Ratchaburi (also known as Ratburi) isn't what you'd call a potpourri of tourist delights, but it's a good base for exploring the region's nooks and crannies. The city radiates south from the Mae Khlong River, and while the riverbank looked like an enormous drain on our last visit, there are plans afoot to develop a landscaped boardwalk in the area. Though it's quite a large city of 93,000 people, it's off the regular trail so don't be surprised if you're the only outlander you see during your stay.

Ratchaburi lept onto international headlines in January 2000, when it attracted the unwanted attention of a group of Burmese rebels from the God's Army group. The rebels crossed the border, stormed Ratchaburi Hospital and took about 500 patients and staff hostage. The Thai authorities, wanting to take a strong stance, attacked the compound, killing nine of the rebels. It subsequently emerged that some of the rebels had had their hands tied behind their back before being executed with a shot to the back of the head. Despite the extrajudicial killings, the Thai government garnered tremendous domestic support for its actions. To understand why is to undstand the intensity of the centuries-old animosity between these two neighbours.

You can visit the Damnoen Saduak floating market from Ratchaburi, although you're better off staying in nearby Damnoen Saduak as you'll get to the market even earlier and beat the crowds.

Ratchaburi is around 70km north of Phetburi, a bit over 40km south of Nakhon Pathom and around 101km from Bangkok.