Lopburi

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Lopburi

The city of Lopburi has made its way into the Thai history books on numerous occasions. The Khmer empire got their hands on it during the tenth century and held power in the region till the mid-thirteenth century, when the Thais clinched it. Many of the ancient ruins in and around Lopburi possess distinctly Khmer and Hindu characteristics, although over time many have been transformed into Buddhist monuments.

Lopburi made the news again in 1664 when King Narai made it the second capital after Ayutthaya. At that time the French were roaming around and this influence can be seen, however slight, in some of the buildings in the provincial capital.

Be warned: monkeys seem to have taken complete possession of some of the ruins, and they will want your bag, sunglasses, cap and lunch before allowing you a roam around. If you have a simian phobia, strike Lopburi off your list. The numbers do seem to have declined slightly in recent years, but enough still prance around to frighten unsuspecting tourists.

The town is split into old and new quarters. The old quarter sprawls out from the train station, while the new quarter lies a few kilometres to the east and is centred around a massive roundabout, near the bus station.

The main sights are all within walking distance of Lopburi train station. The one outlying site is Wat Phra Phutthabat which, while actually in Saraburi province, is usually visited from Lopburi. Few travellers stray further afield in Lopburi. You can actually cover the highlights within just a few hours.

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Our recommendations

As a result of a bad experience involving India and monkeys, Lopburi isn't one of our favourite towns in Thailand. It is absolutely overrun with monkeys. OVERRUN with monkeys. So if you're a bit of a chicken when it comes to our furry cousins (or they tried to break into your room once too), we'd suggest viewing Lopburi from a passing train.

For those not bothered by cavorting, thieving, cheeky, barebummed simians, Lopburi is worth a few hours to explore the ruins. Historically, Lopburi played quite an important role in then-Siam's foreign relations, but today of interest are only the ruins (and the monkeys).

If you're going to either Sukhothai or Ayutthaya you'll probably find either of those destinations better value, but if you do decide to swing by (he he), all Lopburi has to see can be covered between the morning and afternoon trains -- so arrive on a morning train from Bangkok and get the afternoon (night) train onwards to Chiang Mai. The station staff will let you store your bags there if you ask nicely.

And before you ask: We've no idea why Lopburi is overrun with monkeys.

Accommodation: Overview
Lopburi Asia Hotel | Nett Hotel | The Lopburi City Hotel |

Text and/or map last updated on 11th August, 2009.

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Lopburi reviews

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A Happy Place to Recover from Jet Lag

We picked Lop Buri as our first stop out of Bangkok this trip. It really can't compete with Ayutthaya, but we've been to Ayutthaya many times and were keen to try something different.

Lop Buri is a good spot, with mostly Thai tourists and very few backpackers. It's only three hours from Bangkok by train (3rd class - 28 baht), and if you need to get to/from the new bus station to the city center, there are frequent buses for about 10 baht.

Perhaps the best part of Lop Buri is that everything is well within walking distance from the train station. We stayed at the Nett Hotel, which was a clean, friendly choice with good value and only a short walk from the train station, but there is also the relatively new Noom Guest House which is even closer to the train and clearly aiming for the backpacker crowd. They do western breakfasts and set up a bar for evening fun too.

Perhaps the worst part of Lop Buri are the monkeys. I know some people get a kick out of the furry beasts, but I'm not a fan. They particularly inhabit a few of the older temple ruins and the traffic circle right in town, and you'll see them hanging from wires and window sills all over. Fortunately, they seem much better behaved now than before.

Food choices are great, with a good variety of dishes at the night market (30-40 baht). There is no shortage of fried rice stands and noodle shops all over town, and some even have English menus.

Stop by Big Bowl just inside the gates at the sports park for a cheap and delicious snack, and definitely pick up your breakfast at Coffee House, with its coffees from around the world and 20 baht expresso.

The Phra Narai museum is has a variety of well-done exibits on early Thai history and culture and is worth a few hours, but is a bit pricey at 150 baht entry fee.

Internet is plentiful and available for as little as 10 baht per hour.

If you are just making a day trip stopover in Lop Buri, the new Arphaphon Massage just south and east of the monkey circle offers shower service for just 50 baht.
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By exacto (dabbler)
Written on 8th December, 2009 after a visit to Lopburi in November, 2009

Also reviewed by exacto: Champasak, Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet, Ko Maak, Mukdahan, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai, Pakse, Phitsanulok, Savannakhet,

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