Khlong Son

Set at the northern tip of Ko Chang, Khlong Son gets very low numbers of visitors with the bulk of the backpackers and tourists alike speeding south enroute to Ko Chang's finer and more popular stretches of sand.

At a glance it is fairly easy to understand why that is the case as the beach here, particularly at low tide when it runs out to mud flats, is not much chop at all. Not that that really matters anymore as the entire strip has been sold to a property developer to build luxury villas and condos -- yes, just what Ko Chang needs more of!

However, don't write off Khlong Son just yet -- as there is another, non beach reason for visiting here. That's right -- we're talking totally off the beach here.

Behind the bay and the fishing village lies Khlong Son valley which is home to the excellent Baan Kwan Chang elephant camp and the highly recommended Jungle Way Bungalows.

The former, is by all reports, the only elephant camp on Ko Chang worth visiting. It's a sanctuary rather than a more traditional camp, so the elephants don't "perform" unless they were previously trained how to do so, which is a nice touch. It offers half day elephant trekking tours during which you get to bathe and feed the elephant as well as ride on it.

The latter is an old-style jungle bungalow operation, which we've been a fan of since our first visit to Ko Chang many moons ago. Aside from being a chilled out place to stay, they also run a host of course -- reiki, massage, yoga, meditation, you name it -- and then can also organise trekking and boating trips. Note they're closed in the wet season between June and October.

For those who find Ko Chang a bit over the top and spoilt, Khlong Son is a reminder of how much of the island used to be.