The tiny grey port town of Ban Phe sees a constant stream of visitors -- though that's only because it's a launchpad for nearby Ko Samet. Cooled by a sea breeze that smells slightly of drying fish, Ban Phe doesn't charm many visitors, and few people spend more than a mandatory 30 minutes or so waiting for a bus or ferry connection out.

There are a few places to eat, sleep and check your email, so don't panic if you get stranded. A number of businesses catering to travellers are clustered in the sois across from the pier. The first floor of the Tan Tan Too has an internet cafe, and Blue Sky Books across the street has a large selection of used titles -- perfect for snapping up something to read on the beach. Most travellers congregate next door at Christie's, a popular bar and restaurant.

Though nowhere near as inviting as the beaches awaiting on Ko Samet, exploring the town will show you life in a typical Thai port town. Head away from the bus station and the seashell stands and you'll get a different sense of Ban Phe -- the further you walk, the more interesting and local it becomes. Take a walk down the beach to the east of town if time allows -- it's a pleasant stretch of sand, and beats sitting in a traveller cafe waiting for your boat or bus connection.

Accommodation choices are limited, with most options staggered along the town's main drag, or on the sois around the pier. Should these options all be full by some bizarre circumstance, you can also rent a basic if slightly seedy room above one of the town's massage parlours. Your best choice among these is the friendly and relatively clean T.N. Place, located above the Hi-So Massage Parlour on Soi 3.

Ban Phe is also a popular way station for potential English teachers in Thailand, as the reputable TEFL International has a school here. For more info, or to arrange a tour, call them at (038) 652 280 or check http://www.teflintl.com.