the four Ks of Kabul, Kathmandu, KSR and Kuta back in the 1970s. Despite its complete transformation since then, Khao San's exotic allure has stayed alive in traveller imaginations, fired partly by the decent book-turned-rather-lacklustre-film, The Beach.
Modern Khao San is a hub of somewhat crazed activity that reminds us of the scene at a free-flowing music festival, but with a lot of tuk tuks. It's home to dizzying neon lights, dusty silver shops, persistent touts, stalls selling everything from tie-dyed tank tops to fake Harvard masters degrees, ubiquitous pad Thai and fried bug carts, rowdy bucket bars, tattoo parlours that make a killing off people coming from the rowdy bucket bars, a fastfood joint or two and the occasional Thai granny who shakes her head at the hippies while remembering when it was still a quaint little rice-selling community. Khao San is heaven for some and hell for a few, but it's worth a stroll at least once in a lifetime.
It would however be unfair to label this whole area as a backpacker ghetto. Khao San Road itself is a fairly short street situated within walking distance of Ko Rattanakosin in the heart of the old city, known as Banglamphu. Although budget guesthouses and increasingly more upmarket hotels stretch outwards from Khao San for quite a way, the surrounding area is still one of the most charming and historic in the city.
Running parallel just north of Khao San Road and continuing across Chakrabongse Road to the west is Soi Rambutri, which was the first neighbourhood street to be gobbled up by the backpacker craze and now feels like Khao San-lite. Beyond that, Phra Athit Road runs along the river and hosts artsy cafes and bars, laidback guesthouses and some fantastic hole-in-the-wall eateries. North of Khao San you'll find a similarly low-key atmosphere amid the old city streets that meander up towards Dusit.
A stone's throw to the south of Khao San is one of Bangkok's other most famous roads, Ratchadamnoen, which was built by King Rama V in 1899 to connect the Grand Palace to Dusit Palace. In a roundabout at the centre of this 10-lane road and not far from Khao San is Democracy Monument, an imposing symbol of Thailand's switch to a constitutional monarchy in the 1930s that has since become more symbolic of the Thai people's struggle for democracy. Pro-democracy Thai demonstrators perished here at the hands of Thai military in 1973, 1992 and 2010.
South and east of Ratchadamnoen are several canals that mingle with centuries-old streets like Dinso, Bamrung Mueang and Tanao, and major historical landmarks like the Golden Mount and Giant Swing. Many of these old roads are lined with attractive two-storey heritage shophouses which are often still devoted to a single trade or product, such as wooden furniture or temple supplies. Don't settle for overpriced, watered down Thai food on Khao San; some of the best food in Bangkok can be scored from simple shops and street carts on Banglamphu streets like these.
As for Khao San Road itself, many choose to stay here simply due to convenience. Travel agencies will accommodate any imaginable need and it couldn't be easier to find internet, laundry and cheap beer. Plenty of travellers stay for a lot longer than originally planned, enjoying the whole "I'm-a-traveller-not-a-tourist" scene. If you're young, on a budget and looking to mingle with other backpackers, staying around Khao San at least once is a no-brainer (just keep an eye out for scams). But keep in mind that there are other parts of Bangkok that have some fantastic guesthouses and all the services a traveller needs.
One more point to consider before committing to Khao San: while not far from most of Bangkok's most popular tourist sites, this area is several kilometres from the nearest BTS (sky train) and MRT (subway) stations. A Chao Phraya express boat pier and canal boat taxi pier are both within walking distance, but most who stay at Khao San rely on tuk tuks and taxis to get around.
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Check Khao San Road hotel rates on Agoda. Best price guarantee!
Accommodation: Khao San Road
Buddy Lodge |
Budget Guesthouse |
Chada Guesthouse |
D&D Inn |
Dang Derm |
Khaosan Park Resort |
Lek Guest House |
Mom Guesthouse |
New Joe Guesthouse |
Rikka Inn |
Sawasdee Banglampu Inn |
Sawasdee Khaosan Inn |
Accommodation: West Banglamphu
Apple 2 Guest House |
Baan Sabai |
Bhiman Inn Hotel |
Erawan House |
Four Sons Village |
Lamphu House |
Mango Lagoon Place |
Merry V Guest House |
New Merry V Guest House |
New Siam II Guest House |
O Bangkok |
Rambuttri Village |
Sam Sen Sam Boutique House |
Accommodation: East Banglamphu
At Home Guesthouse |
New Central Guest House |
Accommodation: Soi Rambutri and around
Fortville Guesthouse |
NapPark Hostel |
Old Bangkok Inn |
Pannee House |
Sakul House |
Sleep WithInn |
Viengtai Hotel |
Villa Cha Cha |
Accommodation: National Library and around
Baan Chantra |
Boworn B.B. Guesthouse |
Diamond House |
Lamphu Tree House |
Phra Nakorn Norn Len |
Sawatdee Guest House |
Shanti Lodge |
Sri-Ayuttaya Guest House |
Tavee House |
Thai Cozy House |
Accommodation: Riverfront
Chakrabongse Villas |
Navalai River Resort |
New Siam Riverside |
Text and/or map last updated on 23rd May, 2013.
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The above are all within 200km of Khao San Road.
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Khao San Road reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
Khao San Rd.
Good place when you stay arround the temple for visiting!
- Pra Sumen Fort
- Thammarat University
- Chao Prya River
- Grand Palace
- Wat Arun
- Wat Po
and many more...
By Buddy71 (dabbler)
Written on 12th December, 2012 after a visit to Khao San Road in October, 2012
It's okay, but....
It's a crazy place, that's for sure.
Yes, it's a good intro to Thailand, esp. for a first time traveller, with some of the comforts of home, but on the other hand, it's full of scam bus tickets and way, way, over priced goods.
Would you buy only half a plate of Phat Thai for 40 baht, I wouldn't, 25 yes, but 40!
If you like a beer, then yes, perfect place, more******artists, Thai and foreigners than you could shake a stick at.
The side sois are nice, bit more chilled, and the nearby temple offers some respite from the crowded and noisy area, and the food, though expensive, is nice, wide variety of cuisines from around the world. Soshana restaurant is nearby the police station, and serves very nice Israeli/Middle Eastern food.
Don't take a taxi nearby, invariably you won't get a driver who wants to use the meter.
By bedu (dabbler)
Written on 21st April, 2010 after a visit to Khao San Road in December, 2009
Also reviewed by bedu: Nonthaburi,
What a trip
I had no idea what to expect; a few tourists, some pad thai, maybe some cheap clothing on the sidewalks, sure. But nothing could have prepared me for Khao San Road. What seemed like (and very well could have been) thousands of tourists crowding the streets, incessant aromas of fried crickets and spring rolls, dreadlocked Europeans, and sweltering heat.
Only after my second and third visit to Khao San on my trip was I able to fend off salivating tuk-tuk drivers desperate for a fare to his friend's back-alley ping pong show. "Free tuk-tuk" trips around the city only make my eyes roll now -- I've sat through more than my fare share of suit-shop shpeels as well.
Advice: shop around! I paid 1200 baht for a ticket to Koh Tao my first go, and then, at the end of my trip, paid only 450. A great place for beginners, nonetheless, and I ended up making a friendship on Khao San that has lasted ever since.
By UpwardSpiral (dabbler)
Written on 6th March, 2010 after a visit to Khao San Road in July, 2009
Khao San Road is the scam central of Bangkok!
Having been to Khao San many times as a tourist, a backpacker and also as a resident of Bangkok on a couple of occasions I have a different view of the area to a lot of people who just pass trough or spend a couple of nights there.
For first-time tourists to Thailand or longer-term backpackers that don't know much about Bangkok or Thai culture it might seem like a great place, but anyone that has visited this area more than a handful of times will probably have a different opinion.
On my last trip to Thailand when I took my parents I even skipped Khao San Road altogether. It's nothing special, a quick stroll down might be OK just to see it, but after that I'd rather be somewhere else! If you travel halfway around the world to see a load of drunken westerners it might be an ideal area for you to hangout.
A backpacker ghetto it is, a place of good service it is not!
Honestly, the way that most of the Thai people working around here treat foreigners is disgusting. Equally, the way a lot of foreigners behave around here is also truly atrocious!! Some of the things I have seen in Khao San Road have -- at the time -- made me feel embarrassed to be a westerner. Some of the tourists/backpackers attitudes and total disregard for local culture is shocking. Maybe it's that they don't know about the Thai culture -- which is extremely different from ours -- or maybe they just don't care. It doesn't take too much effort to do a little research of the country before you go and it will make your experience much better if you do.
If it's not the touts constantly trying to scam you, or the market people trying to sell you things for a (usually) much more expensive price than many, many other places in Bangkok, it will be one of the other various scam that will get you!
Most of the hotels here are cheap but not very nice. I have stayed in some truly awful, low budget rooms here and it's worth paying a bit more and getting the best you can afford. I have stayed in a few hotels in Khao San over the years and also looked at many more or been in others with friends staying there but I'm not going to recommend any of them!
A lot of the food isn't that great around Khao San either, its usually made very quick and to 'westerners tastes' which is a shame because it's usually the first place many people taste Thai food in Thailand. But that's not to say that it's all bad. I can recommend The Lat Na in Buddy Beer Bar (was good in 2007 anyway) and I've had some good chicken and cashew nuts from the Sawasdee Banglampu Inn. You will see loads of people walking around eating pad thai but please, try some other Thai food as there are so many really nice dishes. I can recommend Pad Gra Pao Moo (thai basil with pork), gaeng keow wan wai or gaeng pet gai (green or red curry with chicken), lat na (thick noodle in gravy) or tom yam talay (the famous hot & sour soup but with mixed seafood instead of the usual prawns).
At the western end of Khao San Road (opposite end to Burger King) is a much quieter area around Soi Rambutti, This is where I might go for a drink if I'm in Bangkok and find myself in this neck of the woods. There's a good little restaurant near the police station end of the soi (about halfway down) called something like Thai Garden, it's a basic set up with some picnic-bench style seats. The food in here has been good before and the service is (usually) a bit better than a lot of places.
I can understand why a lot of backpackers like this area, I think it's because of the cheap accommodation and food and they probably feel safe in their numbers but as I said before, the service around Khao San Road is usually really bad and I can understand why, I just don't like to experience that service myself. If you go there first don't let it put you off Thailand because the country (and people) really aren't like this. This is a major tourist trap and travellers should be wary of everyone from tuk-tuk's and taxi drivers to Thai girls and other travellers they meet.
TIP:
Never get a tour bus from Khao San Road such as the bus to Cambodia. I've had first hand experience of the scams/cons and I know other people that have had the same bad experiences. There are plenty of other ways to get around Thailand, like the government buses or flying with Air Asia (cheap flights). The Thais use the government buses too and none use the tour agents from Khao San Road so go figure. Basically, when in Thailand just look what the Thais are doing -- If a restaurant is full of Thais it should be ok. If they are travelling by it, it should be ok. If a place is full of tourist it will be expensive or just not very good.
By Jon_Mak_Mak (dabbler)
Written on 23rd May, 2009 after a visit to Khao San Road in February, 2007
Also reviewed by Jon_Mak_Mak: Ayutthaya,